How To Up Your Skin’s Barrier Function Game
If you have sensitive skin, your best defense isn’t to overload it with a gazillion products in an attempt to ‘cure’ your sensitivities. Instead, it’s all about going back to basics to strengthen and care for your skin’s barrier function.
It's a fact, the uppermost layer of your skin really gets put through the mill. From constant cleansing through to the daily grind of heat, cold, sun, wind, pollution and central heating (need we go on?), its job to protect and defend your body comes under so much stress it’s a wonder it copes.
But that’s the thing: oftentimes, it doesn’t. And this is when problems like inflammation and flare-ups set in.
So, let’s have a look at the skin barrier to see what we can do to keep it at its very best, shall we?
What Exactly Is The Skin Barrier?
Your skin consists of three main layers. At the lowest level is the hypodermis (also known as subcutaneous tissue) which keeps your skin attached to your bones and muscle, supplies it with blood, and pads and insulates your body. Next, you’ll find the dermis which is where you’ll find your hair follicles, sweat glands, blood vessels and connective tissues. And at the very top is the protective layer, the epidermis, which serves primarily as a barrier to things like water, pollution, infection and damage.
The epidermis is split into many more layers but the uppermost layer is the one we’re concerned about here: the stratum corneum. Why? Because when we talk about your skin’s barrier function, the stratum corneum is where it all happens.
The stratum corneum is your body’s first line of defense and it works super hard to protect you from the environment and everything it throws at you. It’s kind of like a brick wall, built from around 20 layers of cells – although this is different for everyone and varies in certain areas of the body. These layers are made primarily of keratin, held in place by lipids such as ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids. Together with your skin’s NMF (natural moisturizing factor) these work to keep the skin soft, supple, healthy and moisturized.
What Happens When Your Barrier Function Is Compromised?
Simple: if your stratum corneum is thin and/or weakened it won’t work as efficiently as it should to retain moisture and block out irritants. Cue dryness, dehydration and sensitivities such as itching, inflammation, redness, rashes and so on. And that's not all. Skin disorders like eczema, psoriasis and rosacea are also thought to be exacerbated or even triggered by an impaired skin barrier.
But why do some people have a weaker barrier function than others? Well, everyone’s skin composition is different (hello genetics), but there are a few factors to take into consideration when determining how strong and healthy your personal barrier function is. For starters, pale skin generally has a thinner stratum corneum than darker skin types which means its barrier doesn’t function as well and it’s more prone to irritation. Oh, and guess what? Your skin barrier weakens as you age, so while your skin might have been super strong and resilient in your 20s, by the time you hit your 30s this might no longer be the case. Aging. Ruthless.
5 Ways To A Better Skin Barrier Function
The good news is there are plenty of ways to care for your barrier function, strengthen your skin and therefore reduce sensitivities. Here are five simple ways to do all of the above.
1. Ditch The Harsh Cleansers
One of the worst things you can do for your skin’s barrier is to strip away all of its natural oils when washing your face. Be kind as you cleanse by using lukewarm, never hot water and choose your ingredients wisely. Surfactants like sodium laureth sulfate (SLS) and sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES) are often used in cleansers because they’re very good at cleaning the skin. But we think they’re a little too effective and this can end up leaving your barrier dry and compromised. This is why sulfates get a big no from us. Instead, look for gentler surfactants in your cleansers like disodium laureth sulfosuccinate and disodium 2-sulfolaurate. We use these in our cleansers as they’re known to be much kinder and way more skin-friendly than SLS and SLES.
2. Don’t Over-Exfoliate
As with the downsides of over-zealous cleansing, exfoliating your skin too much or too often can also damage your poor old stratum corneum. Skin cells have a life cycle of around 28 days in which time they form, mature and shed. This cycle often becomes sluggish and needs a little kick up the butt with things like exfoliation and chemical peels, but if you go too crazy you can end up causing more harm than good.
If you’re a fan of chemical peels, ask your derm to recommend the best frequency plan for your skin type and when it comes to at-home exfoliation? Replace super harsh scrubs that contain damaging particles like ground nut shells with gentle chemical exfoliators like lactic acid.
3. Embrace Antioxidants
Environmental stressors such as pollution and sun exposure are massive threats to the skin’s barrier function which is why we truly believe that protecting your skin is just as important as treating it well. Make sure you wear a daily, broad-spectrum sunscreen that has an SPF of 30 or above and never underestimate the powers of a good antioxidant serum to help counteract the damage caused by free radicals. Vitamin E and niacinamide are great options because they help repair barrier function and are tolerable by most skin types.
