The Lowdown On AHAs, BHAs and PHAs In Skincare

Menopausal skin can be anything from slightly tricky to downright terrible. But wayward hormones needn’t get the better off you. You just need to know what to expect and get ahead of the game.

How times have changed. Rewind ten, maybe just five years ago and the ‘m’ word was never spoken about. This important life-changing period of time that happens to every single woman alive, literally brushed under the carpet as if it were some dirty secret. Total madness.

Thankfully, we live in different times and the menopause (there, we said it!) is now a topic we can openly talk about without feeling ashamed or, heaven’s forbid, old. Because it’s an important time and can bring a lot of unsettling uncertainties to any woman going through this perfectly natural stage of life. Hot flashes, weight gain, mood swings, zero energy, they can all go hand in hand with the menopause.

And then there’s your skin which also has its own challenges to contend with.

How The Menopause Affects Your Skin

The menopause can be split into three stages. Perimenopause begins first, usually in a woman’s 40s (although it can start as early as your 30s and as late as your 50s). This period of your life refers to the time in which your body starts to transition out of your reproductive years and into the menopause. Your body’s production of hormones (mainly estrogen and progesterone, but also testosterone to a certain degree) starts to decline, your periods become irregular and a few of the classic side effects may come to fruition. Fun times!

Then you obviously get the menopause which is when your body’s hormones cause you to completely stop menstruating (which can take many years) and all those fabulous (said with a side of irony) side-effects get stronger and more frequent. More fun times. Once menopause is over and you’ve stopped ovulating for a year you’re then said to be in the postmenopause and will be forever more.

As you progress through these different stages, your hormones are all over the place which is never great news for the health of your skin. You see, hormone fluctuations can affect your levels of sebum (cue dryness). Not only that but they upset your collagen production which is already declining as part of the natural aging process (cue wrinkles and sagging skin). Estrogen is also important for helping your skin to retain water so when these levels decrease your skin can’t hydrate itself as efficiently (cue dehydration).

Of course, changes in your skin depend on your skin type but, no matter what, you can inevitably look forward to some kind of ‘unpredictability’ during the menopausal years of your life.

5 Ways To Care For Menopausal Skin

If you’ve started to notice that your skin is misbehaving a little more than it used to, chances are you’re in the stage of your life in which your hormones have become, shall we say, less reliable. Read on for a few effective ways to help keep your skin in check as your hormones are very much not!

1. Be Kind

The most important thing to remember? Don’t panic. Freaking out and overcompensating for dry skin, dehydration, breakouts or wrinkles that were never before is a sure-fire way to irritate your skin. Instead, be gentle with your skin, cleansing, toning and treating it with kindness and respect. Most importantly, avoid ingredients like synthetic fragrances and harsh alcohols that will strip your skin and generate further problems you didn’t sign up for.

A great way to do this? Switch out your regular cleanser for Soothing Cleansing Milk which is perfect for menopausal skin, nurturing and calming your barrier function while bringing vital hydration and even a little exfoliation to the table.

2. Moisturize To The Max

Research shows that the most common skin complaint during the menopause is dry, irritated, and often itchy skin. This is all thanks to lowering levels of estrogen (an important skin hydrator) as well as reduced sebum. Without both of these important moisturizing tools, water is able to escape more easily from the surface of your skin which leads to dryness, dehydration and everything that comes with it.

To help get ahead of this, you’re going to want to introduce a hydrating serum as well as a really good moisturizer into your daily regime. Try the kick-ass combo of our Multi-Vitamin Facial Serum and Renewing Longevity Moisturizing Cream every morning, and Vitamin C Deep Hydration Night Cream before bed.

3. Use Smart Skincare Ingredients To Control Breakouts

Cell turnover becomes super sluggish during this time in your life which gives dead skin cells a free ticket to hang around at the surface of your skin and make your complexion look kind of dull. When it’s combined with wayward hormones it’s also asking for acne breakouts to do a real number on your skin. For most people these are mild and easily managed with healing, anti-inflammatory skincare ingredients like salicylic acid, niacinamide and tea tree oil – well, hello there Tea Tree Face Wash and Tea Tree Super Serum+.

