True Radical Honesty From Our Community

What you put on your skin is only the half of it. Turns out, the way in which you apply your skincare products is just as important.

Finding your skincare products’ sweet spots can be a real art form. Does slathering your face in oceans of moisturizer somehow make it more effective? Or is less always more? Then you have your application technique to think about. Should you be ‘pressing’ serum into your skin or massaging it in with your fingers?

Yeah, yeah, we know that's a lot to think about. But you've got this. Because, while for some people it’s a miracle they even remember to take their makeup off before bed, we know you’re way more skincare savvy than that. After all, you wouldn’t be here if you weren’t.

So, just how much of your products should you be applying? And is there a right and a wrong way to apply them? Here’s what we know about five of the most important steps in your skincare routine…

How To: Cleanse

This first step in your skincare routine is the best time to massage your skin to help boost circulation and ensure a thorough cleanse. Do this using the pads of your fingers – but remember, keep long nails well away from your delicate complexion to avoid scratching and damaging your skin.

Wash your hands first, then wet your skin with lukewarm (never hot) water. Squeeze cleanser into the palm of your hand, then apply it all over your face and neck before working it in with your fingers. Press your fingers along the brow area and up your forehead a few times, then work from the center of your nose and out along your cheeks towards the hairline, rubbing the cleanser into your skin in large circles. Do this a few times, then continue with the same motion over your chin and jawline. To finish, smooth your fingertips up your neck, then rinse thoroughly and pat dry.

How Much Cleanser Should You Use? A dime-sized amount should be plenty to effectively cleanse both your face and neck.

How To: Apply Serum

Serums are undoubtedly our favorite players in the skincare world because they pack a real punch and, is it just us or do they not feel really amazing to apply? Like they instantly work on contact or some such skincare wizardry?...

Serums require a delicate touch so, whereas cleansing is the time for working out your skin using light massage, this step is the complete opposite. Apply a little serum onto the base of your thumb (as below) or the palm of one hand, then work it between your fingertips and use the pads of your fingers to pat it evenly over your face. By all means, smooth it gently all over your face and neck for an even coverage but then leave it alone, allowing the serum to absorb into your skin without too much rubbing or massaging.

How Much Serum Should You Use? Serums are pumped with potent, active ingredients so less is definitely more. Go for a pea-sized amount (unless instructed otherwise) to create a thin, even layer over your skin.

How To: Apply Eye Cream

The skin around your eyes is thinner, drier and way more fragile than the rest of your face so, again, being heavy handed with your eye cream is a major no-no. Instead, pump a little onto the tip of one of your ring fingers, then press both your ring fingers gently together to distribute it evenly between them. Next, dab the cream around your eyes, working in gentle tapping motions to evenly apply the product around your orbital bone. Using your ring fingers rather than your forefingers helps you maintain a delicate touch and reduces any risk of dragging your skin.

How Much Eye Cream Should You Use? Overloading the skin around your eyes can cause problems like puffiness, so stick with a pea-sized amount, shared between both eyes.

How To: Moisturize

Once any serums, treatments and eye creams have settled, it’s time to moisturize. The best way to apply moisturizer is by applying light pressure to massage it all over your face and neck. Work a little between the palms of your hands and fingers, then put your hands in a prayer position and place them over your nose before smoothing your hands out and up towards your hairline. Repeat this a few times to ensure an even layer, then do the same over your forehead and finally your chin and jawline. 

How Much Moisturizer Should You Use? Stick with a quarter-sized amount of moisturizer for your whole face – whatever your skin type. If your skin is super dry and you feel like this isn’t enough, chances are you don't need more product, you simply need a different formulation. Time to switch up your moisturizer, people.

How To: Apply Facial Sunscreen

Apply your sunscreen exactly as you would your moisturizer – easy. Just make sure it’s the final step in your morning skincare routine.

How Much Sunscreen Should You Use? This is where you can afford to be more generous because you want nothing less than an even layer of sun protection all over your face. Similar to your moisturizer, a quarter-sized amount should be sufficient, but if you’re planning to be outside all day, make sure you apply a little more than that.

One Last Tip Before We Go. If you’ve been a bit handsy and poured out way too much serum or moisturizer, don't be tempted to slap it all on your face and hope for the best. Instead, smooth it over your neck and décolletage or even over the tops of your hands. Sharing the skincare love is way better than overloading your face.

