How To Deal With The 3 Most Common Issues For Teenage Skin

Retinol is one of the best ingredients for your skin, battling the signs of visible aging like no other skincare ingredient can even dream of doing. But it needs to be used consistently for the best results. So, if you’re of the opinion that retinol should be packed away in the summer, we’re here to change that.

When it comes to skincare powerhouses, retinol is top of the class. Ask any derm, skincare expert, A-lister or influencer and they will all agree it’s the gold standard in anti-aging ingredients. 

Derived from vitamin A and a gentle cousin to retinoic acid (otherwise known as tretinoin), retinol has this clever way of getting under your skin to communicate with important proteins like collagen and elastin. This stimulates their production and kick-starts them to do their jobs more efficiently and more effectively, speeding up cell turnover and helping to improve your skin’s tone and texture. Retinol also helps fade sun spots and boosts the production of blood vessels in the skin to enhance radiance. Gotta love that.

But retinol isn’t just an anti-aging whizz kid. Studies prove that retinol also has anti-inflammatory powers which makes it a very effective anti-acne treatment, keeping pores clean, clear, bacteria-free and therefore stopping your skin from breaking out like a hormonal teenager’s.

So, why is retinol often perceived as something to be wary of in the summer months? Well, it’s a little bit misunderstood. Most people think retinol is unsafe during the daytime because it makes your skin extremely sensitive to the sun. Which is kind of true… but not really.

The hard truth is that retinol itself is not sun sensitizing. We’ll just let that sink in for a minute...

NOT sun sensitizing? So, why the myth? Well, it does thin the very top layer of your skin (the stratum corneum) which is why it’s a bit of a bummer when it comes to reducing your skin’s ability to protect itself from UV radiation. But, to be honest this is why it’s so effective at controlling acne and reducing the signs of aging.

The main reason retinol is usually formulated into night treatments is not because of what it does to your skin in the sun, but the fact that it can become deactivated by sunlight. When a skincare ingredient becomes deactivated it doesn’t particularly harm your skin, per se, it simply becomes less effective. And retinol is such a fabulously effective ingredient, this is exactly the opposite of what you want.

So, how can you make the most of your retinol treatment this summer? Here are five things to bear in mind…

1. Summer Is Actually A Great Time To Start Applying Retinol

Many people experience increased dryness and sensitivities in the winter, which makes summer a much better season to introduce retinol into your routine. Summer equals more humidity and this extra moisture in the air helps keep your skin healthier, more hydrated and better equipped to start getting used to such a powerhouse of a skincare ingredient. Take that non-believers.

2. However, Retinol Can Cause Irritation – Any Time Of The Year

It’s true, retinol can irritate your skin come rain or shine, so you should always do a patch test before introducing it into your routine. Then, once you’ve established your skin can tolerate it, go low and slow.

Start with a moisturizer as these are usually less potent than treatment serums. Our Retinol Moisturizer is great for retinol newbies as it cleverly blends retinol with hyaluronic acid (HA) to hydrate your skin and help fend off flaky or peeling skin, which often occurs with regular use of retinol. If your skin is super sensitive you can even get away with alternating Retinol Moisturizer with our equally-as-awesome Vitamin C Brightening Moisturizer. It'll still have a great impact on the look and feel of your skin.

3. Retinol Serum Is Perfect For Balmy Summer Evenings

Can’t bear heavy night creams when the mercury is rising and your bedroom feels hotter than the surface of the sun? Yeah, we hear you girl. And this is when our Retinol Facial Serum comes to the rescue.

Blended with HA and vitamin E for hydration and extra healing qualities, we call this our go-to-summertime serum because it’s super lightweight and absorbs into your skin in seconds so you can get some valuable beauty sleep without feeling like your face is totally suffocating. Even though it’s perfectly safe to use in the morning, UV light can destabilize retinol and diminish its effectiveness, so you’re always better off using it a night. Apply it two or three times a week (after patch testing first, of course) to freshly cleansed skin, then follow with moisturizer.

4. You MUST Go Heavy On The Sunscreen

The powerful rays of the sun, coupled with retinol’s potent, thin-skinning actions are asking for trouble if you don’t wear a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of at least 30. We’re talking dryness, redness, itching, burning and worse. So, make sure you protect your skin carefully and regularly.

Around half a teaspoon of sunscreen is recommended for your face and you should reapply the same amount every two hours if you’re spending all day in the sun. Also, try to spend as much time with your face in the shade and wear a large-brimmed hat and good quality sunnies that block both UVA and UVB radiation for an added safety net.

