True Radical Honesty From Our Community

As you probably know, we’re big fans of using natural ingredients like essential oils and plant extracts in our skincare formulations. How so? Because we believe Earth’s finest offerings are worth so much more to your skin than the alternatives…

Essential oils can be contentious ingredients in the beauty and wellness space, but we truly believe the pros of using essential oils in skincare far outweigh the cons. However, this is only if you know what you’re doing. Low concentrations, blended with care and attention into serums, moisturizers, toners and cleansers can not only have positive effects on your skin, but also your emotional wellbeing. Whereas pure, undiluted essential oils are highly potent and can produce all manner of adverse skin reactions.

So, if you ever fancy playing around with pure essential oils without doing a LOT of homework first, well, don’t.

Instead, let the reputable manufacturers do all the blending for you. Then you can make some executive EO (that’s essential oil, btw) decisions without worrying that your skin might break out quicker than you can say ‘pass the tea tree oil’.

Here’s what we know about the wonderful world of essential oils…

What Are Essential Oils?

Essential oils are highly concentrated plant extracts that contain volatile aromatic compounds and are obtained from either the flowers, fruits, leaves, roots, stems or even bark of a particular plant. They can be extracted by many different methods, but the most common way is through steam distillation.

According to the National Association for Holistic Aromatherapy (NAHA), an essential oil is defined by its chemical, physical, aromatic and spiritual make up and these are entirely dependent on the specific plant from which it was extracted.

There are around 300 essential oils used in aromatherapy across the world and it’s believed they’ve been harnessed by humans since around 4500BC when ancient Egyptians used them in cosmetics, fragrance and medicines. Many people swear by EOs for treating both emotional and physical health concerns such as stress, anxiety, pain and insomnia.

Why Essential Oils Are Important In Skincare

Because of their countless benefits for the skin, essential oils are used in a variety of skincare products and due to today’s consumers being way more interested in adopting a more natural beauty routine, their popularity continues to grow. Many oils have healing, toning, brightening and hydrating benefits and some even offer anti-inflammatory and antioxidant qualities. Aromatherapy skeptics often suggest that essential oils do more harm to your skin than good, yet countless studies suggest that when they’re diluted at safe levels, they have very little cause for concern.

But just because they’re natural, this doesn’t mean all EOs are good for your skin – and especially the delicate skin on your face. Certain oils like cinnamon and mint, for example, may help stimulate circulation when used in the correct concentration on your body, but they can be risky on your face and cause irritations or an allergic reaction.

This is why you should always read your skincare label carefully and contact the manufacturer if you have questions about their essential oil ingredients, processing and levels of concentration (around 1 percent is seen as the safest for most skin types, btw). Make sure to also perform a patch test with any new product, leaving it for at least 24 hours (preferably 48) to test for adverse reactions before applying it all over your face. In rare cases, a severe allergic reaction may occur so always seek advice and a diagnosis from a skincare expert or allergist if you have concerns. 

8 Of Our Favorite Essential Oils For Your Skin

We truly believe blending and diluting essential oils is best left in the hands of the experts, but it’s still worth knowing the benefits some of the most common EOs have up their sleeves, right?

Here are some of our favorite essential oils here at TruSkin HQ.

1. Geranium

According to research, geranium EO is a real find for treating dry skin, reducing the visible signs of aging, calming inflammation and fighting infection. It also has anti-bacterial properties so is often used on acne-prone skin to keep pores clean and pimples at bay.
Find It In: Eye Cream, Hylauronic Acid Serum

2. Helichrysum

The helichrysum italicum plant is most commonly found in southern Europe and the Mediterranean. Its oil has anti-inflammatory, anti-fungal and antibacterial properties and has long been used for treating inflammation and accelerating wound healing.
Find It In: Eye Cream

3. Lavender

One of the most commonly used EOs in skincare and aromatherapy, lavender’s antiseptic and antibacterial qualities make it a hugely popular choice for reducing acne and soothing the skin. Lavender’s spa-like fragrance has also been proven to alleviate stress and calm both the body and mind.
Find It In: Charcoal Face Wash, C-Plus Super Serum, Tea Tree Clear Skin Super Serum

