True Radical Honesty From Our Community

Just like dry skin, oily skin comes with its problems. So, if a shiny t-zone, clogged pores and monthly breakouts are all too familiar bugbears, it’s time to take control.

If you’ve had oily skin for as long as you can remember you’ll understand the grievances of a greasy forehead, equally as slick bangs and makeup that just won’t stay put. And while having thicker, more resilient skin and fewer wrinkles (two of the plus sides of an oily complexion) might make you feel better for all of ten seconds, oily skin can seem like more of a curse than a blessing.

So, what causes oily skin and why might your skin be way slicker than your BFFs? Let’s investigate.

Important Fact: Your Skin Needs Oil

Your skin is your body’s largest organ and plays a very important role in regulating body temperature and protecting you from heat, light, injuries and infection. There are many factors that must come together for your skin to function properly, not least of which is its ability to produce a certain oil called sebum.

Sebum is a slightly sticky, oily substance that’s produced by sebaceous glands which are found in varying numbers all over your body – except on the palms of your hands and tops and soles of your feet. You know that infamous t-zone? Well, your forehead, nose, cheeks and chin have way more sebaceous glands than the rest of your face which is why it's notoriously shiny.

Sebum contains several types of complex oils and lipids such as triglycerides, fatty acids, wax ester, cholesterol and squalene which work together to lubricate and support the health of your skin. In fact, sebum is vital for sealing in moisture, creating a barrier from environmental stressors, helping your skin heal and transporting antioxidants to the skin’s surface. It also plays an important role in helping your skin maintain a slightly acidic pH level to prevent bacteria and viruses from penetrating the top layers.

Why Is Some Skin Oiler Than Others?

How much sebum your skin produces depends on many factors but it’s largely genetic. Does one or both of your parents have oily skin? Then chances are this is why your sebaceous glands are also larger and more active than you might like.

As you age, hormonal changes, medication and lifestyle factors such as stress, your diet and your skincare choices can also play a major role in your rate of sebum production (as does hot or humid weather), but for the most part you can definitely blame your parents if that makes you feel better.

The Downsides Of Oily Skin

As if the immediate annoyance of slick skin that requires a packet of daily blotting papers to control shine wasn’t enough to contend with, excess sebum can also create longer-term concerns. Namely, acne vulgaris – the medical term for common acne.

Oily skin and acne often go hand in hand because excess sebum prevents your dead skin cells from shedding from the surface of the skin, trapping bacteria and irritants with them. Your hair follicles then become blocked with this cocktail of sebum, dead skin cells and other nasties, which is when problems start to rear their ugly heads. If this plugged follicle remains closed, it will create a whitehead, whereas if it opens up at the surface of your skin it will become oxygenated, darken and turn into the dreaded blackhead. And if inflammation follows? Then we’re talking papules, pustules, nodules or cysts – known to most of you as zits.

How To Control Oily Skin – The Do’s & Don’ts

When it comes to sebum, the key is balance. This means that over-stimulating your skin with insane amounts of chemicals in your skincare or being a little too enthusiastic with your exfoliation routine is totally off the menu. Gentle skincare is the future.

Here’s a checklist of the most important do’s and don’ts for you to remember…

1. DO Resist The Urge To Over-Cleanse

We’ve said it before and we’ll say it again (sorry, not sorry), cleansing your skin like your life depended on it is seriously bad news. This is true whether your skin is dry, combination, normal or oily, but it’s especially important for oily skin types. How so? Because skin that’s ‘squeaky clean’ is skin that’s had all of its natural sebum stripped away. This may sound like the best news ever, but sebum is important for your skin’s health, so if you take it away with chemical-laced cleansers and/or harsh exfoliation your skin will produce even more sebum to compensate. The result? Skin that’s just as oily as it was before you cleansed. Maybe even more so.

By all means cleanse your skin morning, night and after exercising, but stick with gentle formulations like our Vitamin C Daily Facial Cleanser. You could also try Skin Clearing Charcoal Face Wash which contains activated charcoal to help draw out oils, dirt and bacteria – all without drying out your skin.

2. DO Perfect Your Moisturizing Game

First things first, don’t think you can get away with not moisturizing because the same rules apply here as they do with over-cleansing: no moisture = more sebum.

When it comes to choosing a great moisturizer for oily skin, stick with gels, serums and light lotions above balms, creams and ointments. Also, keep away from heavy, occlusive ingredients like cocoa butter, beeswax and petrolatum as these create a barrier on your skin which you, of all people, should avoid.