Ho ho ho! Merry Christmas and happy Holidays from Santa to one and all!

Now, you might be a bit confused to receive a letter from Santa. Usually it goes the other way around! But I really wanted to send a little note of thanks to my friends at TruSkin for giving a hand to me and my elves.

You see, I had something of a problem this year. While the elves were busy crafting presents for all the nice children - and adults, of course - around the world, I was sitting at my desk wondering what on Earth I could get for Mrs Claus.

Imagine that. Santa couldn’t come up with a present for someone!

But one day, I heard Mrs Claus tell some of the elves that the biting cold we have here at the North Pole was being especially hard on her skin this year. And that’s when it hit me! I would get a special skincare product, made especially for her.

So, I rushed to Google for the best skincare products around (that’s right, we have computers at the North Pole these days too!). That’s how I found out about TruSkin! Without delay, I sent them a letter asking for help to make the perfect present for Mrs Claus.

Wishlist for Wonderful Ingredients

I heard back from TruSkin right away. In their reply, they said they were honored that Santa himself had asked them for help, and that they would be more than happy to help make a special present for Mrs Claus.

However, to make something truly special, the good folks at TruSkin asked me to give them a hand in return. They were about to make a whole new product, just for Mrs Claus, and for that they would need help getting some ingredients.

I’m not one to turn down a wishlist, so of course I agreed! The things TruSkin was asking for weren’t something that I could find just laying around in my workshop, so it looked like Santa had to go on a little trip.

It was not quite Christmas yet, so taking off in my sleigh wouldn’t have been quite appropriate, don’t you think? That’s why I instead climbed into Santa’s very own helicopter with my trusty elf pilot!

The Perfect Serum For Mrs Claus

The first item on TruSkin’s wishlist was called niacinamide. It’s a high-performing antioxidant that reduces redness, irritation, and sun damage - among other skin issues - while also improving hydration and elasticity. In other words, it was the perfect cure for Mrs Claus’ chapped winter skin!

The second ingredient was organic aloe that helps moisturize and soothe skin that’s been dried out by North Pole’s arctic temperatures. Finally, to top it all off, TruSkin wished for some avocado oil to provide powerful hydration and combat signs of aging - not that I think Mrs Claus needs to worry about that.

It took me a bit of traveling, but a lot of people around the world were more than ready to help Santa out! Soon enough, I was on my way to TruSkin’s skincare workshop.

Their technicians got to work right away, and I must say, they’re just as hardworking as Santa’s elves. It didn’t take them long to complete Mrs Claus’ special present - the brand new TruSkin Niacinamide Serum!

Now, the elves take care of all the chemistry at my workshop, so the exact formulations of the serum went a bit over my head. But TruSkin assured me that the nutrient-dense Niacinamide Serum is gentler than other vitamin-based skin serums, which will work great with Mrs Claus’ sensitive skin.

The serum is also specifically formulated to minimize pores, which helps reduce oiliness. All in all, it will support skin elasticity and give Mrs Claus a strong, resilient skin that will resist the North Pole’s weather.

And as a cherry on top of it all, TruSkin packed the bottle in a pretty new gift bag. Now isn’t that nice!

Santa’s Favorite Skincare Products

While I was waiting for TruSkin’s folks to work their magic on Mrs Claus’ serum, I got to looking around their workshop. Flying around in my sleigh on Christmas eve does take its toll even on Santa’s face, so I asked if there was something they could recommend for me.

And of course there was! My first issue was that my sleigh is open-topped, so my face is fully exposed to all the soot and pollution up in the air, not to mention the… Well, shall call it “reindeer exhaust”.

To help clean my face after my sleigh-ride, TruSkin recommended their Charcoal Face Wash. I must admit that I was a bit skeptical at first, since I do regularly get covered in coal soot when going through chimneys.

But just one try of the face wash and I could see that TruSkin knew what they were talking about! The activated coconut charcoal - together with the organic aloe that also went into Mrs Claus’ serum - left my face clearer and cleaner than it had been in ages.

My second problem was the windburn I get on my sleigh that leaves my face dry and wrinkled. TruSkin had an answer for this too - their Hyaluronic Acid Serum.