4. Lemongrass

Lemongrass essential oil is a big player in the antioxidant world so it’s a neat ingredient for fighting free radicals and reducing the signs of premature aging. Lemongrass is also purifying, balancing, healing and has an awesome citrus fragrance that gives a lovely scent to skincare products.
Find It In: Eye Cream

5. Pink Grapefruit

Brimming with vitamins A and C, pink grapefruit is another antioxidant-rich essential oil that’s fabulous for mature or dull skin. It contains lycopene which is a natural exfoliant and has a naturally uplifting scent that helps brighten and lift both your skin and your wellbeing.
Find It In: C-Plus Super Serum

6. Rose

While the benefits of pure rose EO are never-ending (think moisturizing, regenerating, stress relieving and healing for starters), it takes around 250lb of rose petals to produce just 1oz of oil which makes it crazy expensive. Another by-product of the distillation process, however, is rose water which contains up to 20 percent of the water-soluble oils that get left behind after the distillation process. Rose water is a fabulous skin tonic and its anti-inflammatory properties are great for preventing pimples and reducing redness.
Find Rose Water In: Daily Facial Rose Water Toner

7. Tea Tree

Due to its potent anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties, tea tree essential oil is a go-to for anyone suffering with acne, enlarged pores or super-oily skin. It may also help relieve itching and speed up the healing process, and it’s pretty well tolerated by most skin types.
Find It In: Tea Tree Clear Skin Super Serum, Vitamin C Daily Facial Cleanser

8. Ylang Ylang

Ylang ylang essential oil is a very effective cleansing agent due to its anti-bacterial properties. It also helps balance oil production so, similar to tea tree EO, it's great for treating and helping reduce acne and other unwanted skin blemishes.
Find It In: Charcoal Face Wash, C-Plus Super Serum, Tea Tree Clear Skin Super Serum

Vitamin E is one of those skincare ingredients that’s been loved forever. A potent antioxidant and moisturizing master, here’s everything you need to know.

Don’t get us wrong, we’re all for trying out new ingredients in our skincare routines. But oftentimes, the oldies are the best. Take, vitamin E, for example. Used for over 50 years in cosmetics, vitamin E offers a whole bunch of benefits to the skin and for us, it’s up there with vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, retinol and, well, we could go on. But we won’t.

We’re sure you already have a little vitamin E in your daily regime, but how well do you know this unassuming but revered skincare ingredient? Not well at all? Then allow us to introduce you to everything vitamin E has to offer.

First Things First, What Is Vitamin E?

Vitamin E is a fat-soluble antioxidant that’s found naturally in your skin where it supports cell function and helps maintain the overall health of your skin. But guess what happens as you age? You’ll never gue… OK, you totally will because we know you’ve heard this one before. Yes, just like your natural levels of collagen, elastin, hyaluronic acid, ceramides and all the other good stuff found in your skin, vitamin E depletes with time. Age is, for sure, a vicious, vicious beast.

In better news, vitamin E can be found in various food sources including nuts, leafy green veggies, avocado, pumpkin, olive oil and sunflower oil, so try adding more of these into your diet to help keep your levels up.

It’s also produced synthetically and formulated very successfully in skincare products such as serums, oils and creams which is music to the ears of dry or aging skin. There are around eight difference forms of vitamin E, but the most common ones you’ll see on the labels of your products are tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate and alpha-tocopheryl acetate.

The Benefits Of Vitamin E In Skincare 

1. Vitamin E Is A Highly Researched Antioxidant

Its powerful antioxidant properties make vitamin E one of the best ingredients for fighting those bad guys known as free radicals. Free radicals are unstable atoms produced by the skin when you subject it to too much heat, light, pollution or other nasties such as alcohol and a poor diet. In order to stabilize themselves, free radicals snatch electrons from vital skin components such as DNA, connective tissue, collagen and elastin, which damages them and accelerates premature skin aging such as fine lines, wrinkles, sagging, discoloration, the works. This is why we hate free radicals.

Antioxidants, on the other hand, are clever little cookies which offer up electrons to free radicals while maintaining their own stability. This means all the good stuff in your skin gets left alone to care, support, protect and heal your skin while the antioxidants do the hard graft in fighting those pesky free radicals. As we said, clever.

