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Skincare that promises the world then delivers zip is annoying at the best of times, but for those with acne, it's downright soul destroying. The good news is there are a whole host of clinically-proven ingredients that offer real results for acne-prone skin. You just need to know what they are…
According to the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD), acne is the most common skin condition in the US, affecting around 50 million Americans every year. And it’s not just teenagers who are plagued by breakouts. In fact, research shows that approximately 12 to 22 percent of adult women in the US suffer from acne in some form. Whether you're prone to blackheads, whiteheads, pimples or deep painful cysts, the fact is, acne sucks.
But what really causes acne? Well, it’s pretty simple actually: blocked pores. More to the point, acne is caused when an excess of sebum (oil) works with bacteria and dead skin cells to clog up your pores. If this pore remains closed, it’ll become a whitehead, whereas if it opens up, oil and dead skin cells oxidize and turn brown or black, making it a blackhead. Pimples and pustules, meanwhile, form slightly deeper under the surface of the skin which is why they become red and inflamed. All good fun – not.
Now we hate to be the bearer of bad news, but the main trigger of excess sebum production is kind of out of your control, and that’s family history – you can’t change your genetics, after all. Oil glands also become over-stimulated by stress and an imbalance of hormones, which is why puberty, pregnancy, menstruation and the menopause can all lead to flare-ups. Think you can find a miracle cure for acne? Yes, reducing your levels of stress will help and yes, a healthy diet is a great idea. But a miracle cure? Sorry, it’s simply not going to happen.
Treating and controlling your breakouts, however? Now that, you can do. Here’s how.
5 Of The Best Skincare Ingredients For Acne-Prone Skin
At-home skincare can be very effective for managing blackheads, whiteheads, pimples and pustules if you know what to embrace – and also what to avoid. Your first step is to look for products that are non-comedogenic which means they’re less likely to block your pores. You should also avoid rich, occlusive oils such as coconut, olive and avocado. Lighter oils like jojoba and grapeseed are less likely to cause problems and in fact some oils such as ylang ylang and lavender even have anti-inflammatory benefits, so don’t dismiss oils altogether. Just make smart choices and avoid the super-heavy ones.
Next up, look for these scientifically-proven ingredients in your skincare and remember, when trying any new treatment, always do a patch test first and give them a reasonable amount of time (at least four, but preferably eight weeks) to work.
1. Salicylic Acid
A highly researched beta hydroxy acid (BHA), salicylic acid is one of the most effective ingredients for acne-prone skin. Salicylic acid is an oil-soluble acid that works by breaking the bonds between skin cells to encourage the dead ones to fall off. Unlike alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) like lactic and glycolic, salicylic acid also targets oil blockages where it thins sebum, allowing it to flow more freely to the skin’s surface. This helps decrease excess oil, reduce inflammation and minimize enlarged pores which are three important skincare needs for anyone suffering with unwanted breakouts.
Tip: For the best, visible results, look for leave-on salicylic acid treatments that are formulated with a concentration of at least 2 percent – BTW, our Tea Tree Clear Skin Super Serum checks both of those boxes.
2. Benzoyl Peroxide
Benzoyl peroxide is a chemical compound that’s been used very successfully as an acne treatment for over 90 years. Similar to salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide has anti-inflammatory properties and its main job is to accelerate cell turnover while removing sebum and dead skin cells from your pores to help reduce blockages. It also has one other trick up its sleeve, however, and it’s a very important one: it totally destroys bacteria by releasing oxygen onto the skin. This makes it particularly effective for inflammatory acne such as pimples and pustules.
Tip: Benzoyl peroxide can bleach bed linen and clothing, so make sure you allow any leave-on treatment to fully dry before getting dressed or going to bed.
3. Retinol
While it’s most often thought of as an anti-aging ingredient, retinol should never be overlooked in the treatment of acne. And here’s why. Retinol is an over-the-counter derivative of vitamin A that, again, increases cell turnover, but in a very different way to salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide. The difference is that retinol attaches itself to nuclear receptors in the center of your cells which is where genetic information is stored and where major cellular functions are processed. Once attached to these receptors, retinol activates certain genes to accelerate cell turnover and therefore remove dead skin cells and keep the pores clear from debris. Smart cookie.
