Our Best Advice For Dealing With Acne Scars
Getting to grips with acne scars is not as hard as you think. You just need to know where to turn.
Whether you have scars from teenage acne or are worried your adult acne could be causing your skin long-term harm, here’s everything you need to know in order to stay ahead of the acne scarring game.
Firstly, what causes acne scars? Well, they’re the result of inflammation in the skin due to pimples and blemishes. Breakouts occur when a build-up of excess oils, dead skin cells, dirt and bacteria clogs up your pores making them swell and cause damage to the follicles, tissues and skin around them. When pimples heal, your skin goes into serious repair mode, producing collagen in various quantities in an attempt to get it structurally, functionally and aesthetically back to ‘normal’. Sadly, this doesn’t always work out as well as you’d like and often your skin produces either too much or too little collagen, resulting in bumpy or pitted skin – otherwise known as acne scars.
It’s important, however, to know that not all acne scars are created equal…
What Are The Different Types Of Acne Scars?
Many pimples come and go without leaving you scars to prove they’ve ever been there. But this is not always the case. Even if you’ve left well alone and not so much as touched a pimple, let alone squeezed, picked or prodded it, it can still cause long-term scarring. According to the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) whether or not your acne leaves a scar is down to a number of things. Inflammatory acne, for example, which is deep, red and painful is way more likely to scar than a less serious-looking pimple – especially if left untreated. And then there are your genes. Say no more…
Acne scars also come in two different guises.
1. Atrophic Acne Scars
Atrophic scars include any kind of acne scar that’s depressed below the surface of your skin. They occur when the healing process produces too little collagen, causing a pit, dent or ‘hole’ in your skin. Atrophic scars come in all different shapes in sizes but usually fall into one of three categories: ice pick scars (narrow, almost pin-like looking scars); boxcar scars (slightly wider and rounded); or rolling scars (which create wave-like depressions across the surface of your skin).
2. Hypertrophic Acne Scars
While less common than atropic acne scars, hypertrophic acne scars are thickened areas of skin that are raised and often itchy. They occur when too much collagen is produced during the healing process and scar tissue consequently builds up above the surface. This type of acne scar is more likely to appear on your chest, back or shoulders than on your face. Which is something, at least.
Then there’s post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) which isn’t actually scarring at all, but a whole other business. PIH is a type of discoloration that appears when some kind of trauma – in this case, acne – causes your skin to overproduce melanin and leaves you with a dark or uneven patch of skin. Unlike acne scars, PIH isn’t pitted or raised and often heals with good sun protection and the use of topical antioxidant treatments like Vitamin C Facial Serum. Let’s put a pin in PIH for now…
Why Prevention Is Always Better Than Cure
The sad news is that acne scars are notoriously hard to get rid of. Which is why avoiding acne in the first place with a gentle cleansing, balancing and moisturizing routine is super important. Our Charcoal Clarifying Cleanser is a great choice for keeping your skin clean and clear of pore-clogging debris, and try Retinol Moisturizer to improve cell turnover and keep your skin healthy and moisturized.
Of course, you can never tell if a pimple will scar or not, but if you do get one, avoid picking at it because this really won’t help. Instead, stop it from getting worse by spot treating with Tea Tree Super Serum+. This smart treatment contains salicylic acid and tea tree oil to keep your pores clean, plus healing aloe and hydrating hyaluronic acid to stop your skin from drying out. Also, look out for anti-inflammatory ingredients across your whole regime – think ceramides, green tea, chamomile and niacinamide (oh, hi there Niacinamide Serum).
How To Help Treat Acne Scars
Too late to employ the ‘prevention is better than cure’ rule? Don’t sweat it, there are still plenty of options for helping to treat, fade or smooth out existing acne scars.
At Home
Unfortunately, skincare alone can’t totally heal acne scars. However, some things will certainly help fade discoloration and give your skin a smoother appearance. Gentle exfoliation, for one, is a great way to improve your skin’s texture by sloughing away dead skin cells and improving cellular turnover. Facial scrubs are the obvious choice, but chemical exfoliation is also very effective. Again, our salicylic acid-enriched Tea Tree Super Serum+ is a great shout, but if you’re applying it all over, use it just two or three times a week – it’s potent stuff.
Make sure your routine also contains retinol in some form. As well as helping to speed up collagen production and cell regeneration for healthier, smoother skin, retinol is fabulous for fading uneven skin tone. Try our Retinol Facial Serum in the evenings when you’re not using your tea tree serum.