2. Vitamin E Helps Fight Sun Damage

When it comes to fighting the damaging effects of that great big ball of fire in the sky, its antioxidant powers aren’t the only thing going in vitamin E’s favor. Studies also suggest that vitamin E has photoprotective properties. What does that mean, we hear you ask? Simple, photoprotection = sun protection.

Anything that offers some kind of defense from UV damage comes under the photoprotection umbrella – think broad-rimmed hats, clothing and sunscreen. Oh, and vitamin E. Its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties are partly to thank for its photoprotective qualities, but research shows that vitamin E can also absorb some of the energy from UV light, further preventing UV damage and helping reduce the likes of sun-induced dark spots (aka solar lentigines if you’re feeling fancy).

One small problem: some forms of vitamin E lose their stability on the skin when exposed to UV light which means they become way less effective. Vitamin C, however helps it maintain its efficacy (and vice versa), so look for serums containing both vitamins C and E, and apply this underneath your broad-spectrum sunscreen for seriously potent protection. Sidenote: these two antioxidant powerhouses are also a great combination for brightening and strengthening the skin and can be found in our hugely popular Vitamin C Serum.

3. It’s One Helluva Moisturizer

Vitamin E has awesome emollient properties, meaning that when you apply it topically it helps fill in, repair and smooth the tiny cracks in your skin that are so often produced by dryness and dehydration. Sealing these cracks helps strengthen your skin’s natural protective barrier to reduce trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) – the process in which water evaporates from the surface of your skin. TEWL is so not what your skin wants in life, btw, so keeping it at an all-time low by protecting your skin’s barrier function is vital for retaining moisture and keeping your skin soft, supple and healthy.

But that’s not all: vitamin E boasts humectant as well as emollient properties which means it not only seals in moisture, but draws more water into the surface of your skin – either from humidity in the air, or from deeper levels below the skin’s surface. We combine vitamin E with hyaluronic acid in our Hyaluronic Acid Serum for a real hit of moisture that’s perfect for most skin types.

Is Vitamin E The Right Choice For Your Skin Type?

The good news is vitamin E is tolerated by most people, but it’s a particularly great shout for normal, dry or aging skin. Pure vitamin E may cause reactions and/or breakouts if you have very sensitive, super-oily or acne-prone skin but the more diluted forms – which are what you’ll find in most skincare products – are generally very well tolerated.

That being said, if you’re a vitamin E newbie, always start with a moisturizer rather than a serum to help reduce irritation. Moisturizers are made up of larger molecules than serums which means they absorb into the skin slightly more slowly. They’re also likely to contain a lower concentration of active ingredients making them less likely to cause flare-ups.

Whatever product you choose, however, always perform a patch test on your skin before slathering it all over your face. Not sure how a patch test works? We can help with that, right here.

Niacinamide is one of the most effective skincare ingredients for improving the overall health of your skin. Retinol, vitamin C, hyaluronic acid and friends all love to steal the limelight, but niacinamide is right up there and also deserves its fair share of attention. So, we're here to do just that...

Otherwise known as nicotinamide, niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3 that’s found in many foods including meat, fish, poultry, beans, whole grains and green veggies. It’s an essential nutrient for your health and well-being, and plays a vital role in your diet by converting fats and sugars into energy. 

As a topical treatment, niacinamide can also be used to treat a whole bunch of skin types and concerns, making it a total powerhouse in our minds. Here’s what we know about the water-soluble vitamin that’s having a big moment in skincare right now...

1. One of our favorite things about niacinamide is that, along with vitamins C and E, it’s an effective antioxidant that works hard to help your skin neutralize free radicals. Not sure what free radicals are? In short, they’re highly reactive molecules that have unpaired electrons in their outer shells. Free radicals are produced in the skin when you over-expose it to things like light, heat and pollution, and in order to stabilize themselves they snatch electrons from other molecules such as DNA, collagen and elastin. This results in major damage to the skin through a process called oxidative stress.

The good news, however, is that antioxidants are able to donate the odd electron to free radicals without losing stability. This means that skin damage is dramatically reduced and free radicals lose both the battle and the war.

This is why antioxidants such as niacinamide are such an important part of your skincare routine.

2. Niacinamide also has the power to increase the production of ceramides in the uppermost layers of the skin which helps maintain a strong, protective barrier and improves the overall resiliency of your skin.