Tip: Retinol is a super-active ingredient, so start your usage slowly by applying it every two or three evenings to clean, dry skin. As you build tolerance, you can build up to a nightly routine.
4. Tea Tree Oil
Looking for an all-round antibacterial, antifungal, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial ingredient whose entire MO is to target your acne problems? Then tea tree oil could be exactly what you’re looking for. This essential oil has been used in traditional medicine practices for centuries and has been scientifically proven to treat and heal mild-to-moderate acne. In fact, one clinical study showed tea tree oil to be 3.5 times more effective at reducing acne lesions than a placebo after six weeks of use. Now, that’s the kind of stat we love. Tea tree oil is also less drying and irritating than salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide and retinol which makes it a great option for sensitive skin types.
Tip: Although rare, tea tree oil has been known to cause allergic contact dermatitis, so stick with diluted formulations like our Tea Tree Clear Skin Super Serum and always carry out a patch test first.
5. Activated Charcoal
Activated charcoal works by binding itself to nasty substances on the skin and whisking them clean away. Kind of how a sponge soaks up spillages. This is why charcoal is often used in medicine to remove dangerous ingested toxins such as poison. And why it’s such a great skincare ingredient for drawing bacteria, toxins, dirt and oils out from the skin – which as you know are the main causes of acne.
Activated charcoal is produced by burning a plant or animal product and then treating it to remove certain substances and increase its surface area. Don’t worry, however, we use activated coconut charcoal in our Skin Clearing Charcoal Face Wash. No animals were harmed in the process.
Tip: Activated charcoal is black (obvs), so be careful when using it near light clothing and face cloths as it may cause staining.
A Final Word On Professional Acne Treatments
If you want to hit acne from both sides, think about getting some regular professional treatments at the derm’s office. There are many awesome options for treating acne-prone skin that perfectly complement an effective at-home routine – think chemical peels, HydraFacials, light therapy, even steroid injections.
What works for some might not work for you, however, so always get a consultation first from a qualified expert.
Acne Fixes That Are Borderline Genius
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Now you have a solid grasp of AHAs and BHAs, it’s time to study up on one of our favorite skincare ingredients, the mighty MSM.
Skincare ingredients are not easy to decipher, we get that. Knowing your retinol from your tretinoin or understanding the difference between squalane and squalene? Minds constantly blown. And that’s OK, because this is why our blog exists, to educate and inform you of all the important stuff without hopefully coming across as too lecture-y. (Btw, please let us know if we’re doing a decent – or terrible – job of this. Full disclosure: we love hearing from our TruSkin family. Honestly.)
So, back to today’s 'fun' lesson in skincare: MSM.
Otherwise known as methylsulfonylmethane, MSM is an ingredient that’s regularly used in skincare, but often gets overshadowed by the likes of hyaluronic acid, vitamin C and glycolic acid. Don’t get us wrong, we’re big fans of these major players, but we do think their notoriety is kind of unfair to the rest. And especially to MSM. Why? Because MSM is a) effective b) versatile and c) very well tolerated by all skin types. Now we don't know about you, but we reckon this makes it just as worthy of A-list skincare status as all the other aforementioned big guns we know and love.
Here’s the lowdown.
What Is MSM?
Simply put, MSM is a naturally-occurring form of sulfur that’s present in every living thing. Sulfur is one of the most important elements in the human body and is often touted as the ‘beauty’ or ‘healing’ mineral because it not only promotes circulation and fights inflammation, but plays a key role in the production and composition of two essential skin proteins: collagen and keratin. MSM is not pure sulfur, but rather a sulfur compound (consisting of about 34 percent sulfur along with oxygen, carbon and hydrogen) and is vital for the healthy function of every cell, organ and tissue in your body.
Further to its use in skincare (more on that later), MSM has been used traditionally as a dietary supplement for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits. Research suggests that it may even help increase joint health and relieve inflammatory disorders like arthritis, cystitis and osteoporosis.