At The Derm’s Office
Serious acne scars are going to need more than great skincare, so if yours are getting you down and won’t go away, pay a visit to your dermatologist for advice on how best to treat your particular concerns. Dermabrasion, microdermabrasion and chemical peels are awesome for resurfacing your skin and encouraging fresh, new skin cells to grow, whereas dermal fillers can significantly help reduce the appearance of pitted, atrophic scars. You could also try laser resurfacing, microneedling or even surgery.
The options as they say, are endless.
More About This Article
Georgia Gould
Georgia is an award-winning beauty writer who has been in the business for over 20 years. British-born, she began her career as a magazine beauty editor in London before moving to San Francisco, CA in 2012 where she now continues her love as a freelance writer and editor. As well as her editorial work, Georgia has created content for many high-profile beauty brands, including Clarins, L’Oréal, Procter & Gamble, Simple and TRESemmé. Her passions include retinol (obviously), golfing, skiing and walking her beloved Schnauzer, Dave.
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They might not be inflamed like pimples, or ‘dirty’ looking like their blackhead cousins, but nobody wants to deal with whiteheads.
Whiteheads can plague pretty much any skin type and can strike at any time of your life. But, like any type of acne, all is not lost when you’re armed with intel (and intel is incoming, don’t you worry), patience (sorry, we can’t help with that one) and the right tools to help eliminate those pesky skin bumps. Those, we can also do.
Here's everything you need to know about whiteheads, including what they are, what causes them and how to win the battle… as well as the war.
What Exactly Are Whiteheads?
Like pimples and blackheads, whiteheads are a form of acne most often found on the face, back or chest. According to the AAD, acne is the single most common skin condition in the country, affecting around 50 million people every year and often continuing from adolescence into adulthood. So, remember, if you’re suffering right now, you are not alone.
Acne, in all its various shapes and sizes, occurs when sebum and dead skin cells collect at the surface of the skin, clogging up the pore and forming a kind of hard plug that makes said pore swell and become raised.
What happens next determines the type of acne that rears its ugly head (or not, as the case may be!)… If the pore stays closed, it produces a white or pale yellowish bump called a whitehead. If it opens at the surface and becomes exposed to air it oxidizes, turns dark and becomes a blackhead. And if it becomes inflamed it becomes what we regularly refer to as a pimple. Pimples range in severity and can be pretty innocent (pink and tender) to extremely angry, painful and filled with pus.
All fun stuff. Not!
So, What Causes Whiteheads?
Contrary to many ridiculous old wives’ tales, whiteheads are not caused by chocolate or poor cleansing habits. Same goes for any type of acne. Their cause is solely thanks to excess sebum combining with keratin and dead skin cells. This little cocktail of 'gunk' then gets stuck in your pores and results in all sorts of acne-related problems.
However, there are many triggers and lifestyle factors that increase your risk of developing whiteheads. Your genes, for one thing (darn those parents of yours!). Then there are other factors like heavy, buttery moisturizers which can sit on the surface of your skin and block your pores; a diet that’s high in sugar and processed carbs, and wayward hormones – which is why puberty, menstruation and the menopause are such major times for breakouts.
5 Of The Best Ways To Deal With Whiteheads
So, what can you do to help prevent clogged pores and help stop whiteheads in their tracks? And what about when they still manage to break their way through your smooth complexion? What can be done then? Well, here are five of our favorite ways to cope with whiteheads.
And PS: if blackheads and pimples are more your jam, these tips work across the entire acne board. You’re welcome.
1. Never Squeeze Your Whiteheads
Yes, it’s tempting and weirdly satisfying to prod, poke, pick and squeeze whiteheads. But don’t. This can spread bacteria which, in turn, makes matters far worse in the long run. It can also lead to scarring. Which is not cool.
Whiteheads tend to disappear and heal much faster if you keep your fingers away. However, if it does look ready to pop, you can apply a warm flannel then gently press the surrounding skin away (not towards) the whitehead to help it drain. A gentle touch is the key here, however, and if it nothing shifts, leave well alone and let nature take its course.
2. Know That Regular Cleansing Is Vital
The best way to stop sebum (and other debris like makeup and sweat) from building up on the surface of your skin? Easy, a good cleansing routine. Of course, stripping your skin of every last drop of oil and moisture will make your skin flare-up even more, so don’t go down that road. It’s so 80s!