Ceramides make up over 50 percent of the skin’s composition making them pretty darn important. They're waxy lipids that work like glue to hold your skin together to help retain moisture and protect it from external factors like pollution and dry air. The problem is that ceramides become depleted with age – no surprise there, right? They also feel the hit from things like harsh skincare products and a poor diet.

And this is where niacinamide comes to the rescue. Studies show that niacinamide can increase the biosynthesis of ceramides and various other lipids which makes it a super-effective ingredient for improving the moisture levels in your skin. By maintaining top notch hydration, it also helps reduce the visible signs of aging such as dryness, dehydration, fine lines and wrinkles. Win win.

3. Great news for anyone concerned with aging around the eyes: niacinamide is a perfectly safe (and effective) treatment for the delicate skin around the eye area. It may even help improve crow’s feet, dark circles, dryness and sagging. That’ll be due to its clever way of boosting ceramide production.

4. Acne-prone skin loves niacinamide and various research seen in the International Journal of Dermatology and The Dermatology Times proves it. How so? Because niacinamide has powerful anti-inflammatory properties, meaning it helps reduce unwanted redness, inflammation and swelling. Something acne-sufferers know a lot about.

Patients with mild rosacea may also find relief from skincare containing niacinamide, but it’s always wise to speak to a derm beforehand if you’re concerned.

5. Topical niacinamide is an effective ingredient for improving texture, regulating oil production and helping to reduce enlarged pores. This makes it perfect for oily or combination skin types because it works hard to balance the skin without stripping it of essential moisture and protection.

6. Anyone with sensitive skin knows how tough it can be to find effective skincare that doesn’t cause your skin to breakout. Well, niacinamide could be just the ingredient you’re looking for...

As antioxidants and anti-aging ingredients go, niacinamide is a bit of a dark horse. Unlike retinoids and vitamin C (which we love, btw, they’re just not for everyone), niacinamide is very well tolerated by almost all skin types. It can even help soothe and calm irritation caused by other ingredients or skin conditions such as rosacea or eczema. Just remember not to overuse it or it could have the reverse effect and exacerbate redness. So not what anyone wants.

7. Speaking of other skincare ingredients, niacinamide is a great way to help reduce the drying effects of active ingredients like retinol and salicylic acid due to its innate ability to strengthen the skin and help prevent moisture loss. Our advice, however? Either stick with a retinol/AHA/BHA at night and apply your niacinamide formulation in the morning, or let the professionals do the ingredient cocktailing for you. This will help prevent any amateur mishaps from causing your skin to flare-up. 

8. Niacinamide can be a good alternative for reducing hyperpigmentation if your skin is sensitive to stronger actives such as tretinoin. And similar to the cocktailing tricks mentioned above, it can also be combined with various brightening or lightening ingredients such as arbutin or kojic acid to help reduce sensitivities while targeting unwanted pigmentation. Neat, huh? 

9. The New England Journal of Medicine has produced some interesting research on the effects of niacinamide on skin cancer. Namely that niacinamide, when taken orally, can potentially help prevent new non-melanoma skin cancers from developing on previous skin cancer patients.

According to the American Journal of Preventive Medicine (AJPM), skin cancer is the most common cancer in the US and the annual cost of treating it is estimated to be in the tens of billions. Non-melanoma skin cancers such as basal-cell and squamous-cell carcinomas are primarily caused by over-exposure to UV radiation which is why wearing a daily, broad-spectrum sunscreen of SPF 30 or above is so important. Because of the studies as mentioned above, many top derms also recommend a daily dose of oral niacinamide to patients with a high risk for non-melanoma skin cancers.

10. There’s a lot going for niacinamide and very little reason to doubt it as an effective anti-aging, anti-inflammatory ingredient… with benefits. Obviously, it’s no miracle-worker, but then again, no skincare ingredient can completely turn back time and give you the baby-soft skin you were born with.

And it’s always worth remembering that.

Flawlessly moisturized skin comes from so much more than a daily dose of hyaluronic acid (although we would never knock HA, of course). Here, we show you how to get your moisturizing routine just right with the perfect blend of emollients, humectants and occlusives.

