Let’s Talk Retinol: Your Questions Answered
Photo by Andrea Piacquadio from Pexels
Retinol opens up a whole world of confusion for some people. But when it comes to proven anti-aging skincare ingredients it gives us all the feels.
That’s why knowing what it is and, more importantly how to make it work for you, well, that knowledge is priceless. Not sure of the difference between retinol and retinoic acid? Wondering whether a topical retinoid is OK for your super-sensitive skin? Then get comfy, because we have all the answers to your most pressing questions, right here.
Q: First things first, what are retinoids?
A: Retinoids are active, topical forms of vitamin A that can be split into two camps: retinol and tretinoin.
Vitamin A is a fat-soluble vitamin found naturally in eggs, yellow and orange fruit and veggies, liver, fish, cheese and butter. It’s an essential part of a well-balanced diet and helps maintain healthy cell growth while boosting your vision and reproductive and immune systems.
The active form (the one that does all the good stuff) of vitamin A is called retinoic acid and its topical counterpart is called tretinoin. Tretinoin is a clever little prescription-only ingredient that delivers retinoic acid to the skin to stimulate healthy cell turnover for a glowing, more youthful complexion.
Retinol, meanwhile, is an over-the-counter, gentler version of tretinoin that biochemically does the same thing, but must be converted into retinoic acid by the skin before it can get to work. Studies have shown that retinol is 20 times less potent that tretinoin, but it’s considerably kinder on the complexion which why it’s every beauty editor’s/derm’s/celebrity’s favorite anti-aging ingredient.
Still confused? Then just remember this, retinol is the tortoise to tretinoin’s hare.
Q: What are the benefits of using a topical retinoid?
A: When absorbed by the skin, retinoic acid molecules attach themselves to the center of cells where genetic information is stored. Here, they trigger and activate certain genes to increase collagen production and stimulate the skin to turnover more efficiently. This not only helps soften, thicken and plump up the skin but offers no end of benefits for enlarged pores, acne, pigmentation and aging skin.
Research also shows that retinoids have powerful antioxidant properties, which is why many people call them the ultimate miracle-workers. We, on the other hand prefer not to subscribe to such bold promises. Let’s just say they’re up there with the most proven and effective skincare ingredients, shall we?
Q: So, does that mean tretinoin is better than retinol?
A: Yes and no. Tretinoin is only available on prescription and is often advised to patients who are serious about treating fine lines, wrinkles and discolorations. Derms and doctors see tretinoin as the gold standard of retinoids because it’s so pure, but it packs such a retinoic acid punch that it can be hard to tolerate – especially if you have sensitive skin.
This is why we truly believe that over-the-counter products are the cat’s whiskers. Retinol can be just as effective as tretinoin, as long as you shop wisely and are happy to play the long game. Derivatives of retinol such as retinyl palmitate, retinyl propionate, retinyl acetate and retinyl linoleate are super weak and, in our opinion, not worth it. But choose formulas that contain pure retinol and while visible results may take a little longer, you’ll see just as many benefits as you would from a tretinoin product.
Q: If I start using a retinoid regularly, how long will it be before I see improvements in my skin?
A: Tretinoin usually offers visible results at around the three month mark. Retinol, due to its gentler nature, however, may take up to six. The good thing is that retinoids are among the most highly researched ingredients in skincare and show proven, visible results. Unlike other headline-grabbing ingredients that promise the world but fail to deliver, retinoids have been tried and tested for decades. And they work. They just do. But patience is a virtue.
Q: What’s the best way to use topical retinoid?
A: Great question. Retinoids are best used at night because sunlight can deactivate vitamin A. Nighttime use is also advised to reduce any dryness and redness you may experience from the sun. Contrary to popular belief, retinoids themselves are not sun sensitizing, but they do thin the very top layer of your skin to help rid your complexion of pore-clogging dead skin cells. This is a good thing, but it also disrupts the natural protective barrier which is why you should apply it at night, then in the morning wear a daily, broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or above.
Another tip is to start slowly. Most derms agree you should begin with a low concentration of retinol such as 0.5-1.0 percent. Apply it to clean skin every other night to begin with, then as your skin acclimates you can up your application to every night. After a few months, you could also move up to a higher concentration as tolerated. And if your skin feels dry? Then feel free to layer your favorite moisturizer on top.
Q: Is it true you should never apply retinol to damp skin?