And sure enough, this innovative formulation has made Santa’s skin hydrated and plump, and looking a good bit younger! With just a few weeks of regular use, my face no longer has the wind and sun damage that was bothering me.

I finally asked for something that would return the rosy glow to Santa’s cheeks that everybody seems to love so much. That’s when TruSkin brought me the Vitamin C Moisturizer.

I must say, I’ve been very happy with this lotion. It’s packed with plant-based nutrients that work to keep my face hydrated and fresh, and return a healthy redness to my cheeks - at least to what you can see from under my beard!

Back to the Pole

And so, with Mrs Claus’ present neatly wrapped and my own skincare products bagged, I returned back to Santa’s workshop at the North Pole. This just goes to show that when you need help with something, it’s best to turn to professionals - even if you’re Santa!

Since I got back, I’ve been looking into getting my workshop expanded with the same kind of facilities I visited at TruSkin. Mrs Claus keeps asking why I’m so interested in skincare all of a sudden, but I tell her the whole project was the elves’ idea, based on some letters they’d read with me.

I’d love to give Mrs Claus her present already, but that’d be unfair towards everyone else on my nice list. She’ll have to wait until Christmas, just like everybody, but I’m sure she’ll be more than happy with her present!

But, I think I now hear the elves calling for me, so it’s time for Santa to get back to work. 

I know you’re all on the nice list, so I will see you soon! Once again, Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to everyone!

Best regards,

Santa

Good news: at night, while you catch up on valuable zzzs, your body and skin go into overdrive to repair damage from the day. And this, dear friends is why we truly believe that sleep is one of the most important players in your skincare arsenal. 

We’ve said it before and we’ll say it again, there are very few skincare tricks as effective as a good night’s sleep. Yes, daily broad-spectrum sunscreen is imperative for warding off the signs of premature aging, and if you skip moisturizer on a regular basis, especially as you get older? Well, you can say goodbye to that baby-soft skin you took for granted in your teens and early 20s.

But when all is said and done, if you deprive yourself of quality sleep time, you might as well throw the rest of your skincare routine in the trash.

Here, we lay out the facts about beauty sleep and why you 100 percent need it – if nothing else but for the sake of your wrinkles.

1. If you’re anywhere between the ages of 18 and 64, the National Sleep Foundation recommends between seven and nine hours of sleep every night. This means if you’re up every day at 7 am to workout before work or take the dog for a walk, you need to be turning in at midnight at the very latest – but preferably by 10 pm.

Why do we need so much sleep? Because it ‘powers the mind, restores the body and fortifies virtually every system in the body,’ explain sleep experts at the foundation.

2. What does this mean specifically for your skin? Well, as your brain goes into rest mode, your skin does the exact opposite. Blood flow to the skin increases which nourishes it with valuable nutrients; cell turnover accelerates to bring fresh, healthy skin cells to the surface, and collagen production revs up big time. Collagen is a super important protein in your body that works like glue to hold everything together. When it comes to your skin, collagen is basically responsible for its structure, firmness and plumpness. In short, lots of collagen is very good. Short supplies, not so much.

Aging, a cruddy diet, too much sun and smoking are all major enemies of collagen, but sleep is its BFF. So, beauty lesson number one? More sleep = more collagen = more youthful-looking skin. 

3. Plenty of other things are also going on while you sleep, so let’s talk about hormones for a hot minute.

First up, is cortisol, or as it’s otherwise known, the stress hormone. Cortisol not only regulates your levels of stress, but also your blood pressure, immune system and metabolism. Levels of cortisol vary throughout the day, being high in the morning and gradually decreasing into the evening. When you fall asleep these levels drop dramatically, which means if you miss out on valuable sleep your body continues to produce cortisol. This puts unwanted stress on pretty much every important internal bodily function, and spells disaster for your skin as too much cortisol completely wrecks its ability to heal and regenerate. It can also cause flare-ups and exacerbate skin conditions like rosacea, eczema and psoriasis.

4. While we’re on the hormone topic, melatonin also needs a mention. Melatonin – often thought of simply as a sleep supplement you buy from your local CVS – is actually a hormone produced naturally by your body when it’s dark to help it repair itself as you sleep. It has awesome antioxidant properties, so just like vitamin C and niacinamide, helps reduce skin aging by fighting damaging free radicals that are caused by those environmental bad guys: namely UV radiation and pollution. 