Skincare terms can be so darn mind-boggling, sometimes. And we get it. It’s enough to know your UVAs from your UVBs, let alone your GAGs from your NMFs. And don’t worry, we’re not going to bore you with too many acronyms today – let’s save those for another time. Instead, we’re here to talk about emollients, humectants and occlusives: the moisturizing masters of the skincare world, if you will.

No idea what the heck these even are? Then you’ve come to the right place. 

EMOLLIENTS

What Are Emollients?

Emollients are lipids, butters or oils that help repair cracks in the skin caused by aging and environmental or lifestyle stressors such as UV radiation, pollution, a poor cleansing routine or even a bad diet. These all work together like a fine-tuned wrecking ball to destroy the levels of natural lipids in your skin, resulting in cracks, flakes and dryness. By sealing these cracks and smoothing the surface of your skin, emollients work to strengthen the skin’s natural protective layer, which in turn helps prevent trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) – the process in which water evaporates from the skin’s surface into the air. Keeping your levels of TEWL at an all-time low is what skin lives for.
 
Emollients can be synthetic, plant-based or derived from sources such as alcohol, sheep’s wool or mineral oils. Plant-based emollients get our vote, every time.

Effective Emollients To Look Out For

Argan oil, coconut oil, colloidal oatmeal, isopropyl palmitate, jojoba oil, rosehip seed oil, shea butter, squalane and sweet almond oil.

A Side-Note On Emollients

Just to confuse matters, emollients can also refer to the types of products (lotions, creams and ointments) that contain emollient ingredients. Lotions contain mostly water with fewer emollients, while creams contain similar amounts of water and emollients, and ointments consist of mostly emollients in very little water. This makes ointments awesome for super-dry skin, but a poor choice for oily, combination or acne-prone complexions. Think about it ­– massive amounts of pore-clogging oil and congested skin? Not the best combo, right?

HUMECTANTS

What Are Humectants?

While their raison d’être is very much the same as emollients – to keep the skin hydrated if you hadn’t cottoned on to that already – humectants work very differently. Rather than repairing the skin to seal in moisture, humectants attract water from their surroundings and draw it into the epidermis. If the air has enough humidity, humectants will pull water vapor from here, but they may draw it up from the underlying levels of your skin. They do this to moisturize the upper levels of your skin and reduce dryness, flakiness and cracking at the surface.

Humectants also work to promote cell turnover by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This process is called desquamation and it makes the dead stuff fall off to make way for fresher, healthier skin. Woot.

Skin naturally contains humectants, but these levels drop as you age which is why skin becomes drier as you get older, and why including more humectants in your skincare becomes more important over time.

Effective Humectants Look Out For

Aloe, glycerin, glycolic acid, honey, hyaluronic acid (HA), lactic acid, panthenol, propylene glycol and urea.

A Side-Note On Humectants

Humectants are smart little cookies, but they can have the reverse effect on your skin if you don’t use them wisely. How so? Well, if you slather your skin only in humectants and expect the world you’ll be sorely disappointed, because in order to work to their best ability, humectants need to be sealed into your skin with emollient or occlusive ingredients. Otherwise all that moisture will just evaporate into thin air. Check out the label of your HA serum and if it doesn’t contain an emollient like aloe vera or jojoba oil in the ingredients list (ours does, BTW) make sure to always apply moisturizer over the top.

OCCLUSIVES

What Are Occlusives?

Just like emollients, occlusives don’t actually increase moisture levels, but rather work to create a physical barrier on the surface of your skin to protect it from external aggressors and help prevent moisture loss (there's that all-important TEWL, again). Some emollients, like cocoa and shea butters, have occlusive properties and may be referred to as occlusive emollients (just to confuse matters), but an emollient’s main function is to soften, whereas occlusives are all about sealing water in the skin. In short, most emollients have occlusive properties, but not all occlusives are emollients.

Still with us? Good.

Occlusives are generally a bad idea for oily or congested skin as they’re usually thick, waxy and heavy in texture meaning they're suckers for blocking your pores. They’re awesome at reducing irritation and restoring the skin barrier, however, so are extremely effective when applied to severely dry skin or to help concerns like eczema and psoriasis.

Effective Occlusives Look Out For

Allantoin, beeswax, carnauba wax, cocoa butter, dimethicone, lanolin, mineral oils, petrolatum, shea butter and silicone.