The Benefits Of MSM In Skincare
First let's talk about collagen: one of the building blocks of healthy, ageless skin. As as with all good things in life, your rate of natural collagen production decreases around your mid-30s. As this layer of collagen becomes thinner, the uppermost layer of your skin (the stratum corneum) starts to lose its firmness and bounce which is why, as you hit middle age, your skin becomes drier, saggier, less radiant and more wrinkled. The answer? Do everything you can to reduce this loss of collagen by staying out of the sun, eating a healthy diet and including clinically-proven, collagen-boosting skincare ingredients in your daily routine. Obvious contenders for the latter include retinol, peptides, vitamin C and hyaluronic acid, but MSM is also right up there. In fact, studies show that MSM can offer a significant improvement in wrinkles, firmness and skin elasticity.
As well as its collagen-boosting benefits, MSM works hard to fight environmental damage which often manifests itself in visible annoyances such as discoloration, fine lines and sagging. It does this by helping to increase your production of glutathione, one of the body’s most important, naturally-occurring antioxidants. MSM’s anti-inflammatory qualities also help decrease damage to the skin caused by other lifestyle baddies such as stress, lack of sleep and a cruddy diet. This makes it pretty hard to beat in the fight against extrinsic (lifestyle and environmental) aging. Just saying.
Finally, MSM has been shown to help the skin become more permeable which not only allows toxins to escape more easily (buh-bye clogged pores and pimples) but enhances your skin’s ability to absorb other active ingredients in your skincare products. This means all the good stuff in your regime can penetrate the skin quicker and deeper giving you much more bang for your skincare buck. Neat, huh?
How To Up Your MSM Game
You’ll find MSM in many TruSkin products such as our top-selling vitamin C range which includes Vitamin C Serum, Daily Facial Cleanser and C-Plus Super Serum. This is because vitamin C assists in the absorption of MSM so they make the perfect power couple.
Due its awesome anti-aging qualities, MSM has also been formulated in our Eye Cream and Eye Gel. As you all know, the skin around the eyes is super susceptible to the visible signs of aging. It's also very fragile which makes MSM the ideal ingredient for applying to the eye area.
Just remember, MSM is sometimes listed as dimethylsulfone or DMSO2 on skincare labels, so keep your eyes peeled for any of these terms when scouring your products’ ingredients lists.
What Is MSM In Skincare? Your Need-To-Know Guide Starts Here
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Skincare acronyms can be super confusing sometimes, but there are some terms you really should know about. Namely AHAs, BHAs and PHAs. Why? Because skincare acids could be just what your skincare routine has been waiting for.
Slapping acid on your face was probably not among the beauty tricks your beloved grandma told you about as a young girl. Cold cream, maybe. But skincare acids? We doubt that very much.
But the thing is, facial acids can help treat any number of skincare concerns including acne, scarring, pigmentation, dull skin, dryness, heck even fine lines and wrinkles. And while they used to be only available via chemical peels or professional facials, smaller concentrations of these little dreamboats are now widely available in skincare formulations.
So, while dear grandma’s secret to ageless skin might well have been her trusty cold cream, for you newer generations it’s all about the alpha, beta and polyhydroxy acids – or more simply put, AHAs, BHAs and PHAs.
Here’s what we know…
A Look At AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids)
Alpha hydroxy acids are water-soluble chemical compounds that can be naturally occurring or synthetically produced. Most AHAs are extracted from fruit or milk sugars and they’re used primarily in skincare for their exfoliation skills – which are top of the class, btw.
Unlike physical exfoliators like scrubs and loofahs which manually slough away dead skin cells, chemical exfoliators like AHAs work to dissolve the bonds between skin cells to encourage the dead, dull ones to fall off. This process helps accelerate cell regeneration for a smoother, brighter, more even complexion. The extent of exfoliation depends on the type of AHA used, as well as its pH and concentration (usually around 4 percent for at-home use and up to 70 percent for professional peels).
The Benefits Of AHAs
You know those pesky visible signs of aging that freak you out every time you look in the mirror? Well, fighting the likes of fine lines, wrinkles and discoloration is what AHAs live for.
As you get older, the rate in which your skin cells turn over slows down which means dead skin cells hang around for way too long on the surface of your skin. This causes dullness, unevenness, dryness and dehydration which can age you up way before your time. By encouraging fresh new skin to grow, however, AHAs help solve these skin woes.
Also, if you regularly incorporate an AHA into your routine – whether through monthly chemical peels at the doctor’s office or with at-home skincare – it will continue to encourage collagen and elastin production for a cumulative anti-aging effect. We’ll take a group hug for news like that.
