The Truth About Collagen

One wish: to enjoy the tight, gravity-defying skin of 20 years ago. Sadly, it’s not going to happen, so the next best thing? Skincare ingredients that boost collagen and help your skin appear subtly firmer and just a tad more lifted.

Let’s get one thing straight: skincare cannot perform miracles. We’d love to be able to tell you that our new Caffeine Facial Serum can give you the skin of someone 30 years your junior or that our Vitamin C Gentle Face Scrub will eradicate every single one of your much-loathed dark spots after just one use. But we’d be lying. Skincare is awesome, absolutely. And yes, it can 100 percent help to subtly improve the appearance of acne breakouts, wrinkles and aging skin. But it has its limits. And knowing that your favorite moisturizer or prized facial serum can only do so much is crucial. Otherwise, you will always be disappointed. And that’s not what we want for you.

OK, so now this bombshell is out of the way and you understand that skincare ingredients aren’t going to give you an instant facelift or smooth out your laughter lines like fillers or Botox, here’s what they can do.

Choose the right formulation, crafted with thoughtful, clinically-proven ingredients, and skincare can very much improve the look, feel and health of your skin. And if you’ve ever woken up after trying a new serum for the first time, only to be greeted in the mirror by visibly brighter skin, you’ll know exactly what we’re talking about.

So, which ingredients should you pin your hopes on if you’re specifically looking to lift and firm sagging skin? Well, skin starts to go south because of dwindling collagen supplies so boosting collagen production is your first and best bet. Bearing in mind everything we’ve just said about managing expectations, therefore, here are five topical favorites we believe are the most effective for encouraging healthy collagen and helping you on the road to firmer, more toned skin.

1. Peptides

Without blinding you with science, peptides are chemical compounds made from amino acids. They’re very similar to proteins, but where proteins are large molecules made up of long chains of amino acids, peptides are their baby cousins, containing much shorter chains. Why is this of interest? Because due to their similarity, peptides have the smart ability of being able to penetrate the skin where they work like little messengers, signaling for your cells to produce more proteins. And which protein is most abundant in your skin? Yes, you got it, collagen.

In simple terms, applying topical peptides encourages your cells to keep on producing collagen (and elastin, for that matter), thus helping to counteract the skin’s inevitable loss of this vital protein and staving off all that comes with it ­– namely wrinkles, lines and sagging skin.

Try: Firming Collagen Day Lotion which contains vegan collagen peptides, amongst other skincare powerhouses like ceramides, green algae, vitamin E and aloe.

2. Retinol

When it comes to boosting your skin’s supply of healthy collagen very few topical ingredients trump retinol. Ask your derm or any skincare expert and we bet 1,000 bucks they will agree. So, what makes it so darn good? Well, it’s been studied for decades and it never fails to deliver the same skin-regenerating results. You see, retinol has an innate ability to communicate with your skin at a deep cellular level to encourage a speedier production of collagen and elastin in a bid to heal and strengthen your skin. Simple as. Well, it’s not that simple, but that’s all you really need to know.

Of course, retinol isn’t for everyone – it’s so good, it can be a tad irritating for some skin types – but if you used it slowly and carefully, always patch testing it first, you’ll find it can be a fantastic way to help keep your skin firm and youthful-looking for years to come.

Try: Retinol Facial Serum which has been formulated with hyaluronic acid and vitamin E, helping it to be as gentle on your skin as possible.

3. Bakuchiol

If retinol isn’t for you but you’re looking for something that does almost the exact same thing and offers very similar results, allow us to introduce you to bakuchiol.

One of the newest ingredients to the skincare world (but an absolute keeper unlike other ridiculous ingredients that are all fluff and no function), bakuchiol is nature’s best alternative to retinol. How so? Because it works just like its long-running counterpart, stimulating collagen synthesis and accelerating cellular turnover at a deep, below-the-surface level.

Bakuchiol is extracted from the seeds and leaves of the babchi plant and has been used for centuries in Chinese and Ayurvedic medicine. The reason it’s gained such momentum in Western skincare recently is that, granted, it's very similar to retinol, but more importantly it comes with way fewer unwanted side effects. Of course, its gentle nature means it works more slowly but if you sensitive skin and have patience, bakuchiol is a great choice for fighting the visible signs of aging –including sagging skin but certainly not stopping there!

Try: Rejuvenating Longevity Serum which combines bakuchiol with antioxidant-rich lingonberry stem cells and snow algae.

4. Vitamin C

If you don’t know by now how awesome vitamin C is then we’ve been doing something wrong! In our minds, this antioxidant wonder kid can do no wrong.