Instead, choose finely balanced cleansing products like Tea Tree Super Cleanser + which contains purifying, acne-busting goodies like tea tree oil and witch hazel, combined with healing champs like MSM and chamomile, and hydrating wonderkids like aloe vera and botanical oils.
Cleanse every morning, every night and again after working out (one word: sweat!), using warm, not hot water and concentrating on any problematic areas like around your nose and over your forehead. You won’t see results immediately, but trust us, make this cleansing routine a daily habit and your skin will soon thank you.
3. Add A Little Retinol To Your Night Time Routine
Retinol is the gold-standard of anti-aging skincare. But did you know it also makes for a pretty mean acne-fighting machine?
Retinol is an over-the-counter derivative of vitamin A that increases cell turnover by attaching itself to nuclear receptors in the center of your cells. Without getting too technical, this is where genetic information is stored and where major cellular functions are processed. Once attached to these receptors, retinol activates certain genes to accelerate cell turnover and help encourage dead skin cells to shed more efficiently. This helps keep your pores from clogging up and breaking out. Pretty neat, huh? As you can probably guess, we’re big fans over here.
Try our Retinol Facial Serum or Retinol Moisturizer if you want to get in on the action.
Just remember, as great as retinol is, it’s very potent and extremely active, so always patch test any new product first, then start using it slowly by applying it just two or three evenings a week to clean, dry skin. As you build tolerance, you can then work up to nightly use.
4. Avoid Abrasive Scrubs & Harsh Chemicals
Like squeezing whiteheads, it’s tempting to want to throw all sorts of scrubs, astringent lotions and products that contain drying alcohols at them. Massive mistake. This can seriously compromise your skin’s barrier function which invites all manner of other issues to the party. Think irritation, redness, itching and all sorts. Remember, skin-friendly, plant-powered products are always best.
5. Embrace The Powers Of Salicylic Acid
Exfoliation is super important for ensuring those dead skin cells don’t get stuck at the surface of your skin. But you’ve got to be kind as you exfoliate because too much can over-stimulate your sebaceous glands and can make matter worse.
Instead of harsh scrubs, we recommend sticking with exfoliating acids that work specifically on breaking down dead skin cells, without any need for unnecessary pressure or friction.
Salicylic acid, for example, is a total shoo-in for oily, problematic skin as it not only dissolves the ‘glue’ that binds dead skin cells together, but it’s oil-soluble which means it’s able to penetrate into your sebaceous glands to loosen sebum and unblock pores. We combine this oily skin hero with all manner of balancing, brightening and soothing ingredients in our 6% AHA, BHA + PHA Liquid Exfoliant. We recommend you add to cart immediately.
Still not able to get on top of your whitehead situation? Then check-in with a skincare professional for further advice and/or recommendations. There are plenty of options out there, from hormone therapy to laser treatments, so don't lose heart, you've got this.
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The truth is, glowing skin will always be in.
Oh, the heady heights of glowing, healthy skin. Whether you prefer to use the term ‘bright,’ ‘glowy,’ ‘dewy’ or ‘radiant’: we can’t think of a single person who wouldn’t want their skin to be described by one (or all!) of these words. Why is it such an elusive and lusted-after skin condition? Because no matter your skin type or how many wrinkles you do or don’t have, nail that radiant glow and everything else pales into insignificance.
But, how to get glowing skin? Now there’s a question that has as many answers as we’ve had hot dinners.
You can start with what goes in your body, of course, taking a look at your diet and ensuring you chow down on plenty of antioxidant-rich fruit and veggies and cut back on things like booze, sugar, salt and processed carbs. This helps nix skin-damaging free radicals to ensure your skin turns over efficiently and remains healthy from the inside out, making it a great place to start.
There are also things like exercising outdoors to get your blood flowing, massaging your skin as you cleanse, getting plenty of shut-eye and faking it with highlighting makeup and shimmering face powders.
But skincare is our thing, so today we’re going to focus on that.
There are many awesome ingredients and products out there that claim to rejuvenate your skin and freshen up your complexion, but what are the true tried and tested contenders? Keep scrolling for, what we believe, are five of the best products for glowing skin.
1. The Definitive Glow-Giving Facial Serum
Let’s get one thing straight, there’s no better skincare ingredient for boosting a radiant glow than vitamin C. Vitamin C (otherwise known as l-ascorbic acid) has been researched to death over the years and it’s been proven to offer all manner of skin-boosting benefits – glowier skin being just one of them.