If you suffer with clogged pores and/or acne, look for the terms non-comedogenic or non-acnegenic on your skincare labels. These mean that a product has been specifically formulated not to clog pores or cause acne respectively. It doesn’t mean they absolutely, 100 percent won’t, but they’re much less likely to. And that’s good enough for us.

3. DON’T Touch Your Face

You might think your hands are as clean as they’ve ever been, but they’ll still harbor dirt, oil and bacteria, no matter how often you wash and sanitize them. It’s just life. So, although it’s tempting, stop touching your face throughout the day as this will transfer all that extra oil and debris straight from your hands to your face. And if you’re guilty of wiping excess sebum off your cheeks and forehead with your fingers? Don’t do that. Invest in some blotting papers instead.

4. DO Apply A Retinol Treatment

We’re big fans of retinol as an anti-aging ingredient, but did you know retinol is also the nuts for tightening pores and balancing sebum? Regular use of a retinol treatment stimulates cell turnover, shrinks sebaceous glands and draws dead skin cells out of your pores, making them appear visibly smaller. Just remember to introduce retinol into your routine slowly and carefully to enable your skin to adjust without freaking out.

5. DON’T Overload Your Skin With Pore-Clogging Makeup

Heavy makeup might be tempting if you have blemishes you want to hide, but caking your skin in heavy, oil-based foundation will further clog pores and exacerbate flare-ups. And that’s a big nope from us.

If you can, leave your skin clean, bare and moisturized (at least on those days when you’re not leaving the house) or wear an oil-free tinted moisturizer with broad-spectrum sunscreen as a lighter alternative to full-on foundation. Mineral powder foundations are also a great shout for oily skin as they’re non-comedogenic and help mattify your skin without looking like you’ve tipped a vat of oil-controlling powder all over your face.

6. DO Get Some Salicylic Acid In Your Skincare Routine

Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) and quite possibly one of the most effective ingredients for treating oily and acne-prone skin. Like glycolic and lactic acids, salicylic acid exfoliates the skin. But unlike the others it’s lipophilic which means it penetrates oil to target blockages and thin sebum, allowing sebum to flow more freely to the skin’s surface. This helps deeply cleanse, balance and reduce inflammation while minimizing enlarged pores as part of the bargain.

As with retinol, salicylic acid can pack a potent punch, so always perform a patch test first, then go slowly when using it for the first time. Start applying it just once or twice a week, then as you continue to use it you can up the ante as your skin acclimates.

One of our top picks for oily skin is our Tea Tree Clear Skin Super Serum which combines the powers of salicylic acid with tea tree oil and retinol. And if that sounds like skin irritation just waiting to happen, fear not. It also contains calming niacinamide and hydrating hyaluronic acid. So... winner.

What you put on your skin is only the half of it. Turns out, the way in which you apply your skincare products is just as important.

Finding your skincare products’ sweet spots can be a real art form. Does slathering your face in oceans of moisturizer somehow make it more effective? Or is less always more? Then you have your application technique to think about. Should you be ‘pressing’ serum into your skin or massaging it in with your fingers?

Yeah, yeah, we know that's a lot to think about. But you've got this. Because, while for some people it’s a miracle they even remember to take their makeup off before bed, we know you’re way more skincare savvy than that. After all, you wouldn’t be here if you weren’t.

So, just how much of your products should you be applying? And is there a right and a wrong way to apply them? Here’s what we know about five of the most important steps in your skincare routine…

How To: Cleanse

This first step in your skincare routine is the best time to massage your skin to help boost circulation and ensure a thorough cleanse. Do this using the pads of your fingers – but remember, keep long nails well away from your delicate complexion to avoid scratching and damaging your skin.

Wash your hands first, then wet your skin with lukewarm (never hot) water. Squeeze cleanser into the palm of your hand, then apply it all over your face and neck before working it in with your fingers. Press your fingers along the brow area and up your forehead a few times, then work from the center of your nose and out along your cheeks towards the hairline, rubbing the cleanser into your skin in large circles. Do this a few times, then continue with the same motion over your chin and jawline. To finish, smooth your fingertips up your neck, then rinse thoroughly and pat dry.

How Much Cleanser Should You Use? A dime-sized amount should be plenty to effectively cleanse both your face and neck.

