Yes, You Should Try Retinol… But There Are Rules
It’s official, retinol is the business for upgrading the tone, texture and general gorgeousness of your skin. But it’s a powerful force so it requires respect.
Retinol. Boy is it good. So good that it almost certainly deserves a spot in your skincare routine. Do you have fine lines and wrinkles you’d like to soften the look of? Retinol’s your guy. Do you have dark spots you’d love to brighten? Again, retinol can help take care of those. And what about acne breakouts? Are they more frequent than you’d like? Hello retinol.
No matter your skin goals, retinol usually has your back. And even if you have sensitive skin, there are ways of seamlessly working it into your routine without too many repercussions. You simply have to know (and follow) a few important rules.
Rule #1: If It’s New, Patch Test It First
We get it, patch testing your skincare is yawnsome. But when it comes to active ingredients like retinol, it’s crucial. Because of all the over-the-counter ingredients you apply to your skin retinol is one of the most potent so, although unlikely, it could easily cause irritation, itching, stinging or burning.
Anyway, in the grand scheme of things, patch testing isn’t really that bad. You just need to employ a little bit of a patience. And we know you’ve got that in you. C’mon, it’s only 48 hours.
To patch test, apply a small amount of retinol to a discreet area of your skin like behind your ears, then monitor it for a couple of days. Chances are you’ll be fine and you can start to incorporate it into your routine. However, any uncomfortable reactions that feel worse than a bit of mild redness or tingling means the two of you are not a good match and you should not be using it. Sorry about that.
Rule #2: Apply It To Clean, Dry Skin
Some ingredients play really well with damp skin (hyaluronic acid and glycerin to name just two), but retinol is too powerful for that so we always advise you to apply it to clean, dry skin. Better yet, wait a few minutes after cleansing and toning and then apply it. This further cuts down your risks of irritation.
Rule #3: Remember, Slow & Steady Wins The Race
If your skin is not used to retinol, you simply have to start slowly so it gets used to the great powers that it contains. One of the biggest mistakes people make when using a retinol serum or moisturizer for the first time is to apply it every day. And that’s asking for trouble. You know that potential irritation we’ve been harping on about? Yeah that.
The rule is this: start slowly, employing the 1-2-3 step retinol rule. Step 1. Apply your product once a week for a week. Step 2. Apply it twice a week for two weeks. And step 3. Apply it three times a week for three weeks, spacing out your applications as equally as possible. If, at any time during these six weeks your skin feels irritated (yes, that word again!), return to the previous step until your skin acclimates. Then continue as you were. This whole process may take you up to three months but that’s OK, going slow will totally be worth it in the long run.
Rule #4: Try Sandwiching Retinol With Moisturizer
If you have dry, dehydrated or sensitive skin, a retinol sandwich might be right up your alley. And this technique is super simple. You just layer your retinol between two layers of kind-to-skin moisturizer. So after cleansing and toning, you apply a gentle moisturizer, wait a minute, apply your retinol treatment, then wait another minute before applying another thin layer of moisturizer.
What’s the point you may ask? Well, adding a thin barrier of moisture underneath your retinol gives your skin an extra layer of hydration which creates a buffer against the strength of the retinol. Think a reduction In redness, peeling, flaking and dryness.
Rule #5: Don’t Be A Retinol Mixologist
Did we mention that retinol is a powerful beast? We did, right? Then know that it should never be applied alongside other potent actives like glycolic acid or benzoyl peroxide. Retinol plays well with calming and moisturizing ingredients like vitamin E and aloe vera, for sure, but if you start applying it after strong, exfoliating lotions or acne busting serums, you could be heading for a whole lot of trouble.
The secret is to alternate your actives. Try a vitamin C serum in the morning, for example, and retinol at night. Or go for retinol one day, niacinamide the next. Just keep them separate. Honestly, your skin will thank you for it.
Rule #6: Sure, You CAN Apply Retinol In The Morning, But It’s Best At Night
Contrary to things you may have read in the past, retinol does not cause sun damage. So this means that yes, you can theoretically use it in the mornings.
However, retinol is a very unstable ingredient and it quickly becomes deactivated by sunlight. That’s why it’s usually recommended for use at night time – so it can work its magic without the pesky sun getting in its way.
Rule #7: Always Apply Sunscreen Every Morning (No Arguments)
No matter how often or when you apply your retinol treatment, sunscreen is an absolute must. Retinol increases cell turnover which reduces dead skin cells at the surface and brings new, delicate layers to the top. So, don’t let UV radiation damage all that fresh skin before it’s had a chance to shine, OK?
In fact, don't let UV radiation damage it at all. Generously apply a high factor (SPF 30), broad spectrum sunscreen that contains FDA-approved sun protective ingredients like zinc oxide or titanium dioxide every morning. It’s just common sense.
And, btw, our SPF 30 Mineral Sunscreen is literally ‘the one.’
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![What Happens To Your Pores As You Age?]()
Do you feel like your already-supersized-pores are growing by the minute? They're not. But it might feel like they are...
Pores are the foundation of healthy skin. Of course, collagen makes your skin strong, supple and plump. And yes, elastin gives it that all-important bouncebackability. But without pores, your skin would be a dry, shrivelled up shadow of its former self. Not to mention the fact that your entire body would lose its ability to regulate its own body temperature.