So how does this powerhouse work? Well, further to its antioxidant powers, which in themselves are great for strengthening your collagen supplies and improving cell turnover, it also helps slow down melanin production. Melanin, as you know, is what gives your skin its individual color and, when you expose your skin to UV radiation, it’s also what makes you tan. However, melanin production isn’t always smooth sailing. In fact, many triggers such as unbalanced hormones and too much sun can make your melanin go all over the place, resulting in patchy skin, dark spots and hyperpigmentation. No fun. No fun at all.
We believe vitamin C should be a staple in anyone’s skincare regime, but we also understand that it’s a potent ingredient that can cause sensitivities in certain skin types. This is why we infuse all of our vitamin C products with a milder version called sodium ascorbyl phosphate.
When it comes to looking for your perfect match for brightening your skin, you could literally take your pick of our entire vitamin C range, but for a classic favorite, you can’t go wrong with Vitamin C Facial Serum. We believe it’s a winner. Over 140,000 people on Amazon agree with us. We rest our case.
2. The Moisturizer With The Most
If you’re yet to try our new Renewing Longevity Moisturizing Cream you are missing out. It doesn’t contain vitamin C – because choices – but it is powered up by another ingredient that’s already making headlines for all the right reasons: bakuchiol.
Bakuchiol is nature’s alternative to the mighty retinol. Extracted from the seeds and leaves of the babchi plant, it’s fast becoming hot property in the skincare world due to its extraordinary skin benefits (just like retinol) and lack of irritating side-effects (unlike retinol!). We mean no offense to retinol, of course, because it’s still one of, if not THE gold standard of skincare. However, it’s not for everyone and bakuchiol has undergone plenty of studies that show it’s right up there, stimulating collagen synthesis and accelerating cellular turnover in a very similar way to rid your skin of unwanted dead skin cells and help improve your radiance factor.
We have a whole collection of products that harness the powers of bakuchiol but for a great introduction to the range, try this deliciously smooth moisturizer that’s ideal for all skin persuasions, including sensitive skin.
3. The One That’s In It For The Long Game
Admittedly this one might not make your skin look immediately radiant but c’mon now, patience is everything. And in all honesty, this is unarguably the single most important product you could use for glowing skin, healthy skin, smooth skin, strong skin, the works.
So what is this too-good-to-be-true product we speak so highly off? Simple. Sunscreen. Now don’t roll your eyes at us in a ‘not that old chestnut’ fashion because we don’t bang on about sunscreen just to pee you off. We do it because we care about your skin.
The simple truth is that if you don’t protect your skin from the sun’s damaging UV rays, your collagen supplies will dwindle, elastin will get destroyed, dark spots will appear and cell turnover will decrease. This all leads to dull, lackluster, sad-looking skin. And that’s just touching the surface.
Ensure you apply a quality, broad-spectrum sunscreen every morning without fail to make sure your skin doesn’t get caught up in all that damaging nonsense.
Try our SPF 30 Mineral Sunscreen which also comes packed with sodium ascorbyl phosphate (that supercool vitamin C derivative we spoke of earlier) on top of hydrating ingredients like squalane and cucumber, plus vegan marine collagen to help target fine lines and sagging skin.
4. The All-Important Skin Exfoliator
If your pores are filled to the brim with sebum, sunscreen, makeup and dead skin cells, your skin stands no chance of being smooth and radiant. Dead skin cells, in particular, create the perfect storm for dull skin.
One of the simplest ways to keep your skin clear from complexion-killing pore plugs is to use a chemical exfoliator like 6% AHA, BHA + PHA Liquid Exfoliant two or three times a week. Chemical exfoliation works by using certain ingredients –commonly fruit acids – to break down the glue that holds dead skin cells together. By doing so, they’re an incredible way of forcing these unwanted cells to sling their hook so that the fresher, brighter ones can make their way to the surface. And unlike physical exfoliation which uses pressure and movement (like scrubs and cleansing brushes), chemical exfoliation, when done correctly, is far less damaging and irritating.
Our fabulous 6% AHA, BHA + PHA Liquid Exfoliant combines a carefully crafted blend of three exfoliating acids along with organic reishi mushroom and hyaluronic acid to combat dehydration and help soothe and nourish the skin. Because, btw, dehydration will also kill your glowy skin vibes.