The Main AHA Players
Glycolic acid is the most highly researched of all the AHAs and is known as the do-it-all acid. Derived from sugar cane, glycolic acid has a very low molecular weight which makes it darn good at its job – AKA penetrating the skin. It’s a very popular peeling agent because of its efficiency and potency, but while it's great for normal, oily and acne-prone skin types, it can sometimes be irritating for sensitive complexions.
This is where lactic acid comes into play. Lactic acid can be extracted from fermented milk sugars or vegan sources such as beets or tapioca and has a larger molecular size than its glycolic cousin. This means it doesn’t penetrate the skin quite as well, so it takes longer to take effect. Lactic acid is way gentler, however, and studies have shown that it can also have moisturizing benefits so is the safer bet for sensitive or dry skin types.
Our Eye Cream contains a clever blend of both glycolic and lactic acids
Next Up, We Have BHAs (beta hydroxy acids)
Just like AHAs, beta hydroxy acids work to increase cell regeneration through chemical rather than physical exfoliation. BHAs, however, are oil-soluble rather than water-soluble which means they not only accelerate cell turnover on the skin’s surface, but they also penetrate through the lipid layers between the skin cells to get deeper into your pores. This helps target and reduce excess sebum to clear as well as brighten the skin.
Again, the efficacy of any skincare formulation containing BHAs depends on its pH and concentration. In this case, anywhere between 0.5 and 5 percent should offer visible results.
The Benefits Of BHAs
BHAs are a massive deal for anyone struggling with oily, inflamed or spotty skin because they help reduce inflammation, fight bacteria and dry up excess oil.
While dry, aging or dehydrated skin types dream of upping their sebum levels, for those oily or combination types among you, an excessive amount of sebum is the devil. Super-oily skin often clogs the pores and can lead to, like, a gazillion problems (OK, so we exaggerate, but if you suffer with breakouts it often feels this way, right?).
The Main BHA Player
When it comes to BHAs, there’s only one player worth mentioning – mainly because it’s the only one used in cosmetics and dermatology, but still. This BHA, dear friends, is the mighty salicylic acid. Derived from the bark of willow trees and used to treat skin concerns for over 2,000 years, salicylic acid is found in thousands of acne-fighting treatments from cleansers and toners to serums and moisturizers. And the good news is, it works, without completely stripping the skin of moisture.
Not only does salicylic acid target pores and increase cell turnover, but it also has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties which is music to the ears of anyone who suffers with red, angry flare-ups.
C-Plus Super Serum contains just the right amount of salicylic acid
Finally, Don’t Forget PHAs (polyhydroxy acids)
While AHAs and BHAs have been around for years, PHAs are very much the NKOTB. Often seen as the underdogs of the hydroxy acids, PHAs are basically a new generation of water-soluble AHAs with all the exfoliating, cell regenerating benefits… but with less of the side-effects. The reason for their gentle nature? PHAs are formulated with multiple strands, so they have a larger molecular size than AHAs and are therefore unable to penetrate the deeper layers of your skin. Instead, they work exclusively on the skin’s surface to boost cell renewal without irritating your complexion.
The Benefits Of PHAs
PHAs are where to go if you’re concerned about the visible signs of aging but have super-sensitive skin – yes, even rosacea or atopic dermatitis. They might take a little longer to do their business, but if your skin flares up at even the thought of exfoliation, these are your guys. More good news for sensitive skin: PHAs have humectant and moisturizing qualities to help hydrate your skin and strengthen its natural protective barrier. As with all active ingredients, however, a patch test is still a good idea to triple-check for sensitivities.
The Main PHA Players
While a bit of a mouthful, gluconolactone (sometimes referred to as gluconic acid) is one PHA worth remembering – especially if you’re in the market for a mild exfoliation treatment for pigmentation issues like melasma and sun spots.
Lactobionic acid is another commonly used PHA which is an oxidized form of lactose and extracted from cow’s milk. Lactobionic acid has been shown to have antioxidant properties so it's a great choice for fighting the damaging effects of environmental stressors such as UV radiation and pollution.