A Side-Note On Occlusives

When it comes to oily skin types avoiding occlusives, silicones are the exception to the rule. Unlike waxes and butters, silicones have large spaces between their molecules, which means oxygen and nutrients are still able to pass through them, but water can’t. This gives silicones great occlusive qualities, without clogging your pores and/or causing acne. Clever stuff.

So, What’s Best For You?

If we were to host a three-way moisturizing battle between humectants, emollients and occlusives, it would result in a dead heat. Sorry to be boring, but it really would because the truth is, not one of them is better than the rest.

It figures, therefore, that the best moisturizing regime should include a combination of humectants to draw in moisture, emollients to smooth, and occlusives to seal all that goodness in. Those of you with normal, combination or oily skin types may find that emollients are enough to hold moisture into your skin, whereas dry, dehydrated or sensitive skin types often benefit from a thicker, heavier occlusive.
 
But the thing is, as with all skincare, it’s a totally personal choice.

Photo by Andrea Piacquadio from Pexels

Retinol opens up a whole world of confusion for some people. But when it comes to proven anti-aging skincare ingredients it gives us all the feels. 

That’s why knowing what it is and, more importantly how to make it work for you,  well, that knowledge is priceless. Not sure of the difference between retinol and retinoic acid? Wondering whether a topical retinoid is OK for your super-sensitive skin? Then get comfy, because we have all the answers to your most pressing questions, right here.

Q: First things first, what are retinoids?

A: Retinoids are active, topical forms of vitamin A that can be split into two camps: retinol and tretinoin.

Vitamin A is a fat-soluble vitamin found naturally in eggs, yellow and orange fruit and veggies, liver, fish, cheese and butter. It’s an essential part of a well-balanced diet and helps maintain healthy cell growth while boosting your vision and reproductive and immune systems.

The active form (the one that does all the good stuff) of vitamin A is called retinoic acid and its topical counterpart is called tretinoin. Tretinoin is a clever little prescription-only ingredient that delivers retinoic acid to the skin to stimulate healthy cell turnover for a glowing, more youthful complexion.

Retinol, meanwhile, is an over-the-counter, gentler version of tretinoin that biochemically does the same thing, but must be converted into retinoic acid by the skin before it can get to work. Studies have shown that retinol is 20 times less potent that tretinoin, but it’s considerably kinder on the complexion which why it’s every beauty editor’s/derm’s/celebrity’s favorite anti-aging ingredient.

Still confused? Then just remember this, retinol is the tortoise to tretinoin’s hare.

Q: What are the benefits of using a topical retinoid?

A: When absorbed by the skin, retinoic acid molecules attach themselves to the center of cells where genetic information is stored. Here, they trigger and activate certain genes to increase collagen production and stimulate the skin to turnover more efficiently. This not only helps soften, thicken and plump up the skin but offers no end of benefits for enlarged pores, acne, pigmentation and aging skin.

Research also shows that retinoids have powerful antioxidant properties, which is why many people call them the ultimate miracle-workers. We, on the other hand prefer not to subscribe to such bold promises. Let’s just say they’re up there with the most proven and effective skincare ingredients, shall we?

Q: So, does that mean tretinoin is better than retinol?

A: Yes and no. Tretinoin is only available on prescription and is often advised to patients who are serious about treating fine lines, wrinkles and discolorations. Derms and doctors see tretinoin as the gold standard of retinoids because it’s so pure, but it packs such a retinoic acid punch that it can be hard to tolerate – especially if you have sensitive skin.

This is why we truly believe that over-the-counter products are the cat’s whiskers. Retinol can be just as effective as tretinoin, as long as you shop wisely and are happy to play the long game. Derivatives of retinol such as retinyl palmitate, retinyl propionate, retinyl acetate and retinyl linoleate are super weak and, in our opinion, not worth it. But choose formulas that contain pure retinol and while visible results may take a little longer, you’ll see just as many benefits as you would from a tretinoin product.

Q: If I start using a retinoid regularly, how long will it be before I see improvements in my skin?

A: Tretinoin usually offers visible results at around the three month mark. Retinol, due to its gentler nature, however, may take up to six. The good thing is that retinoids are among the most highly researched ingredients in skincare and show proven, visible results. Unlike other headline-grabbing ingredients that promise the world but fail to deliver, retinoids have been tried and tested for decades. And they work. They just do. But patience is a virtue.