5. The Dewy Skin Spritz
Convenient and effective, our Ocean Minerals Super Toner is often glossed over in our line-up of skincare greats, but it’s a real goodie in the quest for a revamped complexion. Not only is it formulated with two key skin-brightening players – vitamin C and glycolic acid – but it also contains power-packed peptides, collagen-boosting MSM and over 90 revitalizing marine minerals. All this adds up to some serious love which helps to remove dull, dead skin cells, detox your pores and smooth the surface for a more balanced, even skin tone.
It's an awesome addition to your skincare routine and takes just seconds of your time to apply. So, why not?
Why not indeed.
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Fine lines and wrinkles are totally natural, but if you want to lessen their impact, you might want to take a look at some of these seemingly innocent lifestyle habits.
We’ve lost count of the number of times we’ve warned you about the perils of the sun and its effect on the number and intensity of your wrinkles. Ditto for stress, smoking and a lack of sleep. But while these things are up there as the most common culprits of aging skin – the sun being the number one offender, of course – there are plenty of other everyday lifestyle habits you probably didn’t realize were affecting the rate at which your skin aged.
Obsessed with your Stanley water bottle right now? Well, for one thing, who isn’t? But for another, you might want to rethink that whole drinking-from-a-straw situation once you’ve read the rest of this article. You have been warned…
Drinking From A Straw
One of the main reasons smoking is so bad for your skin (toxic chemicals aside) is the repetitive motion of puckering up your lips. How so? Well, this repeated action contracts a ring of muscle around the mouth area called the orbicularis oris muscle. Over time, this causes your skin to lose elasticity. And you know those lines you see when you purse your lips? Instead of going away after you relax your mouth, they start to become permanently etched in.
Same thing happens if you drink through a straw all day long.
What To Do: As much as we know you love your Stanley Quencher try not to drink out of it 24/7. At home, switch it out for a regular glass and when you’re out and about go for a water bottle that doesn’t have a straw. Oh, and if you get offered a straw when you next order a gin and tonic in a bar, say no. Those fine lines around your lips – as well as the environment – will be forever grateful.
Your Smartphone
What would we do without our digital devices? They are pretty much everything in today’s modern world. And we wouldn’t have it any other way. However, your smartphone, in particular, plays a huge part in the health of your skin. For one thing, constantly looking down while texting, gaming, emailing and browsing can accelerate the formation of creases or bands around the circumference of your neck, aka ‘tech neck.’ Similarly, squinting and frowning at your phone can add even more lines and wrinkles both on your forehead and around your eyes.
Your digital devices also emit something called high-energy visible (HEV) or blue light which studies suggest are just as damaging to your skin as UV light. Blue light not only has the potential to disrupt your skin’s natural barrier function but it can promote inflammation, encourage discoloration and accelerate collagen damage which is a one-way ticket to fine lines and wrinkles.
What To Do: Use your phone less (ha, if only it were that easy!) and always hold it upright so your head isn’t looking down all the time.
You must also try our awesome Longevity skincare range. This collection of three healthy aging products contains lingonberry stems cells which have been shown to help protect your skin from blue light damage.
The Way You Sleep
Getting lots of quality sleep is majorly important for the state of your skin, but skincare experts also agree that the way in which you sleep carries just as much weight on your skin’s aging process. Sleeping on one side, for example, causes creasing on that same side of your face which can increase your chances of developing fine lines on one side more than the other. Similarly, sleeping on your front and smushing your face into your pillow every night creates repeated pressure on your entire face – a sure-fire way to invite fine lines and wrinkles to do their worst.
What To Do: A silk pillowcase can help reduce friction, but your best bet is to change your sleep position so you sleep on your back with your head slightly raised. This avoids repetitive face-to-pillow contact and stops excess fluids from pooling under your eyes which helps stop dark circles and puffiness. Extra bonus right there.
Forgetting To Wear Sunglasses
Squinting is another one-way ticket to fine lines and wrinkles around the eyes as it causes your periocular muscles to repeatedly contract. And if you continue to do this day after day you will soon see exactly what we mean when those cute lines around your eyes turn into deep crevices that just won’t go away. Squinting also contributes to those annoying vertical lines between your eyebrows – glabellar lines or 11s – making it a real no-no if you care about aging skin.
What To Do: Wear shades whenever you go outside – even if it’s bright but not particularly sunny. This’ll immediately stop you squinting and will also protect the skin around your eyes from those damaging UV rays. And if you find yourself squinting at your computer or the TV? Well, it might be time for an eye test. Just saying.