Like retinol, vitamin C is one of the most trusted and clinically-proven ingredients in the entire world of skincare. It’s known mainly for providing brightening benefits but never forget what an excellent antioxidant it is, offering the absolute best in environmental protection by neutralizing free radicals before they get a chance to destroy collagen – and believe us, that is exactly what free radicals will do if you don’t get in there first.

But it's not just vitamin C's antioxidant prowess that’s crucial for preventing collagen and elastin breakdown. Its highly acidic nature also works hard to boost your collagen and elastin levels. So there’s that.

Try: Vitamin C Deep Hydration Night Cream which gives your skin a delicious overnight boost of protective vitamin C, along with skin-loving botanical oils like jojoba, rosehip and evening primrose.

5. MSM

Sure, we’re all about vitamin C for president here at TruSkin, but another of our skin-firming favorites comes in the form of methylsulfonylmethane, or MSM to friends like you.

Very well tolerated by even the most sensitive of skin types, MSM is a naturally-occurring form of sulfur. And if you didn’t know, sulfur is one of the most important elements in the human body, often touted as the ‘beauty’ or ‘healing’ mineral.

What does that mean for sagging skin? Yeah, we’re getting to that. And the answer is simple: MSM plays a key role in the production and composition of collagen and keratin. Its anti-inflammatory qualities also help decrease damage to the skin caused by lifestyle aggressors like stress, lack of sleep and a sugar or carb-heavy diet. Oh, and as an extra sidenote, MSM also boosts the body’s production of glutathione which is one of your most important, naturally-occurring antioxidants. Take that free radicals!

Try: Vitamin C Super Serum+ which partners MSM with its bestie, vitamin C. Why do they love each other so? Because vitamin C helps the skin readily absorb MSM, thus doubling up their combined collagen-boosting effects.

Heard about retinol sandwiching but clueless about what it is or whether you should be getting on that train immediately? Here’s what we know…

Retinol offers an incredible solution to many skin woes. Hate your monthly breakouts? Try retinol. Worried about wrinkles catching up on you way too quickly? Retinol’s your guy. It’s true, retinol is the gold standard in skincare ingredients – just ask your dermatologist; we’d put a lot of money on them being in complete agreement.

But retinol isn’t all moonlight and roses. In fact, many people find that it’s pretty devilish on their skin, causing all sorts of irritating side effects that, frankly, make it not worth the hassle. You know the score, think redness, itching, flaky skin and extreme dryness.

This is why you’ll see countless blog posts and viral videos about how best to make retinol work for your skin type without causing all the bad stuff. Spoiler alert: if you choose the right formulation and apply it slowly and carefully, most skin types can totally appreciate the benefits retinol has to offer.

Reckon you’ve tried all the tricks but still can’t get on with retinol on a regular basis? Then you have options. The first is to try bakuchiol which is a natural and far gentler alternative to retinol. We’re huge advocates of this just-as-awesome ingredient as it works in a similar way to retinol, encouraging cell turnover and accelerating collagen production. In fact, we love it so much that we based an entire collection of healthy aging formulations around it. Check out the range here.

The other options is to try retinol sandwiching, a ‘trend’ that #BeautyTok is all over, but one which, in fact, has been around for many years…

What Is Retinol Sandwiching?

Retinol usually comes in the form of a serum which is applied to cleansed skin before moisturizer. Retinol sandwiching, however, switches things up. Don’t worry though, it’s nothing too tricky but is a very easy technique. You simply apply moisturizer before your retinol serum, then another layer afterwards, creating the proverbial sandwich effect with the retinol being your filling and moisturizer the bread.

Why Is Retinol Sandwiching A Thing?

As skincare ingredients go, retinol is arguably the best but, as we previously mentioned, its benefits are often outnumbered by its downsides – especially if you have particularly sensitive skin. Of course, introducing it slowly into your skincare routine is a great way to reduce the risks of unwanted side effects because this allows your skin to acclimate to such a potent powerhouse.  

And there are many other ways to help you reduce irritation. One of which is the retinol sandwich.

Not to be taken literally (please don’t smother retinol serum over your favorite sourdough – like, ever), retinol sandwiching is particularly good for dry skin but can be a useful tool for reducing all kinds of irritation and sensitivities.

Why is the retinol sandwich so good for the skin? Well, it creates a kind of buffering effect, adding a layer of product between your skin and the retinol which helps to slow down its absorption and reduce its potency. Not to mention the added moisturization as an extra bonus. All this means that you’ll likely be able to use your retinol serum more frequently.