One Last Word: Most skin acids make your skin more sensitive to the sun, so always apply a broad-spectrum SPF 30+ daily whenever using an AHA, BHA or PHA in your skincare routine.
The Lowdown On AHAs, BHAs and PHAs In Skincare
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As you probably know, we’re big fans of using natural ingredients like essential oils and plant extracts in our skincare formulations. How so? Because we believe Earth’s finest offerings are worth so much more to your skin than the alternatives…
Essential oils can be contentious ingredients in the beauty and wellness space, but we truly believe the pros of using essential oils in skincare far outweigh the cons. However, this is only if you know what you’re doing. Low concentrations, blended with care and attention into serums, moisturizers, toners and cleansers can not only have positive effects on your skin, but also your emotional wellbeing. Whereas pure, undiluted essential oils are highly potent and can produce all manner of adverse skin reactions.
So, if you ever fancy playing around with pure essential oils without doing a LOT of homework first, well, don’t.
Instead, let the reputable manufacturers do all the blending for you. Then you can make some executive EO (that’s essential oil, btw) decisions without worrying that your skin might break out quicker than you can say ‘pass the tea tree oil’.
Here’s what we know about the wonderful world of essential oils…
What Are Essential Oils?
Essential oils are highly concentrated plant extracts that contain volatile aromatic compounds and are obtained from either the flowers, fruits, leaves, roots, stems or even bark of a particular plant. They can be extracted by many different methods, but the most common way is through steam distillation.
According to the National Association for Holistic Aromatherapy (NAHA), an essential oil is defined by its chemical, physical, aromatic and spiritual make up and these are entirely dependent on the specific plant from which it was extracted.
There are around 300 essential oils used in aromatherapy across the world and it’s believed they’ve been harnessed by humans since around 4500BC when ancient Egyptians used them in cosmetics, fragrance and medicines. Many people swear by EOs for treating both emotional and physical health concerns such as stress, anxiety, pain and insomnia.
Why Essential Oils Are Important In Skincare
Because of their countless benefits for the skin, essential oils are used in a variety of skincare products and due to today’s consumers being way more interested in adopting a more natural beauty routine, their popularity continues to grow. Many oils have healing, toning, brightening and hydrating benefits and some even offer anti-inflammatory and antioxidant qualities. Aromatherapy skeptics often suggest that essential oils do more harm to your skin than good, yet countless studies suggest that when they’re diluted at safe levels, they have very little cause for concern.
But just because they’re natural, this doesn’t mean all EOs are good for your skin – and especially the delicate skin on your face. Certain oils like cinnamon and mint, for example, may help stimulate circulation when used in the correct concentration on your body, but they can be risky on your face and cause irritations or an allergic reaction.
This is why you should always read your skincare label carefully and contact the manufacturer if you have questions about their essential oil ingredients, processing and levels of concentration (around 1 percent is seen as the safest for most skin types, btw). Make sure to also perform a patch test with any new product, leaving it for at least 24 hours (preferably 48) to test for adverse reactions before applying it all over your face. In rare cases, a severe allergic reaction may occur so always seek advice and a diagnosis from a skincare expert or allergist if you have concerns.
8 Of Our Favorite Essential Oils For Your Skin
We truly believe blending and diluting essential oils is best left in the hands of the experts, but it’s still worth knowing the benefits some of the most common EOs have up their sleeves, right?
Here are some of our favorite essential oils here at TruSkin HQ.
1. Geranium
According to research, geranium EO is a real find for treating dry skin, reducing the visible signs of aging, calming inflammation and fighting infection. It also has anti-bacterial properties so is often used on acne-prone skin to keep pores clean and pimples at bay.
Find It In: Eye Cream, Hylauronic Acid Serum2. Helichrysum
The helichrysum italicum plant is most commonly found in southern Europe and the Mediterranean. Its oil has anti-inflammatory, anti-fungal and antibacterial properties and has long been used for treating inflammation and accelerating wound healing.
Find It In: Eye Cream3. Lavender
One of the most commonly used EOs in skincare and aromatherapy, lavender’s antiseptic and antibacterial qualities make it a hugely popular choice for reducing acne and soothing the skin. Lavender’s spa-like fragrance has also been proven to alleviate stress and calm both the body and mind.