Beauty lesson number two: lack of sleep = less melatonin = more skin damage.

5. The last hormone we’d like to bring to your attention is HGH, the human growth hormone. Like melatonin, this is produced naturally by your body during deep sleep to help maintain your organs and build strength in your tissues and muscles. HGH production decreases with age which is why it becomes increasingly harder to build muscle, bone density and exercise stamina as you get older. It’s also one of the reasons your skin becomes thinner over time.

Note to selves. Up your sleep levels to help your body produce as much HGH as your age will allow.

6. As we previously mentioned, sleep is vital for maintaining a balanced metabolism. Well, it also helps regulate your blood sugar levels which is super important for reducing sugar cravings.

A diet that’s high in simple carbs and refined sugars results in a process called glycation which leads to inflammation in your skin and a significant disruption to your collagen and elastin production. Glycation also produces skin damaging free radicals which drive a further nail in the coffin of your hopes for a long-lasting youthful complexion.

7. If you’ve ever woken up after a night of poor sleep (wine, what wine?) only to be faced with puffy eyes and dark circles, you’ll be more than aware of how much the skin around your eyes feels the hit of sleep deprivation. But why? Unfortunately, the exact science is a little unclear, but lack of sleep definitely makes eyes dry and irritated, so this could be one reason for the inflammation and/or swelling. It also causes the blood vessels under the thin skin around your eyes to dilate which increases blood retention and creates that infamous dark tint.

Too much cortisol may also be partly to blame for eye puffiness. High levels in your bloodstream change the salt balance in your body which makes it retain water and cause unwanted swelling.

8. The process of repair and regeneration that happens as you sleep also helps strengthen your skin’s natural, protective barrier. If your skin barrier is compromised – which may happen if you keep up a shabby sleep routine – it fails in its job to hold the good stuff (water) in as well as to keep the bad stuff (chemicals, UV, pollution and bacteria) out. 

And there's life lesson number three: lack of sleep = poor barrier function = dry, dehydrated skin.

So, what should you take away from all this sleep intel? Simple. Number one, never underestimate the power of a good night's rest. If your skin is looking particularly sad or your under eye circles are out of control, turning in early should be an absolute priority. No arguments. And number two, overnight is a great time to help boost your skin's natural healing and repairing processes with some quality skincare products. Look to ingredients like retinol to amp up your anti-aging game, try hyaluronic acid to moisturize or go for salicylic acid to help unblock pores and improve cell turnover.

Trust us, your skin will be super grateful come the morning.

Fed up with buying candy, socks and other stocking stuffers you know your friends and family don’t really want? Yeah, we imagine they’re equally as fed up receiving them;) So, this year, step up your gifting game with some skincare treats they’ll love.

We’ve rounded up ten TruSkin favorites that are guaranteed to go down a storm this holiday season…

1. C Plus Super Serum

Bursting with skincare’s finest and hardest-working ingredients, this anti-aging serum is a real gem for all skin types. Not only does it smell awesome thanks to pink grapefruit, lavender and ylang ylang essential oils, but the combination of 20 percent vitamin C and retinol are super-charged to fight dark spots and other signs of aging. The perfect gift for your BFF. We're calling it.

2. Daily Facial Rose Water Toner

A gorgeous, skin refreshing boost for everyone you love, this 100 percent pure rose water spray calms sensitive skin, hydrates dry skin, balances combination skin and soothes inflamed or acne-prone skin. Is there anything it can’t do? Not really. In fact, we recommend you employ the ‘one for them, one for me’ rule on this one. 

3. Vitamin C Serum

With over 45,000 reviews on Amazon, this top-of-the-class serum is formulated with what we truly believe is the best form of topical vitamin C – sodium ascorbyl phosphate (SAP). Less irritating than other forms of vitamin C, SAP has the unique ability to fight free radicals and brighten the skin. It's a real saviour for anyone who cares about the quality of their complexion. So, that’ll be everyone on your shopping list then (*adds five to cart).

4. Retinol Moisturizer

We can’t think of a single skincare ingredient that’s loved more by derms, skincare experts and beauty editors alike. Not one. Seen as the gold-standard of anti-aging ingredients, retinol is a must for anyone concerned about the effects of Father Time on their skin. It also plays like a dream when combined with hyaluronic acid in this clever little moisturizer. A great one for folks concerned about the 'w' word. That's wrinkles, btw.