Does Sandwiching Make Retinol Less Effective?

Yes. Most moisturizers contain oils and water which kind of ‘dilute’ the retinol, making it weaker and less effective. But if you’re choosing to make yourself a retinol sandwich, you’re probably doing so because you have sensitive skin and want to reduce the irritation it may potentially cause. So making it weaker is kind of the point, right?

Is Retinol Sandwiching Right For Your Skin Type?

Honestly? That’s a question only you can answer. The truth is, if you use it wisely, most retinol formulas can be successfully built into your skincare routine without the sandwich method. That being said, nobody knows your skin better than you, so if you feel it may help you to enjoy the benefits of retinol, there’s no harm in trying.

All we can say is that if you want to give it a go, make sure to choose the right moisturizer for the job. Here’s a quick checklist for you.

✅ Go for a lightweight lotion. This will be better than a rich, heavy cream because it will at least allow a little of the retinol to get through to the surface of your skin.

❎ Avoid moisturizer that contains potent, active ingredients. Certain ingredients may react with the retinol and actually increase your chances of redness and irritation.

✅ Look out for gentle hydrating ingredients. Things like hyaluronic acid, glycerin and aloe vera are your friends here.

Other Tips For Making Retinol Work For You

1. Always Patch Test Retinol First

Yes, patch testing is boring and certainly not for the impatient, but it’s important and a great way to know whether a certain ingredient is going to be the right match for your skin. Patch test any new retinol product on a discreet area of your skin first. Then leave it for 48 hours to check for adverse reactions before using it as recommended.

2. Use It On Dry Skin

Many ingredients play well on damp skin but moisture can increase the absorption of retinol, simultaneously increasing the chances of irritation. Better to be safe by applying it to skin that's dry.

3. Go Slow And Go Steady

We’re all about the 1-2-3 retinol rule. When starting out, apply your product once a week only, for one week. Then apply it twice a week for two weeks and finally, go for three times a week for three weeks. This helps your skin build tolerance and allows you to eventually be able to apply it every night.

4. Apply Sunscreen Every Morning

Don’t let damaging UV radiation screw up all that fresh new skin retinol is helping to bring to the surface. Generously apply SPF 30 Mineral Sunscreen every morning as the final step in your routine. 

But you knew that. Didn't you? DIDN'T YOU?

If you suffer with regular breakouts we bet you often wonder about the best skincare ingredients for acne. Well, wonder no more, we got you.

Acne breakouts, whatever your age, are no joke. They can be frustrating, confidence-destroying, challenging and sometimes downright painful. Nobody wants that. But sometimes life just deals you a bad hand, and being prone to breakouts (or not) is exactly that. You don’t get pimples, blackheads and whiteheads because you have poor personal hygiene or eat too much chocolate. You get them because your genes dictate the makeup up of your skin and, in this case, are encouraging it to produce too much oil. This excess oil (or, more specifically, sebum) then teams up with dead skin cells and bacteria to have a party in your pores, leading to all sorts of congestion and potential breakouts.

Granted, it’s all well and good knowing your pimples aren’t your fault, but this doesn’t make them go away. So what can you do to control oil production, balance your skin and help keep zits from upsetting your mojo? Well, understanding what you put on your skin and, more specifically, knowing which skincare ingredients mean business is a great place to start.

Behold the best ingredients for acne-prone skin – in our (and most skin experts') humble opinion.

Tea Tree Oil

Tea tree oil is an essential oil that’s steam distilled from the leaves of the melaleuca alternifolia (tea) tree. Chock full of antibacterial and anti-inflammatory qualities, it’s been used for centuries to heal the skin, and as an acne-fighter, it’s pretty unstoppable.

Exactly how does tea tree oil work on acne? For starters, it works hard to kill certain acne-causing bacteria that sit on the surface of the skin. Couple this with its ability to calm redness, reduce swelling and soothe irritation and it becomes a great choice for anyone wanting to deal with breakouts with a natural, effective skincare ingredient.

Word to the wise, however, tea tree oil is full-on potent so you should never apply it in its purest form. Instead, leave it to the pros to curate an effective formulation you can use every day.

Try: Tea Tree Super Cleanser+

Salicylic Acid

Keeping your skin ticking over is super important if you’re susceptible to the slings and arrows of blocked pores and acne breakouts. When your skin fails to turn over at a reasonable rate, dead skin cells get stuck at the surface, where they love to hang out in your pores causing total havoc. 