5. Stop Using Retinol If Your Face Gets Sunburned 

As previously mentioned, retinol thins the outermost layer of your skin which increases your chances of sunburn. However, as long as you take care to protect your skin, this should rarely, if ever happen. If you do get caught short, stop applying your retinol products immediately – and in fact any active ingredients including exfoliating acids. Instead, use super gentle cleansing products and soothing moisturizers only for at least a week or until your skin heals.

You see, due diligence and a bit of common sense is all it takes to crush an awesome retinol routine.

All. Year. Round.

What can you do to counteract dry skin and the flakiness, itching and irritation that often comes as part of the package? Well, we believe what you put on your skin can make a real, difference…

If you have dry skin you’ll know that finding an awesome moisturizer is like discovering your perfect hairdresser. A veritable ‘eureka moment.' But not an easy one to accomplish, that’s for sure. So, why is this the case? Well, it’s confusing business. Firstly, skincare ingredients come and go thanks to technology, trends and the opinions of influencers and A-listers. Remember when snail slime was the future of ageless skin? Yeah, it didn’t last. Also, dry skin can be sensitive to certain ingredients, taking umbrage to the likes of synthetic fragrances, sulfates, parabens and the like, making it hard to find products that don't make your skin sting or become irritated.

This is why we believe it’s super important to know which ingredients to look out for when moisturizing dry skin. Not the fleeting ones that don’t stand the test of time (here's looking at you again, snail slime), but the tried, tested and trusted ingredients that derms have been recommending for decades. Because a) they work and b) well, they work.

But first things first, let’s talk about dry skin…

What Is Dry Skin?

Dry skin, dehydrated skin: same difference, right? Wrong. Dehydrated skin is a temporary condition that any skin type (yes, even oily) can experience and occurs when skin is lacking in water. Dry skin, however, is a whole other ball game. Dry skin is a true skin type like oily, combination and the elusive ‘normal’ skin and it means your skin is lacking in natural oils, NOT water. This dryness is likely to affect your entire body and it’s something you’re born with and will live with your whole life. Sure, it may improve or worsen depending on things like the season, your age or the time of the month, and yes, you can relieve dryness with great skincare products, but all in all, dry skin is for life.

How To Moisturize Dry Skin

Let’s get one thing straight, moisturizing ingredients and hydrating ingredients are not one and the same. Hydrating ingredients add water (hydration) to your skin and include the likes of hyaluronic acid, glycerin and aloe vera, whereas moisturizing ingredients are those that lock water into the skin by providing a protective layer on the surface to help prevent transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Moisturizing ingredients are the most important for dry skin types, but often dryness and dehydration come hand in hand, so a great skincare kit should always include a combination of both.

Today, however, we’re concentrating on the best moisturizing ingredients. And in no particular order, here are our top five…

1. Ceramides

Ceramides are fatty acids that make up around 50 percent of your skin’s composition and are found in the skin’s protective barrier, the stratum corneum. Ceramides are super important to the health of your skin because they act like glue to hold your skin cells together, keeping moisture in and irritants out. Kind of like your body’s own natural moisturizer. Of course, like many good things in life, you lose ceramides as you age. Your levels also take a hit from things like cold, dry air; a poor diet and harsh skincare products that strip your skin of oils.

This is why ceramides are up there as some of, if not the most important ingredients for strengthening your skin’s barrier function and simultaneously moisturizing dry skin.

2. Palmitates

Just because ingredients like ethyhexyl, cetyl and ispopropyl palmitate are tricky to pronounce (and even harder to spell!), this doesn’t make them the bad guys. Far from it. In fact, these palmitates are extremely useful for treating and conditioning dry skin. They come under the umbrella of emollients which are types of ingredients (whether natural or synthetic) that soften and moisturize dry skin by filling in and repairing cracks on the surface to help prevent water loss and keep your skin healthy and free from irritation. Not to be sniffed at, people.

3. Plant Oils

We’re major fans of botanical oils like coconut, jojoba and sunflower for their natural ability to work wonders on all skin types. Like palmitates, they’re super effective emollients, but some oils also have occlusive properties which is an absolute must for dry skin.

Occlusives work by leaving a thin coating on the top layer of your skin which traps in water and other hydrating ingredients, so your skin can make the most of all that moisture and nourishment all day long. Rich oils like coconut and olive can feel a little heavy if you have oily or acne-prone skin. However, they’re awesome for dry or irritated skin whose barrier function needs a little helping hand.

Plant oils are also rich in nutrients and antioxidants, so they’re great for protecting your skin from oxidative stress while strengthening and repairing your skin. Big win.

