Yes, You Should Try Retinol… But There Are Rules
It’s official, retinol is the business for upgrading the tone, texture and general gorgeousness of your skin. But it’s a powerful force so it requires respect.
Retinol. Boy is it good. So good that it almost certainly deserves a spot in your skincare routine. Do you have fine lines and wrinkles you’d like to soften the look of? Retinol’s your guy. Do you have dark spots you’d love to brighten? Again, retinol can help take care of those. And what about acne breakouts? Are they more frequent than you’d like? Hello retinol.
No matter your skin goals, retinol usually has your back. And even if you have sensitive skin, there are ways of seamlessly working it into your routine without too many repercussions. You simply have to know (and follow) a few important rules.
Rule #1: If It’s New, Patch Test It First
We get it, patch testing your skincare is yawnsome. But when it comes to active ingredients like retinol, it’s crucial. Because of all the over-the-counter ingredients you apply to your skin retinol is one of the most potent so, although unlikely, it could easily cause irritation, itching, stinging or burning.
Anyway, in the grand scheme of things, patch testing isn’t really that bad. You just need to employ a little bit of a patience. And we know you’ve got that in you. C’mon, it’s only 48 hours.
To patch test, apply a small amount of retinol to a discreet area of your skin like behind your ears, then monitor it for a couple of days. Chances are you’ll be fine and you can start to incorporate it into your routine. However, any uncomfortable reactions that feel worse than a bit of mild redness or tingling means the two of you are not a good match and you should not be using it. Sorry about that.
Rule #2: Apply It To Clean, Dry Skin
Some ingredients play really well with damp skin (hyaluronic acid and glycerin to name just two), but retinol is too powerful for that so we always advise you to apply it to clean, dry skin. Better yet, wait a few minutes after cleansing and toning and then apply it. This further cuts down your risks of irritation.
Rule #3: Remember, Slow & Steady Wins The Race
If your skin is not used to retinol, you simply have to start slowly so it gets used to the great powers that it contains. One of the biggest mistakes people make when using a retinol serum or moisturizer for the first time is to apply it every day. And that’s asking for trouble. You know that potential irritation we’ve been harping on about? Yeah that.
The rule is this: start slowly, employing the 1-2-3 step retinol rule. Step 1. Apply your product once a week for a week. Step 2. Apply it twice a week for two weeks. And step 3. Apply it three times a week for three weeks, spacing out your applications as equally as possible. If, at any time during these six weeks your skin feels irritated (yes, that word again!), return to the previous step until your skin acclimates. Then continue as you were. This whole process may take you up to three months but that’s OK, going slow will totally be worth it in the long run.
Rule #4: Try Sandwiching Retinol With Moisturizer
If you have dry, dehydrated or sensitive skin, a retinol sandwich might be right up your alley. And this technique is super simple. You just layer your retinol between two layers of kind-to-skin moisturizer. So after cleansing and toning, you apply a gentle moisturizer, wait a minute, apply your retinol treatment, then wait another minute before applying another thin layer of moisturizer.
What’s the point you may ask? Well, adding a thin barrier of moisture underneath your retinol gives your skin an extra layer of hydration which creates a buffer against the strength of the retinol. Think a reduction In redness, peeling, flaking and dryness.
Rule #5: Don’t Be A Retinol Mixologist
Did we mention that retinol is a powerful beast? We did, right? Then know that it should never be applied alongside other potent actives like glycolic acid or benzoyl peroxide. Retinol plays well with calming and moisturizing ingredients like vitamin E and aloe vera, for sure, but if you start applying it after strong, exfoliating lotions or acne busting serums, you could be heading for a whole lot of trouble.
The secret is to alternate your actives. Try a vitamin C serum in the morning, for example, and retinol at night. Or go for retinol one day, niacinamide the next. Just keep them separate. Honestly, your skin will thank you for it.
Rule #6: Sure, You CAN Apply Retinol In The Morning, But It’s Best At Night
Contrary to things you may have read in the past, retinol does not cause sun damage. So this means that yes, you can theoretically use it in the mornings.
However, retinol is a very unstable ingredient and it quickly becomes deactivated by sunlight. That’s why it’s usually recommended for use at night time – so it can work its magic without the pesky sun getting in its way.
Rule #7: Always Apply Sunscreen Every Morning (No Arguments)
No matter how often or when you apply your retinol treatment, sunscreen is an absolute must. Retinol increases cell turnover which reduces dead skin cells at the surface and brings new, delicate layers to the top. So, don’t let UV radiation damage all that fresh skin before it’s had a chance to shine, OK?
In fact, don't let UV radiation damage it at all. Generously apply a high factor (SPF 30), broad spectrum sunscreen that contains FDA-approved sun protective ingredients like zinc oxide or titanium dioxide every morning. It’s just common sense.
And, btw, our SPF 30 Mineral Sunscreen is literally ‘the one.’