If you feel like yours are more serious and out of control, however, seek help from a dermatologist.

4. Look After Your Collagen

It’s thought that skin loses a massive 30 percent of its natural collagen levels during the first five years of the menopause. Sound like a lot, right? Yeah, that’s because it is. And collagen is extremely important for the strength, firmness and elasticity of your skin so you’ve got to do everything you can to keep it healthy and plentiful.

How to do this? With a healthy diet, good sleep, marginal stress (preferably none at all, but it’s OK, we’re all human) and some smart skincare choices. Namely retinol at night (is there anything retinol isn’t good for?!), alongside our fabulous Collagen range which includes Smoothing Collagen Serum, Firming Collagen Day Lotion and our Collagen Boosting Skin Supplement which contains vegetarian collagen (none of that animal stuff for us, thanks) alongside skin-strengthening vitamins, biotin and acai.

5. Apply SPF Like Your Skin Depends On It

Because, heads up, it actually does. Dark spots are likely to get darker, bigger and more prevalent during your menopausal years as decades of sun exposure combine with wild hormones, causing your melanin to lose control of itself. Your fine lines and wrinkles are equally likely to suffer thanks to a lack of collagen helping to reinforce the strength and plumpness of your skin. Sigh.

Our advice? Don’t leave the house without applying SPF 30 Mineral Sunscreen with Vitamin C to your face and neck. It’s packed with sun-protective zinc oxide as well as aloe vera to hydrate and nourish your skin and a TruSkin favorite, brightening vitamin C. It’s basically a skincare must. Every. Day. Of. The Year.

Retinol is arguably one of the most lauded skincare ingredients out there. We don’t dispute that. But if you don’t get on with retinol, what are the alternatives? Read on for eight other skincare greats that can be just as effective for aging skin.

Retinol? We approve. In fact we have a whole bunch of skincare formulations, including an awesome serum and moisturizer, based around this skincare powerhouse. However, while its benefits to your skin are undeniable, it’s not the only ingredient that helps aging skin. Sure, it’s been proven time and again to nudge collagen synthesis and encourage faster cellular turnover. And yes, this simultaneously works to improve the visible appearance of pimples, dark spots, fine lines and wrinkles. But retinol is not without its faults. Ask anyone with sensitive skin and they will attest to its sometimes irritating, redness-inducing qualities.

The good news is that when retinol isn’t playing ball, there are tons of other incredible ingredients that can help deal with your skin woes just as well. Some might even be a more effective option for you – depending on your skin goals, of course. So let’s check them out, shall we?

1. Bakuchiol

New (ish) to the skincare game, but already giving retinol run for its money, bakuchiol is your guy if you’re looking to replicate the effects of retinol, but are so not in the market for dryness, redness, peeling or irritation.

Bakuchiol (pronounced bah-koo-chee-awl) is nature’s best alternative to retinol. Extracted from the seeds and leaves of the babchi plant, it’s been used for centuries in Chinese and Ayurvedic medicine and, if recent clinical studies are anything to go by, it’s shown real promise for dramatically improving the surface of the skin. How does it do this? By stimulating collagen synthesis and accelerating cellular turnover at a deep, below-the-surface level. And if this sounds familiar, that’s because this is exactly what retinol does. The difference is that bakuchiol is more gentle on the skin so has way fewer side effects. If any at all.

We’re big fans of bakuchiol (if you couldn’t tell!) and based an entire range of healthy aging formulations on this awesome ingredient. Try the lot with our Longevity Regimen Bundle which includes Renewing Moisturizing Cream, Depuffing Eye Cream and Rejuvenating Serum to tackle the signs of aging from all angles.

2. Ceramides

We know you’ve heard of ceramides, but do you know what they actually are? Well, ceramides are important lipids found naturally in your skin’s structure where they play a major role in the efficiency of your barrier function, binding your cells together while helping your skin to maintain strength, stability and protection from the outside world.