4. Boost Your NMF With The Right Ingredients
Your skin’s natural moisturizing factor (NMF) is a clever and very efficient way for your skin to keep itself naturally hydrated and healthy – but as you get older and subject it to the daily grinds of life, it needs help with some choice moisturizing ingredients.
Most derms and skin experts will tell you that ceramides are some of the most important ingredients for helping to up your NMF and restore your skin’s barrier. Ceramides are lipids that hold everything together in the stratum corneum but they’re greatly reduced by aging and environmental damage, so it totally figures that adding extras into your skincare routine will be beneficial in the long-term.
Similarly, humectants like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, aloe and urea are great ways to draw water into the skin, while emollient or occlusive ingredients like jojoba oil and colloidal oatmeal will seal it all in to help your barrier heal and repair itself.
5. Eat Well, Sleep Well & Try Not To Stress
This may be easier said than done but leading a healthier lifestyle in which you keep stress to a minimum, get eight hours of sleep and eat a balanced diet will go a long way in protecting and repairing your skin’s barrier from the inside out. Stress and lack of sleep have both been proven to weaken the skin’s barrier by slowing down its healing process, so do everything you can to be more zen and get your zzzs on a regular basis. This is important stuff, OK?
When it comes to what you eat, avoid refined carbs and sugars which are the devil and introduce more healthy fats such as omega-3 into your diet. Omega-3 is vital for a top dollar barrier function, so up your quota by eating more fatty fish like salmon and mackerel.
Finally, if your skin is causing you real concerns, it probably needs more help than you can offer it at home, so never hesitate to seek advice from a skincare professional. It may be that you’ve become intolerant to a certain ingredient in a product or become allergic to a specific type of food. And these are not things you can easily diagnose at home. Trust us, we've been there...
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![Honest Question: Do You Really Need To Switch Up Your Skincare Routine In Winter?]()
Consistency is our favorite word when it comes to a boss skincare routine. So why should you mess with yours just because the weather’s changed? Simple, because, er, the weather has changed.
Whether you subscribe to seasonal skincare or not, one thing’s for sure, skin becomes drier and more sensitive in the winter time.
Winter, for most of us, means colder, drier weather which can be tough for your delicate skin to take. Extreme temperatures – especially when you flip-flop between frigid temperatures outdoors and balmy ones inside – stress out your skin and compromise its critical barrier function. Then there’s the lack of humidity which starves your skin of vital moisture and, well, stresses out your skin and barrier function even further.
However, as you know, we’re all about sticking with a consistent skincare routine, all year round. So what should you do in winter to ensure you’re not causing potential upset to your tried and tested routine, but you’re still giving your skin the extra care it needs to make it through the chilly months?
The answer: make small tweaks rather than massive changes. Here's how.
1. Add In An Extra Layer Of Moisture
A certain level of dryness and dehydration is pretty much a given in the winter months – whatever your skin type – but if you’re like us and hate to give up your trusted moisturizer, the good news is, you don’t have to. Instead, layer up by applying a thirst-quenching serum underneath your regular moisturizer each morning. This will help draw water to the surface of your skin, giving it a much-needed boost without having to apply an overly rich moisturizing cream (which, let’s face it, can ruin your makeup!).
We have tons of fabulously hydrating serums that are perfect for winter-parched skin. Hyaluronic Acid Facial Serum is a classic favorite because it combines glycerin, aloe and hyaluronic acid – three of the best hydrating ingredients in skincare. Peptide Facial Serum is another great choice as it really cares for your barrier function while kick-starting sluggish collagen and bringing all sorts of hydration and protection to the skin’s lower layers.
Take your pick, you really can't go wrong with either.
2. Pair Back The Actives
With little moisture in the air for your skin to enjoy during the winter months, the surface of your skin inevitably becomes more dehydrated, dry and sensitive. Of course, if you’ve managed to crush the perfect moisturizing routine for your skin type, this might not be relevant to you, but for the rest of you, it’s wise to be careful with any active ingredients you apply on a regular basis.
Retinol is the obvious culprit for sensitizing the skin so if you apply a retinol product daily, give yourself a break one or two nights a week, swapping it out for something equally as fabulous for your skin – but not quite as potent. Our Niacinamide Facial Serum, for example, is a great option for nights off as it still targets skin aging but is gentler and contains soothing and hydrating ingredients like vitamin E and hyaluronic acid. It's officially awesome for winter skin.
Vitamin C is another one to be cautious around. Of course, our vitamin C formulations contain a gentle type of vitamin C called sodium ascorbyl phosphate which is very kind to the skin and extremely well tolerated by all skin types, all year round. But if you do find your skin feeling a bit winter worn, give it a break for a few days; concentrate on building moisture and hydration back into your skin instead.