Q: What’s the best way to use topical retinoid?

A: Great question. Retinoids are best used at night because sunlight can deactivate vitamin A. Nighttime use is also advised to reduce any dryness and redness you may experience from the sun. Contrary to popular belief, retinoids themselves are not sun sensitizing, but they do thin the very top layer of your skin to help rid your complexion of pore-clogging dead skin cells. This is a good thing, but it also disrupts the natural protective barrier which is why you should apply it at night, then in the morning wear a daily, broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or above. 

Another tip is to start slowly. Most derms agree you should begin with a low concentration of retinol such as 0.5-1.0 percent. Apply it to clean skin every other night to begin with, then as your skin acclimates you can up your application to every night. After a few months, you could also move up to a higher concentration as tolerated. And if your skin feels dry? Then feel free to layer your favorite moisturizer on top.

Q: Is it true you should never apply retinol to damp skin?

A: In a word, no. There’s no real evidence to suggest that applying retinol to damp or wet skin will intensify skin irritation. Nor will it render the ingredient more or less effective. More importantly, you should ensure your skin is clean and well prepped before applying your retinol product. Cleanse thoroughly and gently exfoliate any dry, flaky patches to make way for the fresh skin underneath. This helps the active ingredient penetrate your skin which actually reduces irritation.

Q: Speaking of which, my skin became really dry and irritated after introducing retinol into my skincare routine, should I stop?

A: Dryness, flaking and slight redness are part of what’s called the purging process, so don’t worry, this is very normal. Skin purging is just your skin reacting to the active retinol which accelerates the exfoliation process and promotes skin cells to turnover quicker than normal. This is great for the health, look and feel of your skin in the long run, but can temporarily exacerbate redness, irritation and scaling.

The good news, however, is these side-effects are temporary so try to push through them. There are also a few tricks to help you avoid them in the first place. First, slowly introduce retinol into your routine to allow your skin to adjust – and yes, once a week is OK. Then you can up the frequency by one day per week as your skin becomes more tolerant. If the irritation continues or gets worse, take your usage back down again and/or try a super-low concentration – we’re talking 0.5 or even 0.3 percent.

Still struggling? Then speak to a skincare expert because retinol might not be for you. There are plenty of other effective skincare ingredients that are more tolerable for sensitive skin like niacinamide, aloe vera or hyaluronic acid.

Q: Can I use retinol with other active skincare ingredients like vitamin C?

A: Combining active skincare ingredients can sometimes have disastrous effects if left in the wrong hands. But that is the key because if you know what you’re doing or better still, leave it to the experts, the results from ingredient cocktailing can be glorious.

Take retinol and vitamin C, for example. Studies have shown that, together, this little power couple offers visible benefits to aging skin such as an improvement in texture and tone, plus a notable reduction in photodamage – aka hyperpigmentation. Retinol and vitamin C are both proven antioxidants and work well to defend the skin against the damaging effects of the sun. We actually combine them with hyaluronic acid and niacinamide in our Vitamin C-Plus Super Serum for a potent, but surprisingly gentle fix of skin-loving actives.

As a side-note, retinol also combines well with AHAs and BHAs like glycolic and salicylic acids. In fact, like John Krasinski and Emily Blunt, they bring out the best in each other to increase turnover and leave you with healthy, glowing skin.

Q: At what age should I start regularly using a retinol product?

A: This depends on each individual because everyone’s skin ages at different rates based on their genes, lifestyle, diet and overall health. Someone living the high-life in the full California sun may find their skin ages at a much faster rate than someone of the same age living in less sunnier climes, for example. That being said, most experts agree that somewhere in your mid to late 20s is ideal, but you know your skin and it’s never too early (nor too late)…

Photo by pisauikan on Unsplash

The soothing skin benefits of aloe vera after a few hours in the sun cannot be beaten. But aloe offers so much more than instant, feel-good sun relief. In fact, it’s packed with nutrients to help heal, repair and hydrate your skin. Want the lowdown? You’ve got it.