Finally, to help keep the skin around your eyes moisturized and youthful-looking, apply an eye cream morning and night. Try our Peptide Eye Gel which helps support collagen production to minimize premature aging.
Allergies
Do you find yourself continually rubbing the skin around your eyes during the allergy season? This happens when your body’s defense system reacts to an allergen it feels threatened by. Mast cells in your eyes then release chemicals like histamine to try and get rid of these allergens which causes your eyes to become red, watery and itchy.
Allergy triggers can come from many things, including airborne pollen and pet hair, but the worst thing you can do for your skin is to vigorously scrub away at your eyes. This seriously upsets your collagen supplies, thinning your skin, wearing it down and inviting lines around your eyes to do their worst.
What To Do: If your eyes are constantly itching, the most important plan of action is to find out why, so talk to your doctor if symptoms persist. In the meantime, try eye drops and if you can't help but rub your eyes, reduce damage by using just the pads of your ring fingers rather than your whole hand. This will help reduce pressure and friction.
Swimming
We hate to knock any form of exercise but swimming in chlorinated water can be pretty harsh on your skin (and your hair for that matter!). Chlorine is great for sanitizing water and eliminating any contaminants that may otherwise cause infection and illness. But it’s not ideal for your delicate skin. In fact it’s a natural irritant that strips natural oils and moisture from your skin’s protective barrier. This is OK in small doses but if you swim every day and don’t protect your skin, this can potentially cause dryness and dehydration. And two things wrinkles love in order to thrive are dryness and dehydration.
What To Do: A pre-swim shower is a great way to reduce chlorine damage because if your skin is already wet, it will absorb less chlorinated water. Smart huh? Of course, you should also shower immediately after swimming and moisturize all over to replace lost sebum and hydration.
When it comes to your face, apply Vitamin C Facial Serum to fully cleansed skin after swimming. Vitamin C helps neutralize the damaging effects of chlorine. Follow with moisturizer and you should be good.
3 Of Our Favorite Wrinkle-Busting Skincare Products
Because a little help goes a very long way...1. Collagen Boosting Skin Supplement
Want to keep your skin looking its best for as long as possible? Then you simply have to look after your collagen. And what better way than with this daily supplement that’s literally brimming with clinically-proven, collagen-promoting ingredients like vitamin C, acai and biotin.
2. SPF 30 Mineral Sunscreen with Vitamin C
Did we mention that the sun is the biggest culprit when it comes to premature skin aging? We did? Yeah, well, we will continue to do so. We will also continue to laud the benefits of daily, broad-spectrum sunscreen for warding off the sun’s damaging UV rays. And this is an absolute must. No arguments.
One of the most effective anti-aging ingredients in skincare, retinol helps stimulate cell turnover and up your skin’s content of quality collagen. This awesome facial serum also contains hydrating hyaluronic acid (take that wrinkles) and vitamin E (same). We love that for you.
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Skin that’s unusually dry, itchy, dull or overly oily is trying to tell you something. And you need to listen.
Everyone’s skin can get a little sensitive now and again. Life just happens. Maybe you’ve overdone it with the retinol, perhaps your hormones are all over the place, or hold on, what about all those late nights you’ve been pulling recently? There are many factors, like these, that can upset your skin. And it’s your barrier function that first shows the signs of stress, furnishing you with all manner of skin peskies like dryness, itchiness, redness, inflammation, breakouts and dehydration.
Sounds familiar? Then read on for the best ways to improve your skin’s barrier function.
But First, What Is The Skin Barrier?
Your skin’s barrier is technically referred to as the stratum corneum. If you don’t care about fancy names, however, that’s fair enough, but know the following: your skin consists of three main layers. The deepest layer is the hypodermis which supplies blood and keeps your skin attached to your bones and muscle. On top of that you have the dermis which is where all the good stuff like hair follicles, sweat glands and blood vessels hang out. Then, right at the top is the epidermis which protects all the rest. The epidermis is pretty complex and consists of many intricate layers – the top of which is the stratum corneum, aka the skin’s barrier.
Your skin’s barrier is like a brick wall built from around 20 layers of cells. It provides your body with its first line of defense against things like pollution, allergens and other irritating environmental stressors. Being the outermost layer it’s vital for keeping these bad guys out, but it also works super hard to keep moisture in, helping to maintain soft, supple and healthy skin.