As a quick reminder, pores are tiny, microscopic openings found at the surface of your skin right at the top of your hair follicles and sweat glands. They exist to allow important liquids (as well as other particles and gases) to pass through the surface of your skin. The human body has two types of pores: sweat pores which help regulate body temperature; and oil-producing pores that are found at the top of your hair follicles where they release sebum to moisturize and lubricate the surface of the skin. The good thing about sweat pores is that they’re so small you can’t see them making them of very little concern in the grand scheme of things.
Oil-producing pores, on the other hand, are just so annoyingly visible. So why?
What Determines The Size Of Your Pores?
Like your height, skin tone and color of your hair, the size of your pores is largely shaped by genetics. This means that yes, you can blame your parents, and yes, the size of your pores is pretty much fixed.
Of course, this is great news if you have almost invisible pores. Not so much if yours feel like they take over your entire face. But let’s get one thing straight: no matter how enlarged you believe your pores are when you study them in the mirror, they’re rarely as bad as you think. Because the truth is, nobody else scrutinizes your skin on the same level as do you.
Do Pores Get Bigger Over Time?
Yes and no. The size of your pores never really changes on a physiological level. So yes, all those half-truths about being able to ‘shrink’ your pores with alcohol-heavy toners or freezing cold water is a bit of a con. But there’s a little bit of truth in there because while the actual size of your pores doesn’t alter, their walls can stretch and expand, making them appear more pronounced.
Penny drops.
What Causes Pores To Stretch With Age?
Many things happen to your skin throughout your life that can cause the walls of your pores to become damaged and loose. Of course, regular aging plays the most obvious role as your collagen levels naturally decrease over time. Sadly, there’s not a huge amount you can do about your biological clock (there’s those genes doing their worst again!) but there are many other factors of which you can control that contribute to the rate at which your pores become slack.
Sun Damage
Gosh, the sun gets blamed for a lot of skin issues. But we don’t apologize for that because it really is one of the worst things for the condition of your skin. UV radiation breaks down important proteins like collagen and elastin thanks to a build-up of free radicals. This weakens the collagen fibers that give your skin its structure, thus allowing the walls of your pores to become slack, weak and kind of baggy-looking. AKA more visible!
Picking Your Skin
If you have a tendency to pick or squeeze your skin, this not only irritates your skin as a whole, but it can seriously mess with the collagen and elastin fibers that keep your skin firm and supple. Scarring is the most obvious possibility from picking your skin, but you pores will also suffer as a consequence.
Excess Sebum
After puberty sebum production usually levels out to a somewhat more ‘normal’ rate. However, things can get messy again during significant hormonal changes in your life. Menstruation, pregnancy, the menopause, all of these periods in your life cause your hormones to become unbalanced and your sebum levels to fluctuate. And when sebum production increases it fills up your pores causing them to expand, stretch and appear bigger.
Slow Cell Turnover
When you’re in your 20s each skin cell has a life cycle of around 28 days in which time it is formed at the lower levels, moves up to the surface and then sheds. As with most biological functions, however, cell turnover slows down as you mature, causing dead cells to hang around longer than necessary at the surface of your skin. Like excess sebum, these dead cells have nowhere else to go but to clog up your pores. And clogged pores = saggy, enlarged-looking pores.
Bad Makeup Choices
Certain foundations and face cosmetics that contain heavy oils and thick butters can also block your pores, causing them to expand and become more noticeable. Make sure you scan the labels of your favorite makeup formulations to ensure they’re non-comedogenic. Non-comedogenic means they’re way less likely to block your pores (comedone is the fancy term for pore, if you didn’t know).
The Best Ways To Keep Your Pores Tight
After reading the above you can probably guess what you need to do to avoid your pores becoming damaged and saggy. But we’ll lay it out for you anyway, just to drive the point home!
1. First up, wear sunscreen. This is the best thing you can do to conserve the collagen you’ve already got while ensuring you’re still making quality fresh stuff. Apply SPF 30 Mineral Sunscreen with Vitamin C every morning as par for the course, and do your skin even more of a solid by doubling up your protection with an antioxidant serum underneath sunscreen. Niacinamide is a very good ingredient for smoother, more resilient skin so try our Niacinamide (B3) Facial Serum.
2. Don’t pick your skin. Pimples or no pimples. Nothing good can come of this.
3. Balance sebum by gently cleansing and lightly moisturizing your skin come what may. It’s super important to keep your skin clean morning and night so that oils don’t build up at the surface. We love Tea Tree Super Cleanser+ which harnesses the power of tea tree oil to clarify the skin without leaving it feeling parched. Just remember, it’s equally as vital to follow with moisturizer so your skin doesn’t think it’s dry and overcompensate with more oil than you started with!
4. Exfoliate to boost cellular turnover. But don’t overdo it. Listen to your skin and exfoliate just once or twice a week if that’s all it needs. Our Vitamin C Gentle Face Scrub (which just won an industry award may we add!) is a fantastic way to keep your skin bright, clean and dead skin cell-free. Plus, it’s kind to your skin. Which is super important, at any age.
5. Finally, don't underestimate the powers of retinol. Retinol is an incredible way to boost collagen AND encourage healthy cellular turnover. That's great news for your pores. And for controlling acne. And for reducing the appearance of wrinkles. And... well, you get the picture. Try our classic Retinol Facial Serum once or twice a week to begin with, building up to nightly as your skin acclimates.
What Happens To Your Pores As You Age?
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