Find It In: Charcoal Face Wash, C-Plus Super Serum, Tea Tree Clear Skin Super Serum4. Lemongrass
Lemongrass essential oil is a big player in the antioxidant world so it’s a neat ingredient for fighting free radicals and reducing the signs of premature aging. Lemongrass is also purifying, balancing, healing and has an awesome citrus fragrance that gives a lovely scent to skincare products.
Find It In: Eye Cream5. Pink Grapefruit
Brimming with vitamins A and C, pink grapefruit is another antioxidant-rich essential oil that’s fabulous for mature or dull skin. It contains lycopene which is a natural exfoliant and has a naturally uplifting scent that helps brighten and lift both your skin and your wellbeing.
Find It In: C-Plus Super Serum6. Rose
While the benefits of pure rose EO are never-ending (think moisturizing, regenerating, stress relieving and healing for starters), it takes around 250lb of rose petals to produce just 1oz of oil which makes it crazy expensive. Another by-product of the distillation process, however, is rose water which contains up to 20 percent of the water-soluble oils that get left behind after the distillation process. Rose water is a fabulous skin tonic and its anti-inflammatory properties are great for preventing pimples and reducing redness.
Find Rose Water In: Daily Facial Rose Water Toner7. Tea Tree
Due to its potent anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties, tea tree essential oil is a go-to for anyone suffering with acne, enlarged pores or super-oily skin. It may also help relieve itching and speed up the healing process, and it’s pretty well tolerated by most skin types.
Find It In: Tea Tree Clear Skin Super Serum, Vitamin C Daily Facial Cleanser8. Ylang Ylang
Ylang ylang essential oil is a very effective cleansing agent due to its anti-bacterial properties. It also helps balance oil production so, similar to tea tree EO, it's great for treating and helping reduce acne and other unwanted skin blemishes.
Find It In: Charcoal Face Wash, C-Plus Super Serum, Tea Tree Clear Skin Super SerumEverything You Need To Know About Essential Oils In Skincare
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Vitamin E is one of those skincare ingredients that’s been loved forever. A potent antioxidant and moisturizing master, here’s everything you need to know.
Don’t get us wrong, we’re all for trying out new ingredients in our skincare routines. But oftentimes, the oldies are the best. Take, vitamin E, for example. Used for over 50 years in cosmetics, vitamin E offers a whole bunch of benefits to the skin and for us, it’s up there with vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, retinol and, well, we could go on. But we won’t.
We’re sure you already have a little vitamin E in your daily regime, but how well do you know this unassuming but revered skincare ingredient? Not well at all? Then allow us to introduce you to everything vitamin E has to offer.
First Things First, What Is Vitamin E?
Vitamin E is a fat-soluble antioxidant that’s found naturally in your skin where it supports cell function and helps maintain the overall health of your skin. But guess what happens as you age? You’ll never gue… OK, you totally will because we know you’ve heard this one before. Yes, just like your natural levels of collagen, elastin, hyaluronic acid, ceramides and all the other good stuff found in your skin, vitamin E depletes with time. Age is, for sure, a vicious, vicious beast.
In better news, vitamin E can be found in various food sources including nuts, leafy green veggies, avocado, pumpkin, olive oil and sunflower oil, so try adding more of these into your diet to help keep your levels up.
It’s also produced synthetically and formulated very successfully in skincare products such as serums, oils and creams which is music to the ears of dry or aging skin. There are around eight difference forms of vitamin E, but the most common ones you’ll see on the labels of your products are tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate and alpha-tocopheryl acetate.
The Benefits Of Vitamin E In Skincare
1. Vitamin E Is A Highly Researched Antioxidant
Its powerful antioxidant properties make vitamin E one of the best ingredients for fighting those bad guys known as free radicals. Free radicals are unstable atoms produced by the skin when you subject it to too much heat, light, pollution or other nasties such as alcohol and a poor diet. In order to stabilize themselves, free radicals snatch electrons from vital skin components such as DNA, connective tissue, collagen and elastin, which damages them and accelerates premature skin aging such as fine lines, wrinkles, sagging, discoloration, the works. This is why we hate free radicals.
Antioxidants, on the other hand, are clever little cookies which offer up electrons to free radicals while maintaining their own stability. This means all the good stuff in your skin gets left alone to care, support, protect and heal your skin while the antioxidants do the hard graft in fighting those pesky free radicals. As we said, clever.