5. Hyaluronic Acid Serum

Speaking of hyaluronic acid, our HA serum will bring joy to the skin of anyone on your holiday gift list. How so? Because hyaluronic acid is especially fabulous in the winter when skin is crying out for extra hydration. We combine it with vitamins C and E, plus organic jojoba oil to help seal all that moisture into your skin. Winner.

8. Retinol Serum

Surprisingly gentle, our Retinol Serum is a great shout for any discerning skincare fan. We blend retinol with glycerin, green tea, vitamin E and HA for one heckuva treatment that’s ideal for targeting the visible signs of aging including discolorations, poor texture, dryness, lines and wrinkles.

9. Eye Cream

With masks concealing most of our faces these days, the skin around the eyes is even more important than ever. Help friends and family look after theirs with our deeply moisturizing Eye Cream which helps take care of tired dry skin and unwanted lines around the eyes. After all, who doesn’t love a good eye cream?

10. Niacinamide Facial Serum

Say hello to the newest member of our TruSkin family, Niacinamide Facial Serum. Famed for its ability to smooth, brighten, balance and clarify the skin (although the list is so much longer than that) niacinamide is way gentler than many other active ingredients, so it's a real gem for sensitive skin types. We’re pretty excited about this new launch and it's going in every single one of our stockings. Our own included.

Skincare acronyms can be super confusing sometimes, but there are some terms you really should know about. Namely AHAs, BHAs and PHAs. Why? Because skincare acids could be just what your skincare routine has been waiting for.

Slapping acid on your face was probably not among the beauty tricks your beloved grandma told you about as a young girl. Cold cream, maybe. But skincare acids? We doubt that very much.

But the thing is, facial acids can help treat any number of skincare concerns including acne, scarring, pigmentation, dull skin, dryness, heck even fine lines and wrinkles. And while they used to be only available via chemical peels or professional facials, smaller concentrations of these little dreamboats are now widely available in skincare formulations.

So, while dear grandma’s secret to ageless skin might well have been her trusty cold cream, for you newer generations it’s all about the alpha, beta and polyhydroxy acids – or more simply put, AHAs, BHAs and PHAs.

Here’s what we know…

A Look At AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids)

Alpha hydroxy acids are water-soluble chemical compounds that can be naturally occurring or synthetically produced. Most AHAs are extracted from fruit or milk sugars and they’re used primarily in skincare for their exfoliation skills – which are top of the class, btw.

Unlike physical exfoliators like scrubs and loofahs which manually slough away dead skin cells, chemical exfoliators like AHAs work to dissolve the bonds between skin cells to encourage the dead, dull ones to fall off. This process helps accelerate cell regeneration for a smoother, brighter, more even complexion. The extent of exfoliation depends on the type of AHA used, as well as its pH and concentration (usually around 4 percent for at-home use and up to 70 percent for professional peels).

The Benefits Of AHAs

You know those pesky visible signs of aging that freak you out every time you look in the mirror? Well, fighting the likes of fine lines, wrinkles and discoloration is what AHAs live for.

As you get older, the rate in which your skin cells turn over slows down which means dead skin cells hang around for way too long on the surface of your skin. This causes dullness, unevenness, dryness and dehydration which can age you up way before your time. By encouraging fresh new skin to grow, however, AHAs help solve these skin woes.

Also, if you regularly incorporate an AHA into your routine – whether through monthly chemical peels at the doctor’s office or with at-home skincare – it will continue to encourage collagen and elastin production for a cumulative anti-aging effect. We’ll take a group hug for news like that.

The Main AHA Players

Glycolic acid is the most highly researched of all the AHAs and is known as the do-it-all acid. Derived from sugar cane, glycolic acid has a very low molecular weight which makes it darn good at its job – AKA penetrating the skin. It’s a very popular peeling agent because of its efficiency and potency, but while it's great for normal, oily and acne-prone skin types, it can sometimes be irritating for sensitive complexions. 

This is where lactic acid comes into play. Lactic acid can be extracted from fermented milk sugars or vegan sources such as beets or tapioca and has a larger molecular size than its glycolic cousin. This means it doesn’t penetrate the skin quite as well, so it takes longer to take effect. Lactic acid is way gentler, however, and studies have shown that it can also have moisturizing benefits so is the safer bet for sensitive or dry skin types.