Unfortunately, skin loses ceramides as it ages and this compromises your barrier function, resulting in anything from the odd bit of dryness through to rough texture and some serious premature aging. Not cool.

Topical ceramides, however, can be a great addition to your skincare routine, boosting moisture, strengthening your BFF (barrier function friend, that is!) and, in turn, helping to fight back against wrinkles and sagging skin. Try our fabulous Firming Collagen Day Lotion and Smoothing Collagen Serum dynamic duo to get your fill.

3. Glycolic Acid

As a fully paid up member of the AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) club, glycolic acid is a chemical exfoliant that helps accelerate cell turnover by breaking the bonds between dead skin cells and encouraging them to split. Retinol does the same, albeit it in a very different way.

Full disclosure, glycolic acid’s potency is on a par with retinol so it does have a tendency to overpower certain sensitive skin types. But as long as you use it carefully, introducing it slowly and not overdoing it, it can be a great way to brighten and smooth the skin while helping to fade dark spots.

Glycolic acid is also a smart choice if you’re looking to reduce acne breakouts. (Ha, no thanks we’ll keep them as they are, thanks – said nobody, ever!). It works by helping to keep your pores clean and free of dead skin cells, which makes them appear tighter and stops them from becoming blocked and inflamed. Want in on some of that? Then treat your skin with 6% AHA, BHA + PHA Liquid Exfoliant two or three times a week. You won’t regret it.

4. Hyaluronic Acid

Without a decent amount of hydration, skin is nothing. Moisture helps keep your skin plump, soft, smooth and youthful-looking, reducing the appearance of redness, fine lines and wrinkles while smoothing rough texture and firming sagging skin. It figures, therefore, that if you don’t keep your well hydrated it will age up in no time. And no amount of retinol will be able to stop it!

Enter hyaluronic acid (HA) to the skincare scene. A master of hydration, HA can hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water, drawing moisture to the surface of your skin when applied topically. It’s also very well tolerated by all skin types (your skin naturally contains HA so, of course it loves it!).

Granted, hyaluronic acid doesn’t have the ability to boost skin turnover, but don’t hold that against it because it does have antioxidant powers to protect your skin against environmental free radicals and safeguard your all-important collagen and elastin supplies. We’ll take that. Try our Hyaluronic Acid Facial Serum and see for yourself what a fantastic ingredient it really is.

5. MSM

Otherwise known as methylsulfonylmethane, MSM is a naturally-occurring form of sulfur that’s regularly used in skincare. It often gets overlooked, however, because big guns like retinol, vitamin C and glycolic acid like to take all the glory. Pretty unfair if you ask us – especially because it’s so freakin’ good!

Sulfur is one of the most important elements in the human body and it’s often touted as the ‘beauty’ or ‘healing’ mineral because it accelerates healthy blood flow, reduces inflammation, and plays a key role in the production of collagen and keratin. MSM does all this AND works hard to fight environmental damage by helping to increase your production of glutathione, one of the body’s most important, naturally occurring antioxidants.

MSM also gets extra bonus points for increasing your skin’s permeability. This allows toxins to escape more easily and enhances your skin’s ability to absorb all those delicious, active ingredients in your skincare products, allowing them to penetrate the skin quicker and deeper. AKA better. Try our turbo powered Vitamin C Super Serum+ for your fix of MSM… as well as other skin-restoring greats.

6. Niacinamide

Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3 and a total powerhouse for mature skin, helping to address all manner of concerns including dehydration, discoloration, dryness, poor texture, fine lines, wrinkles and even redness and irritation.

An absolute go-to for sensitive souls, niacinamide is an awesome alternative to retinol because it’s well tolerated by all skin types and even helps to calm and soothe irritation caused by chronic skin conditions like rosacea and eczema. It works by increasing the production of ceramides in the top layers, helping to look after that all-important barrier function and improving the strength, resiliency and moisture levels of your delicate skin. As you know, dry skin is terrible for the appearance of line and wrinkles so anything you can do to help maintain a legitimate amount of hydration will simultaneously help your skin look more youthful and glowy.