2. Vitamin E Helps Fight Sun Damage
When it comes to fighting the damaging effects of that great big ball of fire in the sky, its antioxidant powers aren’t the only thing going in vitamin E’s favor. Studies also suggest that vitamin E has photoprotective properties. What does that mean, we hear you ask? Simple, photoprotection = sun protection.
Anything that offers some kind of defense from UV damage comes under the photoprotection umbrella – think broad-rimmed hats, clothing and sunscreen. Oh, and vitamin E. Its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties are partly to thank for its photoprotective qualities, but research shows that vitamin E can also absorb some of the energy from UV light, further preventing UV damage and helping reduce the likes of sun-induced dark spots (aka solar lentigines if you’re feeling fancy).
One small problem: some forms of vitamin E lose their stability on the skin when exposed to UV light which means they become way less effective. Vitamin C, however helps it maintain its efficacy (and vice versa), so look for serums containing both vitamins C and E, and apply this underneath your broad-spectrum sunscreen for seriously potent protection. Sidenote: these two antioxidant powerhouses are also a great combination for brightening and strengthening the skin and can be found in our hugely popular Vitamin C Serum.
3. It’s One Helluva Moisturizer
Vitamin E has awesome emollient properties, meaning that when you apply it topically it helps fill in, repair and smooth the tiny cracks in your skin that are so often produced by dryness and dehydration. Sealing these cracks helps strengthen your skin’s natural protective barrier to reduce trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) – the process in which water evaporates from the surface of your skin. TEWL is so not what your skin wants in life, btw, so keeping it at an all-time low by protecting your skin’s barrier function is vital for retaining moisture and keeping your skin soft, supple and healthy.
But that’s not all: vitamin E boasts humectant as well as emollient properties which means it not only seals in moisture, but draws more water into the surface of your skin – either from humidity in the air, or from deeper levels below the skin’s surface. We combine vitamin E with hyaluronic acid in our Hyaluronic Acid Serum for a real hit of moisture that’s perfect for most skin types.
Is Vitamin E The Right Choice For Your Skin Type?
The good news is vitamin E is tolerated by most people, but it’s a particularly great shout for normal, dry or aging skin. Pure vitamin E may cause reactions and/or breakouts if you have very sensitive, super-oily or acne-prone skin but the more diluted forms – which are what you’ll find in most skincare products – are generally very well tolerated.
That being said, if you’re a vitamin E newbie, always start with a moisturizer rather than a serum to help reduce irritation. Moisturizers are made up of larger molecules than serums which means they absorb into the skin slightly more slowly. They’re also likely to contain a lower concentration of active ingredients making them less likely to cause flare-ups.
Whatever product you choose, however, always perform a patch test on your skin before slathering it all over your face. Not sure how a patch test works? We can help with that, right here.
A Focus On Vitamin E In Skincare
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Niacinamide is one of the most effective skincare ingredients for improving the overall health of your skin. Retinol, vitamin C, hyaluronic acid and friends all love to steal the limelight, but niacinamide is right up there and also deserves its fair share of attention. So, we're here to do just that...
Otherwise known as nicotinamide, niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3 that’s found in many foods including meat, fish, poultry, beans, whole grains and green veggies. It’s an essential nutrient for your health and well-being, and plays a vital role in your diet by converting fats and sugars into energy.
As a topical treatment, niacinamide can also be used to treat a whole bunch of skin types and concerns, making it a total powerhouse in our minds. Here’s what we know about the water-soluble vitamin that’s having a big moment in skincare right now...
1. One of our favorite things about niacinamide is that, along with vitamins C and E, it’s an effective antioxidant that works hard to help your skin neutralize free radicals. Not sure what free radicals are? In short, they’re highly reactive molecules that have unpaired electrons in their outer shells. Free radicals are produced in the skin when you over-expose it to things like light, heat and pollution, and in order to stabilize themselves they snatch electrons from other molecules such as DNA, collagen and elastin. This results in major damage to the skin through a process called oxidative stress.
The good news, however, is that antioxidants are able to donate the odd electron to free radicals without losing stability. This means that skin damage is dramatically reduced and free radicals lose both the battle and the war.