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![The Pros & Cons Of Retinol Sandwiching]()
Heard about retinol sandwiching but clueless about what it is or whether you should be getting on that train immediately? Here’s what we know…
Retinol offers an incredible solution to many skin woes. Hate your monthly breakouts? Try retinol. Worried about wrinkles catching up on you way too quickly? Retinol’s your guy. It’s true, retinol is the gold standard in skincare ingredients – just ask your dermatologist; we’d put a lot of money on them being in complete agreement.
But retinol isn’t all moonlight and roses. In fact, many people find that it’s pretty devilish on their skin, causing all sorts of irritating side effects that, frankly, make it not worth the hassle. You know the score, think redness, itching, flaky skin and extreme dryness.
This is why you’ll see countless blog posts and viral videos about how best to make retinol work for your skin type without causing all the bad stuff. Spoiler alert: if you choose the right formulation and apply it slowly and carefully, most skin types can totally appreciate the benefits retinol has to offer.
Reckon you’ve tried all the tricks but still can’t get on with retinol on a regular basis? Then you have options. The first is to try bakuchiol which is a natural and far gentler alternative to retinol. We’re huge advocates of this just-as-awesome ingredient as it works in a similar way to retinol, encouraging cell turnover and accelerating collagen production. In fact, we love it so much that we based an entire collection of healthy aging formulations around it. Check out the range here.
The other options is to try retinol sandwiching, a ‘trend’ that #BeautyTok is all over, but one which, in fact, has been around for many years…
What Is Retinol Sandwiching?
Retinol usually comes in the form of a serum which is applied to cleansed skin before moisturizer. Retinol sandwiching, however, switches things up. Don’t worry though, it’s nothing too tricky but is a very easy technique. You simply apply moisturizer before your retinol serum, then another layer afterwards, creating the proverbial sandwich effect with the retinol being your filling and moisturizer the bread.
Why Is Retinol Sandwiching A Thing?
As skincare ingredients go, retinol is arguably the best but, as we previously mentioned, its benefits are often outnumbered by its downsides – especially if you have particularly sensitive skin. Of course, introducing it slowly into your skincare routine is a great way to reduce the risks of unwanted side effects because this allows your skin to acclimate to such a potent powerhouse.
And there are many other ways to help you reduce irritation. One of which is the retinol sandwich.
Not to be taken literally (please don’t smother retinol serum over your favorite sourdough – like, ever), retinol sandwiching is particularly good for dry skin but can be a useful tool for reducing all kinds of irritation and sensitivities.
Why is the retinol sandwich so good for the skin? Well, it creates a kind of buffering effect, adding a layer of product between your skin and the retinol which helps to slow down its absorption and reduce its potency. Not to mention the added moisturization as an extra bonus. All this means that you’ll likely be able to use your retinol serum more frequently.
Does Sandwiching Make Retinol Less Effective?
Yes. Most moisturizers contain oils and water which kind of ‘dilute’ the retinol, making it weaker and less effective. But if you’re choosing to make yourself a retinol sandwich, you’re probably doing so because you have sensitive skin and want to reduce the irritation it may potentially cause. So making it weaker is kind of the point, right?
Is Retinol Sandwiching Right For Your Skin Type?
Honestly? That’s a question only you can answer. The truth is, if you use it wisely, most retinol formulas can be successfully built into your skincare routine without the sandwich method. That being said, nobody knows your skin better than you, so if you feel it may help you to enjoy the benefits of retinol, there’s no harm in trying.
All we can say is that if you want to give it a go, make sure to choose the right moisturizer for the job. Here’s a quick checklist for you.
✅ Go for a lightweight lotion. This will be better than a rich, heavy cream because it will at least allow a little of the retinol to get through to the surface of your skin.
❎ Avoid moisturizer that contains potent, active ingredients. Certain ingredients may react with the retinol and actually increase your chances of redness and irritation.
✅ Look out for gentle hydrating ingredients. Things like hyaluronic acid, glycerin and aloe vera are your friends here.
Other Tips For Making Retinol Work For You
1. Always Patch Test Retinol First
Yes, patch testing is boring and certainly not for the impatient, but it’s important and a great way to know whether a certain ingredient is going to be the right match for your skin. Patch test any new retinol product on a discreet area of your skin first. Then leave it for 48 hours to check for adverse reactions before using it as recommended.
2. Use It On Dry Skin
Many ingredients play well on damp skin but moisture can increase the absorption of retinol, simultaneously increasing the chances of irritation. Better to be safe by applying it to skin that's dry.
3. Go Slow And Go Steady
We’re all about the 1-2-3 retinol rule. When starting out, apply your product once a week only, for one week. Then apply it twice a week for two weeks and finally, go for three times a week for three weeks. This helps your skin build tolerance and allows you to eventually be able to apply it every night.
4. Apply Sunscreen Every Morning
Don’t let damaging UV radiation screw up all that fresh new skin retinol is helping to bring to the surface. Generously apply SPF 30 Mineral Sunscreen every morning as the final step in your routine.
But you knew that. Didn't you? DIDN'T YOU?
The Pros & Cons Of Retinol Sandwiching
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