How To: Apply Serum

Serums are undoubtedly our favorite players in the skincare world because they pack a real punch and, is it just us or do they not feel really amazing to apply? Like they instantly work on contact or some such skincare wizardry?...

Serums require a delicate touch so, whereas cleansing is the time for working out your skin using light massage, this step is the complete opposite. Apply a little serum onto the base of your thumb (as below) or the palm of one hand, then work it between your fingertips and use the pads of your fingers to pat it evenly over your face. By all means, smooth it gently all over your face and neck for an even coverage but then leave it alone, allowing the serum to absorb into your skin without too much rubbing or massaging.

How Much Serum Should You Use? Serums are pumped with potent, active ingredients so less is definitely more. Go for a pea-sized amount (unless instructed otherwise) to create a thin, even layer over your skin.

How To: Apply Eye Cream

The skin around your eyes is thinner, drier and way more fragile than the rest of your face so, again, being heavy handed with your eye cream is a major no-no. Instead, pump a little onto the tip of one of your ring fingers, then press both your ring fingers gently together to distribute it evenly between them. Next, dab the cream around your eyes, working in gentle tapping motions to evenly apply the product around your orbital bone. Using your ring fingers rather than your forefingers helps you maintain a delicate touch and reduces any risk of dragging your skin.

How Much Eye Cream Should You Use? Overloading the skin around your eyes can cause problems like puffiness, so stick with a pea-sized amount, shared between both eyes.

How To: Moisturize

Once any serums, treatments and eye creams have settled, it’s time to moisturize. The best way to apply moisturizer is by applying light pressure to massage it all over your face and neck. Work a little between the palms of your hands and fingers, then put your hands in a prayer position and place them over your nose before smoothing your hands out and up towards your hairline. Repeat this a few times to ensure an even layer, then do the same over your forehead and finally your chin and jawline. 

How Much Moisturizer Should You Use? Stick with a quarter-sized amount of moisturizer for your whole face – whatever your skin type. If your skin is super dry and you feel like this isn’t enough, chances are you don't need more product, you simply need a different formulation. Time to switch up your moisturizer, people.

How To: Apply Facial Sunscreen

Apply your sunscreen exactly as you would your moisturizer – easy. Just make sure it’s the final step in your morning skincare routine.

How Much Sunscreen Should You Use? This is where you can afford to be more generous because you want nothing less than an even layer of sun protection all over your face. Similar to your moisturizer, a quarter-sized amount should be sufficient, but if you’re planning to be outside all day, make sure you apply a little more than that.

One Last Tip Before We Go. If you’ve been a bit handsy and poured out way too much serum or moisturizer, don't be tempted to slap it all on your face and hope for the best. Instead, smooth it over your neck and décolletage or even over the tops of your hands. Sharing the skincare love is way better than overloading your face.

According to research, fall is Americans’ favorite time of year, so with the season of falling leaves and crisp temperatures about to officially hit the nation on September 22, we figured it was time you started to rethink your skincare regime. 

Let’s not get ahead of ourselves though, people. Winter may be coming, but there’s no need to break out the thermals or slather your skin in cold cream quite yet. Instead, use this time to repair any summertime damage you may have unwittingly encountered from that dastardly you-know-what, while preparing your skin for the dry season with antioxidants and hydration.

Here’s how.

Up Your Moisture Game

Studies carried out by Pinterest in 2019 showed that ‘skin care routine’, ‘beauty routine’ and ‘morning routine’ were up there with the most popular search terms in August and September, so it seems we’re not the only ones thinking about what a new season means for the skin.

We love this kind of news, so exactly what should you be doing to maintain a healthy, glowing complexion from now until winter? First up, let’s think about how to switch up your moisturizer. Fall weather is cooler, windier and less humid than the summer months, which also creates the need to crank up the heating. All this makes for a super-dry environment that skin hates. If you’re an eczema sufferer (and studies by the National Eczema Association show that just over 10 percent of you are), then you’ll know just how exacerbating dry conditions can be for your skin.

A simple way to help reduce dehydration is to invest in a humidifier – especially for your bedroom. It’s also the perfect time to switch up your moisturizer. You know that super-lightweight, gel-based moisturizer you’ve been in love with for the past few months? Unless your skin is naturally oily, it probably won’t cut it for the next six months. Instead, look out for slightly richer formulations (but leave the heavy hitters until winter) that contain clinically-proven hydrating ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, jojoba oil, shea butter and ceramides. You could also try a nightly, nutrient-rich face oil for an extra boost of nourishment.