Otherwise known as aloe barbadensis, aloe vera is an evergreen, cactus-like succulent that’s just one of 500 species of the genus, aloe. Found naturally in North Africa, it’s been cultivated worldwide for centuries for the water-rich, medicinal gel that develops in its rosette of leaves and helps it survive in its naturally dry habitat. According to the Medical News Today the use of aloe vera can be traced back as far as the 16^th century, and in ancient Egypt it was even known as ‘that plant of immortality.’ 

Before we even touch on skincare, it's interesting to note that the benefits of aloe vera are endless. Not only has it been proven to fight cavities and heal ulcers on the feet, but further research shows that it may even help reduce depression, memory loss and irritable bowel syndrome. Additional studies are still required to back up these latter claims, but watch this space...

By far the most well-known use for aloe vera, however, is as a topical skincare ingredient. In fact, it's so effective that it goes into every one of our products, here at TruSkin. Yes, you read that correctly. Every. Single. One. Here are five reasons why we believe in it so much.

1. Aloe Vera Soothes Sunburn Like No Other

Not only is aloe vera naturally cooling on the skin (yes, even for sensitive skin types), but it helps reduce itchiness, irritation and inflammation which can all be symptoms of over-exposure to the sun.

The reason it’s so effective is two-fold. First, aloe vera contains polysaccharides (chain-like sugars) which are anti-inflammatory and help the skin retain water to stay supple and hydrated. It’s also rich in enzymes, active minerals and a whole host of vitamins including A, B, C, D and E which, together, accelerate the healing process.

According to the AAD (American Academy of Dermatology) you should always use a moisturizer containing either aloe vera or soy to soothe sunburned skin.

2. It’s Great For Acne-Prone Skin

Because of its antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties, aloe vera is awesome when combined with other acne-fighting ingredients for effectively reducing mild to moderate acne lesions.

It's great in cleansers to help remove bacteria and excess oils from the surface of the skin and thus reduce the development of acne spots. And if you want to target breakouts while you sleep, try it as an overnight treatment. It works especially well when combined with ingredients such as tea tree oil and salicylic acid.

Try: Tea Tree Clear Skin Super Serum

3. Aloe Vera Helps Fight Free Radicals

The skin hates free radicals. And rightly so. Free radicals are unstable molecules that are formed in the skin after exposure to unwanted external aggressors such as light, heat and pollution. Because they have electrons missing from their outer shells, free radicals like to stabilize themselves by stealing electrons from other molecules such as DNA, collagen and elastin. This causes all manner of unnecessary damage to the skin.

So, how do you counteract such savagery? With antioxidants, that’s how. Antioxidants are clever little actives that are happy to donate electrons to free radicals without losing their stability. This means all the good stuff in your skin gets left alone to do its job at keeping your complexion as healthy as possible, while those hard-working antioxidants take all the pressure.

Along with other skin-loving ingredients like retinol, niacinamide, vitamin C and hyaluronic acid, research published by the NCBI (National Center for Biotechnology Information) has proven that aloe vera is a very useful antioxidant in skincare.

4. Its Skin Healing Properties Are Second To None

The healing powers of aloe vera don't just apply to sunburn. In fact, whether you’re hoping to heal an old zit, scab, scar or even a burn wound, aloe vera’s got your back.

Remember that delicious cocktail of amino acids, antioxidants, vitamins and minerals we talked about earlier? Well, they work synergistically to soothe, hydrate and repair the skin’s natural moisture barrier which can help heal all manner of skin concerns. Buh-bye blemishes.

5. Aloe Vera Is A Super Effective Moisturizer

As you might have gathered by now, aloe vera is packed with no end of nutrients to help maintain truly healthy skin. Well, it doesn’t stop there because the wonder-plant also contains another goodie: phytosterols. 

Phytosterols are cholesterol-like molecules that help maintain the structure of cell membranes. They cannot be synthesized naturally by the body, so they have to be either ingested or applied topically. In the diet, phytosterols help reduce cholesterol and are found mostly in vegetable oils, nuts, seeds and beans. And topically, thanks to skincare ingredients like aloe vera, they've been shown to increase collagen and hyaluronic acid production. This works to help prevent trans-epidermal water loss which strengthens, hydrates and protects the skin.

Strong, super-hydrated, soft and supple? Now, that's the type of skin everyone strives for.