A: In a word, no. There’s no real evidence to suggest that applying retinol to damp or wet skin will intensify skin irritation. Nor will it render the ingredient more or less effective. More importantly, you should ensure your skin is clean and well prepped before applying your retinol product. Cleanse thoroughly and gently exfoliate any dry, flaky patches to make way for the fresh skin underneath. This helps the active ingredient penetrate your skin which actually reduces irritation.
Q: Speaking of which, my skin became really dry and irritated after introducing retinol into my skincare routine, should I stop?
A: Dryness, flaking and slight redness are part of what’s called the purging process, so don’t worry, this is very normal. Skin purging is just your skin reacting to the active retinol which accelerates the exfoliation process and promotes skin cells to turnover quicker than normal. This is great for the health, look and feel of your skin in the long run, but can temporarily exacerbate redness, irritation and scaling.
The good news, however, is these side-effects are temporary so try to push through them. There are also a few tricks to help you avoid them in the first place. First, slowly introduce retinol into your routine to allow your skin to adjust – and yes, once a week is OK. Then you can up the frequency by one day per week as your skin becomes more tolerant. If the irritation continues or gets worse, take your usage back down again and/or try a super-low concentration – we’re talking 0.5 or even 0.3 percent.
Still struggling? Then speak to a skincare expert because retinol might not be for you. There are plenty of other effective skincare ingredients that are more tolerable for sensitive skin like niacinamide, aloe vera or hyaluronic acid.
Q: Can I use retinol with other active skincare ingredients like vitamin C?
A: Combining active skincare ingredients can sometimes have disastrous effects if left in the wrong hands. But that is the key because if you know what you’re doing or better still, leave it to the experts, the results from ingredient cocktailing can be glorious.
Take retinol and vitamin C, for example. Studies have shown that, together, this little power couple offers visible benefits to aging skin such as an improvement in texture and tone, plus a notable reduction in photodamage – aka hyperpigmentation. Retinol and vitamin C are both proven antioxidants and work well to defend the skin against the damaging effects of the sun. We actually combine them with hyaluronic acid and niacinamide in our Vitamin C-Plus Super Serum for a potent, but surprisingly gentle fix of skin-loving actives.
As a side-note, retinol also combines well with AHAs and BHAs like glycolic and salicylic acids. In fact, like John Krasinski and Emily Blunt, they bring out the best in each other to increase turnover and leave you with healthy, glowing skin.
Q: At what age should I start regularly using a retinol product?
A: This depends on each individual because everyone’s skin ages at different rates based on their genes, lifestyle, diet and overall health. Someone living the high-life in the full California sun may find their skin ages at a much faster rate than someone of the same age living in less sunnier climes, for example. That being said, most experts agree that somewhere in your mid to late 20s is ideal, but you know your skin and it’s never too early (nor too late)…
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![The Pros & Cons Of Retinol Sandwiching]()
Heard about retinol sandwiching but clueless about what it is or whether you should be getting on that train immediately? Here’s what we know…
Retinol offers an incredible solution to many skin woes. Hate your monthly breakouts? Try retinol. Worried about wrinkles catching up on you way too quickly? Retinol’s your guy. It’s true, retinol is the gold standard in skincare ingredients – just ask your dermatologist; we’d put a lot of money on them being in complete agreement.
But retinol isn’t all moonlight and roses. In fact, many people find that it’s pretty devilish on their skin, causing all sorts of irritating side effects that, frankly, make it not worth the hassle. You know the score, think redness, itching, flaky skin and extreme dryness.
This is why you’ll see countless blog posts and viral videos about how best to make retinol work for your skin type without causing all the bad stuff. Spoiler alert: if you choose the right formulation and apply it slowly and carefully, most skin types can totally appreciate the benefits retinol has to offer.
Reckon you’ve tried all the tricks but still can’t get on with retinol on a regular basis? Then you have options. The first is to try bakuchiol which is a natural and far gentler alternative to retinol. We’re huge advocates of this just-as-awesome ingredient as it works in a similar way to retinol, encouraging cell turnover and accelerating collagen production. In fact, we love it so much that we based an entire collection of healthy aging formulations around it. Check out the range here.
The other options is to try retinol sandwiching, a ‘trend’ that #BeautyTok is all over, but one which, in fact, has been around for many years…
What Is Retinol Sandwiching?
Retinol usually comes in the form of a serum which is applied to cleansed skin before moisturizer. Retinol sandwiching, however, switches things up. Don’t worry though, it’s nothing too tricky but is a very easy technique. You simply apply moisturizer before your retinol serum, then another layer afterwards, creating the proverbial sandwich effect with the retinol being your filling and moisturizer the bread.