(PS: Don’t forget to moisturize your body daily as it's not just your facial skin that becomes drier and itchier come fall.)

Don’t Dismiss Your Sunscreen

Sunscreen is the single most important anti-aging step of any skincare plan. And it’s a year-round commitment, not just for summer. Yes, you’re less likely to burn in the fall and winter months as UVB radiation becomes less intense (thanks, clouds). But what about that pesky UVA radiation? This is the stuff that penetrates your skin on a deeper level and is responsible for the visible signs of aging such as fine lines, wrinkles and dark spots. Well, UVA is still very much present. And remains so all year long. It can even penetrate through glass to really hit you when you’re least expecting it.

This is why a broad-spectrum sunscreen (broad-spectrum means it protects from both UVA and UVB) is not to be filed away in the trash as soon as the sun disappears from view. For perfect fall protection, a mineral-based powder or foundation with an SPF of around 30 is often enough. Apply it over your favorite moisturizer and you'll be winning at life.

Treat Post-Summer Discoloration

Fall is the perfect time to do some serious repair work on sun-damaged skin. For the past few months it’s been subject to super-strong UV radiation, and no matter how strict your SPF routine is, sometimes there’s just no getting away from that big ball of fire in the sky.

A great way to deal with post-summer discoloration is to invest in a chemical peel that literally peels off the top layer of dead skin cells. This may sound gross, but trust us, it’s totally worth looking like something from a horror movie for a few days for the fresh, radiant skin a peel offers. Try The Perfect Derma Peel or ask your skincare expert about Skin Medica’s range of professional peels.

At home, cut back on your exfoliating routine (once a week should be enough as skin becomes drier) and instead, try some brightening tricks to help bring clarity back to your complexion. As you may have noticed by now, vitamin C is one ingredient that gives us all the feels. Trusted by those-in-the-know for centuries, vitamin C is major antioxidant player. It's also an effective brightening agent that literally kicks dark spots into touch by inhibiting melanin production. Try adding our much-loved Vitamin C Serum into your fall morning routine and you won’t be disappointed with the results.

Invest In Some Key Antioxidant Serums

While we’re on the subject, if you’re not already hooked on antioxidants, now’s the perfect time to get on that. Introducing one (or more) antioxidants to your fall skincare routine is an awesome way to renew your skin and repair damage from exposure to the sun. How so? Because antioxidants have the power to counteract all that destruction (think fine lines, wrinkles, dark spots, dryness, dull skin, the works) free radicals do to your skin. And one of the main causes of free radicals? UV radiation.

Invest in an antioxidant-laced serum and apply it after cleansing but before moisturizing to reboot, repair, moisturize and protect post-summer skin. We love niacinamide, vitamin E, hyaluronic acid, the aforementioned vitamin C and retinol.

While super-effective, retinol can be notoriously tricky in the summer months because it is quickly deactivated by strong sunlight, disrupts the natural protective barrier and can exacerbate redness. This is why it’s best used at nighttime and must always be followed with a broad-spectrum SPF the next day. If you want to introduce retinol to your skincare regime for the first time, however, fall is the perfect time to do it.

Assess The Skin Around Your Eyes

The delicate skin around your eyes ages much quicker than the rest of your face and is often the first area to show signs of dryness. And dryness is no friend to fine lines around your eyes. Other seasonal changes can also result in puffiness and bags under the eyes, so if you couple all this together, your eyes face a real battle as the days get colder. Honestly, nobody wants that.

To counteract this onslaught, add our Anti-Aging Eye Cream to your fall skincare arsenal which is pumped full of hyaluronic acid to hydrate, vitamins C, B5 and E to feed, repair and protect, and peptides to stimulate collagen production for healthier, more youthful-looking skin.

Just remember, whenever you add new skincare products to your regime, avoid overloading your skin with too many products at once as this can cause irritations if you’re not careful. And we cannot stress enough how important patch testing is. Not sure how that works? We’re here to help with that.

Testing a new beauty product before applying it all over your skin or hair can seem like a real chore. But tell us this: would you ever jump straight into a hot bath without dipping your toe in the water first? No chance. So, why are you on board with patch testing hair color, but not skincare? It’s definitely time to changed that…

We recently read a sad story about a young woman who used an at-home peeling solution for the first time and ended up with terrible blisters all over her chin. She performed what she thought was an adequate test by applying a little of the formulation to her cheek for five minutes. Then, because she felt no adverse reaction, she went for it.