Truth is, your skin’s barrier is vital for the health of your entire skin. And it really gets put through the mill.
What Causes Damage To Your Skin’s Barrier?
So. Many. Things. Most of which you can probably guess, but here’s a list of the ten most common triggers of a compromised barrier function…
- Stress
- Over-exfoliation
- Natural aging
- A lack of sleep
- Harsh, chemical-laden skincare products
- Smoking
- Poor moisturizing
- UV radiation
- Environmental pollution
- Extreme temperatures
It’s also worth noting that everyone’s skin composition is different, so certain triggers that might break down your skin’s barrier might be totally fine for the next person. Pale skin, for example, naturally has a thinner and weaker barrier than darker skin types which means it’s more prone to irritation from common aggressors.
Your skin barrier also weakens as you age, so while your skin might have been totally unbreakable in your 20s, by the time you hit your 40s certain triggers can, out of the blue, start to have negative effects.
What Are The Signs That Your Skin Barrier Needs Help?
When your skin barrier is in good shape, your skin will look and feel just as awesome – glowing, healthy, moisturized and smooth. If it gets compromised, however, nothing good will come of it. We’re talking dryness, dehydration, itching, inflammation, redness, breakouts and more. Active products in your skincare regime might also produce stinging or burning effects that were never there before.
How To Repair The Skin Barrier
Once you’ve determined that your skin barrier is not feeling up to snuff, you need to think about the best ways to help strengthen and fortify it. And there are two important areas to take into account.
1. Your Skincare Routine
The most common and easiest way to damage and disrupt your skin’s barrier is through a complicated or over-zealous skincare routine. Harsh cleansing or exfoliating too hard and too often are massive no-nos as these can strip your skin’s barrier of the natural moisturizing factors that help to keep it healthy and in optimum working order. The same goes for applying too many active ingredients like retinol, glycolic acid and vitamin C on the reg. Basically, you just need to live by the classic rule that less is always more.
Stick to once or twice weekly exfoliation and only ever apply one facial serum at a time – no disrespect, but cocktailing active ingredients is best left to the professionals. Of course, you can still enjoy the benefits of different active ingredients but if your skin can’t hack it, don’t push it. Instead, try applying your serums on alternative days or just a couple of times a week. We love to use Retinol Facial Serum twice a week, and our Rejuvenating Longevity Serum every other evening. This, combined with Vitamin C Facial Serum in the mornings, makes for a pretty dynamite but caring combination.
Other important parts of your skincare regime to take into account? Well, do you like to shower, bathe and/or cleanse your face with super hot water? Bad idea. This strips your skin of essential moisture and lipids, totally compromising your delicate barrier function. Lukewarm water all the way, baby.
And to finish... two words: sunscreen and moisturizer. These are two of the most important products to have in your barrier-protecting skincare routine so never scrimp on either. Moisturize your skin every time you cleanse, using products that contain ingredients like ceramides, hyaluronic acid, squalane and niacinamide. These proactively help to strengthen and hydrate your barrier function. Then, always apply plenty of SPF 30 Mineral Sunscreen every morning without fail. But c’mon, you MUST know that by now…
2. Your Lifestyle Habits
Getting your skincare routine ship-shape is one thing, but you must also think about your entire lifestyle if you truly want to make a difference to the health of your skin’s all-important barrier.
Do you smoke? Maybe think about trying to stop that. Studies show that nicotine and other harmful chemicals found in cigarettes get absorbed into your skin, damaging blood vessels and changing the structure and function of certain cells which impairs healing and makes your skin age at lightning speeds. And vaping? Same thing.
Stress and a lack of sleep (which often go hand in hand) are other important ways in which your skin’s barrier can become negatively affected. Both throw your hormones out of whack and suck away important lipids and proteins in the skin, increasing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and acclerating dehydration. Sure, it may be easier said than done to stress less and sleep more, but try to take time out for yourself each day by going for a walk or reading a book. And get thee to bed. Eight hours is the sweet spot but you should aim for at least seven.
Finally, you are what you eat so try to cut down on refined carbs, processed foods and sugar, and increase your intake of antioxidant-rich fruit and veggies, nuts, whole foods and oily fish. Oily fish, in particular, are incredible for the skin barrier because they’re high in omega-3 fatty acids which help decrease inflammation while improving your skin’s elasticity and moisturization.
Do all this and you barrier will start to look and feel better in no time, promise.
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