3. Focus On Overnight Repair
Skin naturally produces less sebum overnight, so during winter, when there’s a serious lack of moisture in the air, it’s more important than ever to treat your skin with some nourishing overnight respect.
First up, invest in a bedroom humidifier to combat any dryness in the air caused by your indoor heating. Then focus on a really good, quality night cream.
The best night cream for winter must contain a number of emollient or occlusive ingredients. These create a barrier on the surface of your skin to help prevent moisture loss and protect your skin from drying out as you sleep. Try Vitamin C Deep Hydration Night Cream which balances a whole bunch of botanical oils including organic sunflower, coconut and evening primrose (to name just a few!). It also contains our favorite under-the-radar ingredient, MSM, a naturally-occurring sulfur compound which supports collagen and keratin production while limiting inflammation and protecting your skin from damaging free radicals.
4. Alternate Your Cleanser
Do you love your regular cleanser more than life itself? We hear you. But in the winter, when your skin is a little more compromised than normal, you need to tread very carefully with your cleansing routine.
Cleansers play a pivotal role in your skin’s moisture balance. Go too harsh and you will strip all the life from your skin, leaving it sucked dry and prone to irritation, flaking, itchiness and redness. We recommend gentle cleansing all year round, but in the summertime when your skin is oilier and sweatier it can take a bit more than in the winter.
Our trick, once warm days become a distant memory, is to alternate our go-to cleanser with something more mild and caring, especially for the mornings when all you’re really doing is freshening up your skin and removing any minimal surface debris that’s built up overnight. We reach for Soothing Cleansing Milk every morning in the winter. Dry, sensitive skin is basically its middle name. Plus it feels like a comforting hug for your skin as soon as you apply it. And we are all over that.
5. Stay Sun Safe
One thing you shouldn’t change? Your impeccable sunscreen regime. Just because you can’t see the sun shining away in the sky every day in winter, it doesn’t mean it’s not there. Daylight simply doesn’t exist without the sun, remember that. What’s more, reflective surfaces like snow and ice intensify the sun’s damaging rays by reflecting them right back onto your skin, allowing them to get you from all angles.
Apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen to exposed skin every day – come rain or shine – and go for an SPF of at least 30 to ensure you are well protected from both UVA and UVB radiation. Studies show that, while clouds do protect you from a small percentage of the sun’s UV rays, up to 80 percent of UVA rays (the ones that age you up) are able to penetrate right through.
Make our SPF 30 Mineral Sunscreen with Vitamin C a part of your morning routine and it’ll soon become a habit you don’t even think about. Just like cleaning your teeth and brushing your hair.
Honest Question: Do You Really Need To Switch Up Your Skincare Routine In Winter?
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![The Easiest (But Most Effective!) New Year Skin Goals]()
Incoming... skincare goals that truly make a difference. Count us in.
We don’t know about you, but years of making pointless new year’s resolutions ‘just for the sake of it’ have made us somewhat over them. Sure, it’s great to have ambitions and personal goals to strive for, but forcing yourself to come up with something, just because it’s the start of a new year? That’s a hard pass from us.
Making skincare goals, however, is something we can totally get on board with. And if you’re reading this you’re probably in complete agreement. Because knowing you’re doing your best for your skin – even if you change only one habit or add just one extra product to your routine – is worth a thousand ‘I shall spend less at Starbucks’ false promises.
So, on that note, to follow are some very doable skincare goals for you to totally crush this year.
DO Reassess Your Skin
Your skin is not the same as it was ten years ago. Heck, it’s not even the same as it was this time last year. So, spend a few minutes taking a good, long look in the mirror to see what’s going on. Are you noticing some redness? Maybe a few extra dark spots have appeared? Perhaps your skin is feeling more dehydrated than it used to? Or, wait, is it weirdly oilier?
You can only deal with skin concerns if you actually know what they are, so make sure you’re totally on the ball with where your skin is at right now. Then you’ll be able to act accordingly with targeted skincare and better lifestyle habits.
DON’T Use Cleansing Wipes On The Reg
Face wipes are fine in a pinch but most of them are doused in drying chemicals that do your skin zero good. Granted, they might be called ‘cleansing wipes,’ but rarely do they actually cleanse your skin thoroughly – instead they simply move surface debris around a bit. Then there’s the fact that they’re mostly made from synthetic, non-biodegradable materials which end up hanging around in landfills for up to 100 (no joke!) years.
You might be tired, but make it a priority to cleanse your skin with a decent face wash morning and night. Try Vitamin C Brightening Cleanser which is so delightful, you’ll actually enjoy using it.