Big mistake. Huge. She paid the price the next day with burning skin that turned into nasty red bumps. The following day, these bumps turned into blisters. The next day they continued to worsen. And for many weeks following.

This made us think, just how important proper patch testing is. And that most consumers know little about it, let alone the reasons why they should be doing it after purchasing any new skincare product.

So, here’s everything you need to know about how and why your skin can react to certain ingredients in skincare – and what you can do to avoid it.

The Truth About What Goes In Your Skincare

When it comes to skincare ingredients, manufacturers like us are very strict about testing everything that goes into our product formulas. We are, after all, responsible for ensuring every product is safe for consumer use when used correctly and according to its directions.

However, the worrying truth is that, other than color additives, cosmetic ingredients do not have to be tested or approved by the FDA (US Food and Drug Administration) before going to market. They’re regulated, yes, and there’s plenty of research and data online about how effective and safe most ingredients are, but the FDA has no authority over any cosmetic product you put on your face and body.

Due to the strength, power and concentration of our active, plant-based formulations, we take this very seriously and thoroughly test everything before including it in our products. But still, you can’t be sure every brand has the same high standards.

Red flag number one.

How Your Own Skin Comes Into Play

Another important thing to remember is that your skin is totally unique to you. So, while the latest influencer, glossy magazine beauty editor or Love Island star might get all the feels from a much-hyped skincare product, who’s to say that your skin will behave in the exact same way?

Similarly, you may think your skin is as strong as steel and can take anything you throw at it: retinol, vitamin C, glycolic acid, the works. Well, this might be true, but whether you have sensitive skin or not, there’s always the possibility of reacting to a certain active ingredient in skincare. And here’s the kicker. People can develop allergies at any time in their lives, so even if you’ve used an ingredient before, it may still cause your skin to flare-up at a later date.

Red flag number two.

So, What Can You Do To Prevent Skin Irritation?

First up it’s vital, we repeat vital to only ever buy products from brands you trust. Once you’ve got this in your head, you can then think in more detail about what your put on your face.

One of the biggest mistakes you could make is to overload your skin with countless products containing strong actives. Word of warning: unless these actives have been carefully combined into one treatment by a reputable manufacturer, or you’ve been prescribed a curated regimen by a board-certified skin expert, this is a bad idea. Instead, introduce active ingredients one at a time, giving yourself a few weeks to acclimate before starting another. You could also try an antioxidant such as vitamin E in the morning, then an AHA or retinol treatment at night to get the benefits of both while keeping them separate and reducing your chances of irritation.

Another trick is to check the labels before you buy a new product and try to avoid some of the most common irritants in skincare such as parabens, formaldehyde and sulfates.

The best way to avoid unwanted flare-ups, however, is to carry out a patch test first.

How To Perform A Patch Test At Home

Patch tests are a piece of cake. All you need to do is apply a small dot of your new product to a discreet patch of clean skin such as behind your ears, inside your elbow, on the side of your neck or on your wrist. 

Skin can take up to 48 hours to react to a product or ingredient it doesn’t like, so you should ideally leave the product for at least 24 hours (preferably 48) before checking for a negative reaction. If you see or feel anything that doesn’t look right after this time such as redness, burning, swelling or itching, discontinue use and return it because something’s not right. And should symptoms continue or worsen, seek advice from a board-certified skincare expert. 

Any mild reaction such as slight redness or tingling that occurs within the first hour of applying your product is fine – it’s the intention of most active ingredients, especially AHAs and BHAs, to work out the skin. This should settle down within 30-60 minutes, but if it continues or gets worse, rinse your skin immediately.

If you experience no adverse reactions over the 24-48 hour time period, you should be good to apply the product to your skin as instructed. But remember, those directions are there for a reason, so stick with them. To the letter. 

What To Do If You Discover A Skin Allergy

If you’re concerned about a serious reaction and think you might have some kind of allergy such as contact dermatitis, make sure to book an appointment with a board-certified dermatologist or allergist. Chances are, you’re allergic to a certain ingredient which can be diagnosed through a more detailed type of patch testing.

Patch testing at the doctor’s office is a whole different ball game and involves having a number of small patches of allergens applied to the skin and observed for adverse reactions. During this test, your skin may be exposed to up to 30 different substances at once, so it’s a great way to eliminate certain chemicals and ingredients from both your skincare and household products.

Remember, knowledge is a powerful thing and can be a lifesaver for your skin.