Our Eye Cream contains a clever blend of both glycolic and lactic acids

Next Up, We Have BHAs (beta hydroxy acids)

Just like AHAs, beta hydroxy acids work to increase cell regeneration through chemical rather than physical exfoliation. BHAs, however, are oil-soluble rather than water-soluble which means they not only accelerate cell turnover on the skin’s surface, but they also penetrate through the lipid layers between the skin cells to get deeper into your pores. This helps target and reduce excess sebum to clear as well as brighten the skin.

Again, the efficacy of any skincare formulation containing BHAs depends on its pH and concentration. In this case, anywhere between 0.5 and 5 percent should offer visible results.

The Benefits Of BHAs

BHAs are a massive deal for anyone struggling with oily, inflamed or spotty skin because they help reduce inflammation, fight bacteria and dry up excess oil. 

While dry, aging or dehydrated skin types dream of upping their sebum levels, for those oily or combination types among you, an excessive amount of sebum is the devil. Super-oily skin often clogs the pores and can lead to, like, a gazillion problems (OK, so we exaggerate, but if you suffer with breakouts it often feels this way, right?).  

The Main BHA Player

When it comes to BHAs, there’s only one player worth mentioning – mainly because it’s the only one used in cosmetics and dermatology, but still. This BHA, dear friends, is the mighty salicylic acid. Derived from the bark of willow trees and used to treat skin concerns for over 2,000 years, salicylic acid is found in thousands of acne-fighting treatments from cleansers and toners to serums and moisturizers. And the good news is, it works, without completely stripping the skin of moisture.

Not only does salicylic acid target pores and increase cell turnover, but it also has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties which is music to the ears of anyone who suffers with red, angry flare-ups.

C-Plus Super Serum contains just the right amount of salicylic acid

Finally, Don’t Forget PHAs (polyhydroxy acids)

While AHAs and BHAs have been around for years, PHAs are very much the NKOTB. Often seen as the underdogs of the hydroxy acids, PHAs are basically a new generation of water-soluble AHAs with all the exfoliating, cell regenerating benefits… but with less of the side-effects. The reason for their gentle nature? PHAs are formulated with multiple strands, so they have a larger molecular size than AHAs and are therefore unable to penetrate the deeper layers of your skin. Instead, they work exclusively on the skin’s surface to boost cell renewal without irritating your complexion.

The Benefits Of PHAs

PHAs are where to go if you’re concerned about the visible signs of aging but have super-sensitive skin – yes, even rosacea or atopic dermatitis. They might take a little longer to do their business, but if your skin flares up at even the thought of exfoliation, these are your guys. More good news for sensitive skin: PHAs have humectant and moisturizing qualities to help hydrate your skin and strengthen its natural protective barrier. As with all active ingredients, however, a patch test is still a good idea to triple-check for sensitivities.

The Main PHA Players

While a bit of a mouthful, gluconolactone (sometimes referred to as gluconic acid) is one PHA worth remembering – especially if you’re in the market for a mild exfoliation treatment for pigmentation issues like melasma and sun spots.

Lactobionic acid is another commonly used PHA which is an oxidized form of lactose and extracted from cow’s milk. Lactobionic acid has been shown to have antioxidant properties so it's a great choice for fighting the damaging effects of environmental stressors such as UV radiation and pollution.

One Last Word: Most skin acids make your skin more sensitive to the sun, so always apply a broad-spectrum SPF 30+ daily whenever using an AHA, BHA or PHA in your skincare routine.

When it comes to new skincare products, patience is a virtue. So, don’t get mad when your vitamin C serum doesn’t give you instantly glowing skin. Just get real and give it a chance.

We bet you’ve all been there: invested in a fancy, new overnight glow-getting serum that’s promised to give you radiant skin just like the advertising campaign portrays. You’ve smoothed it lovingly over your face with nervous excitement and anticipation of the miracle results you ‘know’ you’re going to be faced with after just one application… Then you’ve been sorely disappointed when you wake up with the same, average-looking complexion the next morning. Sigh.