DO Moisturize Skin When Damp
You’ll have had undoubtedly heard this trick before, but we bet you don’t actually put it into practice, right? Well, try it. You see, applying moisturizing while your skin is still slightly damp from cleansing helps to seal in those tiny droplets of water that are left hanging around at the surface. It’s basically free moisture your skin will really benefit from – especially during winter when the air is extremely drying on your poor skin. C’mon, when we put it like that, it seems insane not to.
DON’T Give Up On Retinol
Retinol is one of the most effective topical ingredients for the skin. It deals with premature aging, it helps keep acne under control, it protects your skin from environmental damage, it does your laundry. OK, so that last one is a bare-faced lie, but you get where we’re coming from.
The problem with retinol is that its potency can be hard to deal with – especially during the first few weeks when it can make your skin especially dry, red, flaky and even a little itchy. As long as it’s not causing discomfort, however, a little initial irritation is OK, it’s just your skin adjusting, so don’t give up. Simply reduce your frequency of use as your skin acclimates, then build back up again. Easy.
DO Give Your Neck Some Love
You may be meticulous with your facial skincare routine but if your habits stop at your chin, you’re doing yourself a real disservice. How so? Because your neck is one of the first places to show signs of aging.
The skin on your neck has fewer sebaceous glands than your face, you see, which means it can’t produce as much oil to keep it soft and moisturized. This is seriously bad news in the fight against dry skin, fine lines, wrinkles and sagging because moisture is essential for the firmness and elasticity of your skin.
Whatever you do to your face, continue down to your neck and décolletage area. Cleanse it, tone it, treat it with serum, moisturize it (we love Renewing Longevity Moisturizing Cream for the neck area) and protect it from the elements. It’s the least you can do.
DON’T Fret About Your Imperfections
If we asked you to name something you hate about your skin we bet you could reel off a few without taking a breath. Well, do you know what, those crow’s feet you hate or monthly breakouts that drive you crazy are not worth crying over. You’re not perfect. But big deal, who is? So instead of sweating over the bad stuff, do the best you can for your complexion with a consistent skincare and good lifestyle habits. And, instead of feeling all the skin self-hate, try to focus on the good. Sure, you have fine lines around your mouth, but hey, isn’t your forehead looking pretty fabulous?
DO Trash Old Products That Rarely See The Light Of Day
Skincare products do not last forever. In general, they’re usually good for around one year if previously opened or two years if unopened. Unless it says otherwise on the label, of course.
Go through your vanity and trash anything that’s older than two years. Allowing your products to collect dust in the vain hope you might go back to them one day? Not gonna happen.
DON’T Underestimate Your Bedtime Skincare Routine
Sleep time is crucial for your skin. As your brain goes into rest mode, your skin gets super busy. Blood flow increases to nourish it with valuable nutrients; cell turnover accelerates to bring fresh, healthy skin cells to the surface; collagen production revs up big time and your natural antioxidant system kicks it to help nix any free radicals which may have built up during the day.
If you go to bed with unclean, unmoisturized skin, this whole rejuvenation process becomes compromised. So don’t do that. Make sure you’re doing everything you can to ensure your skin is thoroughly cleansed before bed, then apply your favorite serum and moisturize with Vitamin C Deep Hydration Night Cream.
DO Exfoliate More
As you get older, your skin doesn’t turn over as quickly. What does this mean? Well, when you’re in your 20s the life cycle of a skin cell is around 28 days during which time it’s created, moves up to the surface, then dies and sloughs away. Great. As you age, however, this process slows down and dead skin cells get ‘stuck’ at the surface where they cause uneven texture, blocked pores and dull-looking skin.
The good news is that exfoliation helps keep things moving at a more favorable rate, so how about increasing the frequency of your exfoliation game going forward? This can mean anything from once a week to three or four times a week but it depends on your skin so play around to find what works.
Our Vitamin C Gentle Face Scrub is fantastic for gently brightening and exfoliating your skin without drying it out making it ideal for regular use. You could also try our 6% AHA, BHA + PHA Liquid Exfoliant which does without scrubbing particles and instead uses gentle skin acids to slough away dead cells. Neither are a bad choice. Far from it.
DON’T Ignore Sketchy-Looking Moles
Noticed a change in a mole? Get. It. Checked. Out. Moles that change in color, shape, texture or just start to feel or look wrong should always be immediately looked at by a qualified expert to rule out serious concerns such as melanoma. The chances are your mole is totally fine or, at least, can be treated quickly and painlessly, but it’s better to be on top of them.
The Easiest (But Most Effective!) New Year Skin Goals
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