Why Is Retinol Sandwiching A Thing?
As skincare ingredients go, retinol is arguably the best but, as we previously mentioned, its benefits are often outnumbered by its downsides – especially if you have particularly sensitive skin. Of course, introducing it slowly into your skincare routine is a great way to reduce the risks of unwanted side effects because this allows your skin to acclimate to such a potent powerhouse.
And there are many other ways to help you reduce irritation. One of which is the retinol sandwich.
Not to be taken literally (please don’t smother retinol serum over your favorite sourdough – like, ever), retinol sandwiching is particularly good for dry skin but can be a useful tool for reducing all kinds of irritation and sensitivities.
Why is the retinol sandwich so good for the skin? Well, it creates a kind of buffering effect, adding a layer of product between your skin and the retinol which helps to slow down its absorption and reduce its potency. Not to mention the added moisturization as an extra bonus. All this means that you’ll likely be able to use your retinol serum more frequently.
Does Sandwiching Make Retinol Less Effective?
Yes. Most moisturizers contain oils and water which kind of ‘dilute’ the retinol, making it weaker and less effective. But if you’re choosing to make yourself a retinol sandwich, you’re probably doing so because you have sensitive skin and want to reduce the irritation it may potentially cause. So making it weaker is kind of the point, right?
Is Retinol Sandwiching Right For Your Skin Type?
Honestly? That’s a question only you can answer. The truth is, if you use it wisely, most retinol formulas can be successfully built into your skincare routine without the sandwich method. That being said, nobody knows your skin better than you, so if you feel it may help you to enjoy the benefits of retinol, there’s no harm in trying.
All we can say is that if you want to give it a go, make sure to choose the right moisturizer for the job. Here’s a quick checklist for you.
✅ Go for a lightweight lotion. This will be better than a rich, heavy cream because it will at least allow a little of the retinol to get through to the surface of your skin.
❎ Avoid moisturizer that contains potent, active ingredients. Certain ingredients may react with the retinol and actually increase your chances of redness and irritation.
✅ Look out for gentle hydrating ingredients. Things like hyaluronic acid, glycerin and aloe vera are your friends here.
Other Tips For Making Retinol Work For You
1. Always Patch Test Retinol First
Yes, patch testing is boring and certainly not for the impatient, but it’s important and a great way to know whether a certain ingredient is going to be the right match for your skin. Patch test any new retinol product on a discreet area of your skin first. Then leave it for 48 hours to check for adverse reactions before using it as recommended.
2. Use It On Dry Skin
Many ingredients play well on damp skin but moisture can increase the absorption of retinol, simultaneously increasing the chances of irritation. Better to be safe by applying it to skin that's dry.
3. Go Slow And Go Steady
We’re all about the 1-2-3 retinol rule. When starting out, apply your product once a week only, for one week. Then apply it twice a week for two weeks and finally, go for three times a week for three weeks. This helps your skin build tolerance and allows you to eventually be able to apply it every night.
4. Apply Sunscreen Every Morning
Don’t let damaging UV radiation screw up all that fresh new skin retinol is helping to bring to the surface. Generously apply SPF 30 Mineral Sunscreen every morning as the final step in your routine.
But you knew that. Didn't you? DIDN'T YOU?
The Pros & Cons Of Retinol Sandwiching
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![Honest Question: Do You Really Need To Switch Up Your Skincare Routine In Winter?]()
Consistency is our favorite word when it comes to a boss skincare routine. So why should you mess with yours just because the weather’s changed? Simple, because, er, the weather has changed.
Whether you subscribe to seasonal skincare or not, one thing’s for sure, skin becomes drier and more sensitive in the winter time.
Winter, for most of us, means colder, drier weather which can be tough for your delicate skin to take. Extreme temperatures – especially when you flip-flop between frigid temperatures outdoors and balmy ones inside – stress out your skin and compromise its critical barrier function. Then there’s the lack of humidity which starves your skin of vital moisture and, well, stresses out your skin and barrier function even further.
However, as you know, we’re all about sticking with a consistent skincare routine, all year round. So what should you do in winter to ensure you’re not causing potential upset to your tried and tested routine, but you’re still giving your skin the extra care it needs to make it through the chilly months?
The answer: make small tweaks rather than massive changes. Here's how.