Don’t worry, you’re not alone. Even the most seasoned beauty editor has put their every hope on a new product being ‘the one.’ But unlike your favorite red lipstick or those sexy black Manolos, skincare rarely offers such instant gratification.

So, how long should it really take before you see results from your new whizz-bang skincare product? Well, it all depends on the job that product is trying to accomplish. Is it a basic moisturizer simply there to relieve surface dryness? Then, yes, it should do that straight away. But if it's a retinol cream you’re hoping will help reduce enlarged pores and fine lines, it’s all about the long game, or more specifically working with your skin’s natural life cycle.

Here’s the deal. Your skin is constantly regenerating itself. Skin cells form within the deepest layers of your epidermis, then as they mature they work their way up to the surface of your skin where they die and shed. (Fun fact: you lose about 50 million skin cells every day. Yes, that's a lot.)

The life cycle of your skin takes around 28 days in an average adult, but it's much quicker when you’re younger and continually slows down as you age – no surprise there. This means any skincare product that works on a deeper, cellular level will also take at least 28 days to take effect and work on every cell that’s reached the surface of your skin. Makes sense? We hope so.

If you’re not sure what to expect from a new skincare product, the general rule of thumb is to give it about a month to do its best work. But let’s break it down a little more, shall we?

The Instant Gratifiers

Products that don’t claim to work on a deeper, cellular level are quite capable of getting the job done instantly. Most cleansers, for example, are simply there to remove dirt, oil and makeup from the surface of your skin so they're able to take care of business without requiring weeks of waiting. Similarly, toners, exfoliators and face masks all offer instant results because they work primarily on the uppermost levels of your skin. And we’re not saying this is a bad thing. Far from it. You just need to know that instant results rarely offer long-term advantages.

There are two main exceptions to this rule, however. Namely chemical exfoliation and moisturizer.

Chemical exfoliators such as those containing glycolic acid, lactic acid and salicylic acid offer both short and long-term benefits. A chemical exfoliator’s main job is to help accelerate sluggish cell turnover by loosening the bonds between dead skin cells so they’re able to shed more easily. This not only gives you instantly more radiant skin, but helps improve the strength, thickness, texture and tone of your skin in the long-term. Some may also help prevent congestion and pimples with continued use.

Depending on what you were using before, a new moisturizer might also give you both immediate and long-term benefits. Most moisturizers contain a combination of humectants, emollients and/or occlusives to draw moisture into your skin and hold it there. This offers all manner of instant relief such as immediate hydration and skin softening benefits. But you’ll also reap enhanced results over time (usually between two and six weeks) as all these ingredients work hard to maintain moisture and improve your skin’s barrier function.

Moisturizers (and in some cases, cleansers) may also contain other active ingredients such as retinol or vitamin C, so if this is the case you should always play the slightly longer waiting game for the best results.

Speaking of which…

The Long Game Players

Any formulation that works on a deep, cellular level and causes semi-permanent changes to the biological makeup of your skin will need at least four weeks of patience and continued use. This will allow the active ingredients to work on a whole cycle of skin cells, by which point those cells will be visible on the surface to give you an indication of how effective (or not) the product has been.

Long game players include the likes of retinoids, growth factors, peptides, antioxidants like vitamin C and any ingredient that claims to treat acne. And while we said that 28 days is the sweet spot for the tortoises in this skincare race, sometimes six or seven weeks is required before you’ll see the best results. In fact retinol often only reaps true rewards after two months of continued use. We repeat, patience is a virtue.

When it comes to treating discolorations, be extra sensible with your expectations – especially during summer when those evil rays from the sun will be fighting hard to combat any good you’re doing with your active skincare routine. Give all brightening products (yes, even hydroquinone) two or three months to do their best work and wear a broad-spectrum SPF daily to ensure the sun doesn’t win the pigmentation war.

Finally, Don’t Forget

Introducing new products into your skincare routine should never be rushed. Always perform a patch test first to help reduce irritation, and only ever introduce new products one at a time, giving yourself two weeks before trying another. This will help you understand if there are certain products and ingredients your skin might not tolerate.

Any new product that makes your skin itchy, sore, red, peel or break out means it might not be the right fit for your routine. Granted, some ingredients such as retinol have this kind of ‘purging’ effect in the short-term, but if symptoms persist or get worse, stop using it and visit a board-certified expert for advice.