This is why antioxidants such as niacinamide are such an important part of your skincare routine.
2. Niacinamide also has the power to increase the production of ceramides in the uppermost layers of the skin which helps maintain a strong, protective barrier and improves the overall resiliency of your skin.
Ceramides make up over 50 percent of the skin’s composition making them pretty darn important. They're waxy lipids that work like glue to hold your skin together to help retain moisture and protect it from external factors like pollution and dry air. The problem is that ceramides become depleted with age – no surprise there, right? They also feel the hit from things like harsh skincare products and a poor diet.
And this is where niacinamide comes to the rescue. Studies show that niacinamide can increase the biosynthesis of ceramides and various other lipids which makes it a super-effective ingredient for improving the moisture levels in your skin. By maintaining top notch hydration, it also helps reduce the visible signs of aging such as dryness, dehydration, fine lines and wrinkles. Win win.3. Great news for anyone concerned with aging around the eyes: niacinamide is a perfectly safe (and effective) treatment for the delicate skin around the eye area. It may even help improve crow’s feet, dark circles, dryness and sagging. That’ll be due to its clever way of boosting ceramide production.
4. Acne-prone skin loves niacinamide and various research seen in the International Journal of Dermatology and The Dermatology Times proves it. How so? Because niacinamide has powerful anti-inflammatory properties, meaning it helps reduce unwanted redness, inflammation and swelling. Something acne-sufferers know a lot about.
Patients with mild rosacea may also find relief from skincare containing niacinamide, but it’s always wise to speak to a derm beforehand if you’re concerned.
5. Topical niacinamide is an effective ingredient for improving texture, regulating oil production and helping to reduce enlarged pores. This makes it perfect for oily or combination skin types because it works hard to balance the skin without stripping it of essential moisture and protection.
6. Anyone with sensitive skin knows how tough it can be to find effective skincare that doesn’t cause your skin to breakout. Well, niacinamide could be just the ingredient you’re looking for...
As antioxidants and anti-aging ingredients go, niacinamide is a bit of a dark horse. Unlike retinoids and vitamin C (which we love, btw, they’re just not for everyone), niacinamide is very well tolerated by almost all skin types. It can even help soothe and calm irritation caused by other ingredients or skin conditions such as rosacea or eczema. Just remember not to overuse it or it could have the reverse effect and exacerbate redness. So not what anyone wants.
7. Speaking of other skincare ingredients, niacinamide is a great way to help reduce the drying effects of active ingredients like retinol and salicylic acid due to its innate ability to strengthen the skin and help prevent moisture loss. Our advice, however? Either stick with a retinol/AHA/BHA at night and apply your niacinamide formulation in the morning, or let the professionals do the ingredient cocktailing for you. This will help prevent any amateur mishaps from causing your skin to flare-up.
8. Niacinamide can be a good alternative for reducing hyperpigmentation if your skin is sensitive to stronger actives such as tretinoin. And similar to the cocktailing tricks mentioned above, it can also be combined with various brightening or lightening ingredients such as arbutin or kojic acid to help reduce sensitivities while targeting unwanted pigmentation. Neat, huh?
9. The New England Journal of Medicine has produced some interesting research on the effects of niacinamide on skin cancer. Namely that niacinamide, when taken orally, can potentially help prevent new non-melanoma skin cancers from developing on previous skin cancer patients.
According to the American Journal of Preventive Medicine (AJPM), skin cancer is the most common cancer in the US and the annual cost of treating it is estimated to be in the tens of billions. Non-melanoma skin cancers such as basal-cell and squamous-cell carcinomas are primarily caused by over-exposure to UV radiation which is why wearing a daily, broad-spectrum sunscreen of SPF 30 or above is so important. Because of the studies as mentioned above, many top derms also recommend a daily dose of oral niacinamide to patients with a high risk for non-melanoma skin cancers.
10. There’s a lot going for niacinamide and very little reason to doubt it as an effective anti-aging, anti-inflammatory ingredient… with benefits. Obviously, it’s no miracle-worker, but then again, no skincare ingredient can completely turn back time and give you the baby-soft skin you were born with.
And it’s always worth remembering that.
10 Reasons Why Niacinamide In Skincare Is Everything
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