1. Add In An Extra Layer Of Moisture
A certain level of dryness and dehydration is pretty much a given in the winter months – whatever your skin type – but if you’re like us and hate to give up your trusted moisturizer, the good news is, you don’t have to. Instead, layer up by applying a thirst-quenching serum underneath your regular moisturizer each morning. This will help draw water to the surface of your skin, giving it a much-needed boost without having to apply an overly rich moisturizing cream (which, let’s face it, can ruin your makeup!).
We have tons of fabulously hydrating serums that are perfect for winter-parched skin. Hyaluronic Acid Facial Serum is a classic favorite because it combines glycerin, aloe and hyaluronic acid – three of the best hydrating ingredients in skincare. Peptide Facial Serum is another great choice as it really cares for your barrier function while kick-starting sluggish collagen and bringing all sorts of hydration and protection to the skin’s lower layers.
Take your pick, you really can't go wrong with either.
2. Pair Back The Actives
With little moisture in the air for your skin to enjoy during the winter months, the surface of your skin inevitably becomes more dehydrated, dry and sensitive. Of course, if you’ve managed to crush the perfect moisturizing routine for your skin type, this might not be relevant to you, but for the rest of you, it’s wise to be careful with any active ingredients you apply on a regular basis.
Retinol is the obvious culprit for sensitizing the skin so if you apply a retinol product daily, give yourself a break one or two nights a week, swapping it out for something equally as fabulous for your skin – but not quite as potent. Our Niacinamide Facial Serum, for example, is a great option for nights off as it still targets skin aging but is gentler and contains soothing and hydrating ingredients like vitamin E and hyaluronic acid. It's officially awesome for winter skin.
Vitamin C is another one to be cautious around. Of course, our vitamin C formulations contain a gentle type of vitamin C called sodium ascorbyl phosphate which is very kind to the skin and extremely well tolerated by all skin types, all year round. But if you do find your skin feeling a bit winter worn, give it a break for a few days; concentrate on building moisture and hydration back into your skin instead.
3. Focus On Overnight Repair
Skin naturally produces less sebum overnight, so during winter, when there’s a serious lack of moisture in the air, it’s more important than ever to treat your skin with some nourishing overnight respect.
First up, invest in a bedroom humidifier to combat any dryness in the air caused by your indoor heating. Then focus on a really good, quality night cream.
The best night cream for winter must contain a number of emollient or occlusive ingredients. These create a barrier on the surface of your skin to help prevent moisture loss and protect your skin from drying out as you sleep. Try Vitamin C Deep Hydration Night Cream which balances a whole bunch of botanical oils including organic sunflower, coconut and evening primrose (to name just a few!). It also contains our favorite under-the-radar ingredient, MSM, a naturally-occurring sulfur compound which supports collagen and keratin production while limiting inflammation and protecting your skin from damaging free radicals.
4. Alternate Your Cleanser
Do you love your regular cleanser more than life itself? We hear you. But in the winter, when your skin is a little more compromised than normal, you need to tread very carefully with your cleansing routine.
Cleansers play a pivotal role in your skin’s moisture balance. Go too harsh and you will strip all the life from your skin, leaving it sucked dry and prone to irritation, flaking, itchiness and redness. We recommend gentle cleansing all year round, but in the summertime when your skin is oilier and sweatier it can take a bit more than in the winter.
Our trick, once warm days become a distant memory, is to alternate our go-to cleanser with something more mild and caring, especially for the mornings when all you’re really doing is freshening up your skin and removing any minimal surface debris that’s built up overnight. We reach for Soothing Cleansing Milk every morning in the winter. Dry, sensitive skin is basically its middle name. Plus it feels like a comforting hug for your skin as soon as you apply it. And we are all over that.
5. Stay Sun Safe
One thing you shouldn’t change? Your impeccable sunscreen regime. Just because you can’t see the sun shining away in the sky every day in winter, it doesn’t mean it’s not there. Daylight simply doesn’t exist without the sun, remember that. What’s more, reflective surfaces like snow and ice intensify the sun’s damaging rays by reflecting them right back onto your skin, allowing them to get you from all angles.
Apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen to exposed skin every day – come rain or shine – and go for an SPF of at least 30 to ensure you are well protected from both UVA and UVB radiation. Studies show that, while clouds do protect you from a small percentage of the sun’s UV rays, up to 80 percent of UVA rays (the ones that age you up) are able to penetrate right through.
Make our SPF 30 Mineral Sunscreen with Vitamin C a part of your morning routine and it’ll soon become a habit you don’t even think about. Just like cleaning your teeth and brushing your hair.
Honest Question: Do You Really Need To Switch Up Your Skincare Routine In Winter?
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