As you may know, the rate at which your skin turns over seriously slows down as you get older. This is why it’s super important to kick-start this process with exfoliation. Scrubs are great for removing dead skin cells and encouraging the skin to turn over more efficiently, but to really tackle acne-prone skin, your best bet is to choose skincare containing salicylic acid.

Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) which means it’s a oil-soluble chemical exfoliant. Hydroxy acids work by breaking down the bonds between your skin cells so they slough away easily and make way for the new stuff. However, unlike glycolic acid, which is a water-soluble alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), BHAs cut through grease which gives them the extra edge with oily skin, allowing them to truly work on your sebaceous glands and balance oil production. 

Another point in salicylic acid’s favor? It has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties. And if you have angry pimples or facial redness, you’re so going to want to get in on that.

Try: 6% AHA, BHA + PHA Liquid Exfoliant

Retinol

A go-to in the skin aging world, retinol, a topical form of vitamin A, also offers some pretty impressive results for acne-prone skin. Who knew? Well, we did, but then again that’s what we’re paid for! 

Similar to exfoliating acids ­­– although it works very differently to salicylic acid and friends – retinol promotes cell turnover to ensure your pores stay clear of unwanted dead skin cells. Instead of breaking down the bonds between dead skin cells, however, retinol works by attaching itself to nuclear receptors in the center of each living cell where it activates certain genes to accelerate turnover.

It might not be the most obvious choice for when your skin breaks out, but use it on a regular basis and it’s been proven to reduce the frequency and improve the severity of breakouts. Plus, if you’re of a certain age, you get all the added age-fighting benefits as an added bonus. Put like that, it seems silly not to.

Try: Retinol Moisturizer

Niacinamide

If you’re stuck with the double-whammy of acne and sensitive skin, you’ll know only too well how difficult it is to find skincare formulations that improve your breakouts but don’t irritate your skin. The struggle is real. However, it’s not impossible. And one ingredient that should top your must-tries? Niacinamide.

Niacinamide (vitamin B3) is one of the most effective active ingredients for sensitive skin. It also makes the list for best ingredients for acne-prone skin. And that’s no mean feat.

As well as being one of our favorite antioxidants, working hard to counteract the damaging effects of environmental free radicals, niacinamide also increases the production of ceramides in the skin’s uppermost layers. Ceramides enable the skin to remain strong, supple, hydrated and able to protect itself from unwanted irritation. Sweet.

But what about acne breakouts? Which is why we’re here, after all. Well, niacinamide has been proven to reduce inflammation (check), regulate sebum production (check) and it can even help minimize the appearance of enlarged pores when used regularly and together with a great cleansing regime. Research also shows it may have antimicrobial effects, helping to destroy acne-causing bacteria that may be lurking in your skin’s microbiome. Hells yeah!

Try: Niacinamide (B3) Facial Serum

Finally, A Few Important Things To Remember

1. Always patch test new ingredients on a small area of skin before regular, all-over use. Not sure how to do this? No problem, here's a guide on how to patch test your skincare products.

2. Introduce potent, active ingredients gradually into your skincare regime. Start once or twice a week to begin with, then build slowly as your skin acclimates. This will allow the product to work its magic with fewer risks of irritation.

3. Apply broad-spectrum sunscreen every day, without fail. Active ingredients encourage fresh skin cells to the surface, so they need extra TLC to protect them from UV damage. No arguments.

4. Don’t expect miracles overnight. Skincare formulations that treat at a deeper level aren’t an immediate fix so be patient and give them the time they deserve ­– two to three months is usually the sweet spot.

5. Skincare alone may not be enough to manage persistent or severe acne, so consider seeking professional help from a dermatologist if yours simply won’t go away.

Serums can truly supercharge your skincare routine – especially if you know how to maximize their effectiveness. Here’s how…

We believe your face serum should be one of your most prized skincare possessions. Of course, daily sunscreen is crucial, and yes, your cleanser provides the foundation to everything that follows. But a face serum is the key to targeting everything you love (and maybe don’t love so much) about your skin. Whether you want to improve hydration, deal with breakouts, soften fine lines or brighten tired skin, the right face serum can help fix the lot.

Speaking of the ‘right’ face serum, finding your perfect fit is vital, but let us ask you this: do you feel like you’ve found the one... yet it’s kind of underperforming? Then it’s probably not the serum that’s the issue. Instead, it’s likely the way you’re using it.

So let’s fix that, shall we?