Niacinamide also fights free radicals and regulates oil production so it’s a pretty fabulous choice for oily, aging skin. But that being said, it’s a pretty fabulous choice for ALL skin types. Which is why our Niacinamide Facial Serum is such a baller.

7. Peptides

When it comes to boosting your supplies of skin-loving collagen and elastin, peptides have your back. How so? Well, just like proteins, peptides are chemical compounds made up of amino acids. And because they’re so closely related – peptides are short chains of no more than 50 amino acids, whereas proteins are much longer molecules of multiple peptides – peptides signal your skin to be more efficient in its synthesis of vital proteins like collagen and elastin. Some peptides also encourage your skin to produce more hyaluronic acid which is great for hydration and free radical protection.

Of course, some peptides are better than others. Many are unstable, some are too large to be able to penetrate your skin and others just don’t perform that well. So make sure you’re looking for the good ones when choosing your anti-aging weapon.

Matrixyl 3000, for example, is a combination of two peptides that has been independently proven to boost collagen in your skin, offering true results for a whole host of skin concerns including fine lines, wrinkles, dark spots and hormonal breakouts. We also love palmitoyl tripeptides-1 and -5, and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 which combine to offer a true force for pumping up your much-needed supplies of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid. Find them in our incredible Peptide Facial Serum.

8. Vitamin C

Last, but never least, is vitamin C which, as you know, means the world to us at TruSkin. With no less than eight skincare formulations based on the prowess of this antioxidant dreamboat, we basically live and breathe vitamin C. No word of a lie!

The reason we love it so? Simple. Vitamin C is one of the most trusted and clinically-proven ingredients known to skin. It provides the very best in environmental protection (read stronger, healthier skin), controls melanin production (hello brighter skin and a more even skin tone) and gives your sunscreen an extra helping hand to shield your skin from the daily onslaught of damaging UV radiation. All of this adds up to stronger, youthful-looking skin that maintains its firmness, radiance, smoothness and evenness. Yes, even if you are closer to 80 than 20 ;)

Our classic Vitamin C Facial Serum is always a winner, no matter your skin type, but you must also try the divine Vitamin C Deep Hydration Night Cream before bed each night to restore your skin as you sleep and power it up for another day.

Read on for five of the most important skincare habits for preventing collagen loss.

Fact of the day: skin is nothing without collagen. It’s the most abundant protein in the entire human body and accounts for somewhere between 80 and 90 percent of all proteins found in your skin.

It is not to be taken for granted.

As far as your skin goes, collagen is what gives it strength, structure and support. It kind of holds everything together like a clever network of protein-based scaffolding. It’s really good stuff. Like, REALLY good.

One major problem, however: while super abundant during your younger years – hence that plump, firm skin you might just about remember – collagen production dramatically drops as you get older. This is all thanks to your natural aging process as well everything else the world throws at you – stress, the sun, environmental pollution and a cruddy diet to name just a few. And while you can’t stop or reverse time, all these other lifestyle factors are very much in your control.

On that note, below are five of the most important ways to help preserve your levels of collagen as much as possible. It’s time to take charge, people!

1. Be 100% Sun Smart

No matter how many times we stress the importance of sun protection there are still people out there who don’t apply daily sunscreen to shield their skin from the damaging ways of the sun.

Bonkers.

After the ticking clocks of time, the sun is the number one cause of aging skin. In fact, UVA rays, in particular, penetrate deep into the dermis of your skin where they really do a number on your collagen. According to the Skin Cancer Foundation, damage from UV light results in over 80 percent of all your lines, wrinkles, textural issues and dark spots. Ouch!