Your Serum Strategy 101

Think of your face serum as the VIP in your skincare routine. Because yes, it's that special. Plus, it’s likely to have cost more than most of your other products, so it’d be foolish not to fuel yourself with the knowledge of how to use it effectively. 

Here are the face serum rules we follow to the letter…

When To Use Your Face Serum

The correct order in which to apply ALL of your skincare products matters. A lot. And the general rule of thumb is that you should always work with your products from thin to thick; from water to oil. 

This means that cleanser comes first (obvs!), then toner, serum, eye cream and finally moisturizer. If you apply serum after your moisturizer, on the other hand, the rich, slightly heavier nature of moisturizer will block the serum from the surface of your skin. And this will immediately make it less effective. That’s what we call money down the drain.

Serum BEFORE moisturizer, people. Always.

How Much Face Serum Should You Use?

Face serums are super lightweight due to their small molecular structure. This means they’re able to carry a high intensity of concentrated, active ingredients in a relatively thin, slippery formulation. This is crucial because it gives serum the ability to penetrate the skin more effectively than thicker, more viscous formulations like moisturizer and facial oil.

Thanks to their slippery nature, face serums smooth over your skin like a dream – well, a good one does, anyway;). Sure, it’s tempting to smother your face in it because you think your skin will end up reaping more benefits from all those awesome ingredients. But that’s a mistake because, the truth is, your skin can only soak up so much.

A reputable serum will always come with guidelines on how much to use, but a pea-sized amount, or roughly two to three drops, should generally be sufficient for your face and neck. Any more will simply be a waste.

5 Ways To Make Your Face Serum Work Harder

Because it's not just what you apply, but the way in which you apply it...

1. Exfoliate First

If the surface of your skin is clogged up with dead skin cells, your face serum stands no chance of penetrating at a deeper level. And this means it won’t work so well. So make sure you exfoliate regularly to create an easier pathway for your serum to go about its business.

A gentle scrub two or three times a week is a great shout, but if you’re not keen on face scrubs, try a leave-on chemical exfoliant that uses ingredients like glycolic acid and/or salicylic acid to dissolve the ‘glue’ that holds dead skin cells together. 

Try: 6% AHA, BHA + PHA Liquid Exfoliant

2. Nail The Damp Skin Technique

Serums are able to penetrate the skin better if your skin has a bit of moisture present at its surface. Why? Because damp skin is more permeable, easy as that.

The trick is to apply a couple of drops to your hand as quickly as you can after cleansing or toning your skin. Then apply serum all over your face and neck using clean hands and light pressing motions. Not only will your skin be more receptive to all those fabulous ingredients but you’ll also lock in a little extra moisture while you’re at it. Win win.

One word of warning, however. If you have sensitive skin, you might actually be better off applying your serum to dry skin to reduce irritation. But play around, see what works best for you.

3. Understand That Your Skin’s Needs Vary From Morning To Night

Just like your entire body, your skin’s needs are very much governed by time. Cell turnover, for example, is at its peak during the night, while you’re asleep. This means that instead of using a sun protective antioxidant serum before bed, it’s much better to encourage repair and regeneration with ingredients like retinol, peptides and growth factors. Sebum production also slows down at night so it's similarly wise to enlist in some help sealing in hydration.

Meanwhile, your levels of cortisol are at their highest when you wake up, so anti-inflammatory serums that contain ingredients like niacinamide and vitamin E are better as part of your morning routine. Skin brightening and awakening ingredients like caffeine and vitamin C are also more beneficial first thing when you’ll be able to maximize – and actually see! – their revitalizing effects. And obviously antioxidants that help to protect your skin from environmental harm are crucial every morning.

Try: Day Night Duo with Vitamin C and Retinol Facial Serums

4. Wait A Hot Minute Before Applying Moisturizer

While it’s great to apply face serum swiftly after cleansing and/or toning, it’s wise to wait 60 seconds or so between your serum and moisturizer. Most serum formulations will sink in super fast but still, giving the formulation a short while to fully absorb and dry helps it to really settle into your skin.

5. Give Your Face Serum Enough Time To Work

Serums aren’t miracle workers that instantly make wrinkles vanish overnight. On the contrary, for real results, you’ll need to consistently apply yours for at least six to eight weeks before you’ll even begin to see their true effects.

Saying that, don’t rush in without patch testing any new formulation first. Then, if you’re good to go, make sure to introduce it slowly into your routine. This will give your skin time to adjust, thereby reducing your chances of irritation. It’ll also stop you from giving up too soon!

Check out our line-up of awesome serums right here. And if you don’t know which one is right for you, here’s a helpful guide.