The good news, however, is that you can block around 97 percent of the sun’s rays simply by applying a good, broad-spectrum sunscreen to exposed skin on the reg. And we make this super easy for your face. Simply slather on a good coating of SPF 30 Mineral Sunscreen with Vitamin C every morning as the last step in your skincare routine. Reapply every couple of hours if you’re spending a prolonged period of time in the great outdoors. And you are winning.

2. Don’t Smoke

Tobacco contains more than 7,000 harmful chemicals and substances that not only screw up your lungs, but are an absolute b*tch when it comes to your collagen levels and the health of your skin. Also, the more you smoke, the worse your skin will look, potentially giving your 40-year-old skin the wrinkles of someone in their 60s!

“Smoking slows the body’s ability to heal itself by decreasing blood flow and inhibiting inflammation,” explain experts at the American Osteopathic College of Dermatology.

It also promotes the production of collagen-damaging enzymes and free radicals which eventually manifests itself in crow’s feet around the eyes, puckering lines around the mouth and that tell-tale ‘smoker’s face.’

Don’t. Do. It. Your skin needs you.

3. Choose A Collagen-Friendly Skincare Routine

Another great way to keep your collagen levels in check? With an awesome skincare routine. Some of the best skincare ingredients for collagen, IOHO, are retinol (literally the daddy of everything!), bakuchiol (retinol’s gentler, natural alternative), peptides (which help to encourage protein production), MSM (a very under rated collagen booster) and the mighty vitamin C (which laughs in the face of collagen-damaging free radicals). All of these have been studied and proven to stimulate your skin’s natural collagen production and inhibit its breakdown, so it’s wise to include at least one in your daily skincare routine. We love the combination of Smoothing Collagen Serum followed by Firming Collagen Day Lotion in the morning, and Retinol Facial Serum at night.

You could also try our fabulous Collagen Boosting Skin Supplement which, unlike other substandard collagen powders and pills contains vegetarian collagen only, alongside vitamins C, E, and biotin, a form of vitamin B known to promote cell growth and repair. This all adds up to a kick-butting blend that significantly and safely helps improve your skin’s natural production of quality collagen for a visible reduction in the appearance of wrinkles, better elasticity, superior hydration and brighter, healthier-looking skin.

4. Avoid Sugar

A well-rounded diet that’s high in lean protein, antioxidants and omega fatty acids is super important for the health of your skin. But one thing your skin, and in particular your collagen, really loathes? Sugar.

Studies show that overdoing it with sugar accelerates the accumulation of advanced glycation end products (AGEs) in your body through a process called glycation. Glycation is a reaction that occurs when excessive amounts of sugar become too much for your natural insulin levels to handle. These sugar molecules then attack your skin cells, latching onto collagen (and elastin, for that matter!) and causing them to stiffen, weaken, break down and produce harmful AGEs. AGEs ruin your radiant, youthful complexion by causing dryness and exacerbating fine lines and wrinkles.

A good way to reduce your sugar intake is to swap out refined sugars for sweeteners that have lower glycemic index values – things like agave or monk sweeteners or great. Also, ditch the sodas, people. Water is your much better friend.

5. Master The Art Of Quality Sleep

Finally, underestimate the power of regular, quality sleep at your peril. When you sleep, your skin goes into recharge mode and collagen production speeds up big time to help repair damage from the day and prepare your skin for the next. Miss out on those valuable hours of shut-eye and your skin simultaneously misses out on all that fresh, skin-strengthening collagen it deserves.

Studies show that people who regularly get around eight hours of quality sleep each night have way better skin than those who only get five or so hours. But if you struggle, follow these simple fixes for a better night’s sleep.

* Stick To A Schedule – going to bed and waking up at the same time each day? Priceless.

* Keep Your Bedroom Cool – experts agree the ideal temperature for sleeping should be somewhere between 65 and 67oF.

* Limit Screentime – phones, tablets, laptops and TVs all emit light which makes it hard for your body to wind down at the end of the day. Switch them off a good hour before bedtime.

* Avoid Caffeine Before Bed – in fact, it’s often best to only drink caffeine in the morning. If at all.