4. Shea Butter

As butters go, shea is top of the class.

Shea butter is a fat that’s extracted from the nut of the African shea (or karite) tree. Not only is it rich in fatty acids like stearic, oleic and lineoleic which gives it outstanding emollient powers, but shea butter is also an anti-inflammatory making it a beauty for healing a compromised barrier function.

Unlike cocoa butter which can be too rich for some skin types – especially on the face – shea butter is light, easily absorbed and non-comedogenic which means it’s less likely to clog your pores and cause breakouts. But don’t think this makes it any less effective when it comes to moisturizing dry skin. Shea butter is a real winner and is also packed with vitamins and anti-inflammatory compounds to further repair damaged skin. It's so good, it may even help soothe and treat eczema. 

5. Vitamin E

Often seen on skincare labels as tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate or alpha-tocopheryl acetate, vitamin E is one of our favorite ingredients and up there with the likes of vitamin C and retinol as a must for any successful regime. Why is it so great for dry skin? Well, it’s an anti-inflammatory and an antioxidant so helps repair, soothe, protect and heal the skin’s delicate barrier function. But what’s most impressive is that it has a smart way of combining both humectant and emollient qualities all into one. This means it can draw water into your skin like a sponge, AND hold it there. Some experts believe it has the ability to retain moisture for up to 16 whole hours. Wowza.

An oldie, but a real goodie.

A brand new year means it’s out with the old and in with the new. Skin that is. 

‘New’ skin might sound like a fantasy, but there’s actually some truth in the idea of new and old skin… and yes, you can absolutely enhance your newest skin cells while nudging the old ones to politely get out of town.

Here’s the thing about your skin – it’s regularly exposed to the slings and arrows of the environment which means it needs to constantly regenerate to ensure it functions to the best of its ability. And its functions are vital. Among other things on its huge resumé are things like regulating your body’s internal temperature, protecting your internal organs, preventing serious injury and shielding you from harmful things like extreme temperature, toxins and nasty germs. No biggie, right? Ha, au contraire. Without your skin, you would literally cease to exist. End of.

So, What Does Skin Regeneration Mean?

Well, it’s pretty simple. Skin cells are created… and then they die, becoming nothing but dust on your baseboards. You actually lose between 30,000 and 40,000 skin cells every minute (*immediately vacuums entire house from top to bottom). Yes, this means skin cell regeneration is a massive operation.

The science is as follows. Your skin is comprised of three main layers. Starting at the base you’ve got the hypodermis (AKA the subcutaneous layer) which consists mainly of fatty tissue and attaches your skin to the muscles and tissues below to provide essential insulation and cushioning. Then, you have the dermis which is where all the action takes place. Collagen and elastin fibres are produced in the dermis, alongside your sebaceous glands, blood vessels, hair follicles, nerve ending and sweat glands.

Finally, on the surface is the protective but paper-thin epidermis. This is the bit you see and it gives your skin its color while keeping water in and toxins out.

It’s here at the epidermis that your visible skin cells are created and get slowly pushed to the surface as they get harder, flatter and drier. Once they arrive at the uppermost layer – the stratum corneum if you want to get fancy – these cells die, shed and are immediately replaced by new skin cells going through the exact same process right behind them. This cycle takes between around four or five weeks in an average, middle-aged adult.

What Happens To The Life Cycle Of Your Skin As You Age?

One guess: it slows down. Big surprise, right? While the average life cycle of a skin cell is around 28 days during your 30s, once you get past 40 and into your 50s it slows down to around 50-60 days. It can even last as long as 90 days after the age of 60 which is why your skin becomes less bright, fresh, soft and supple as you age. For the most part, your genes determine the life cycle of your own personal skin cells, but things like sun damage, pollution, a poor diet, stress and a cruddy skincare routine will also have a big impact on the rate at which your skin turns over.

And this is where you come in…

3 Of The Best Ways To Embrace Your Newest Skin

Leaving your skin’s natural turnover process to its own devices can spell disaster for the look and feel of your complexion. For one thing, the accumulation of dead skin cells can block your pores and cause breakouts galore. And then there’s the dryness, dehydration and flakiness that come hand in hand with sluggish skin. Oh, and did we mention that allowing dead skin cells to hang around longer than they’re welcome may stop your serum and moisturizer from penetrating your skin, meaning they won’t be able to work to the best of their abilities. Un. Cool.

Here, we round up three tried and trusted ways to boost the turnover of your skin and therefore embrace your best, glowiest (made-up word, right there?), newest skin ever. Happy 2022, everyone!

1. Exfoliate Regularly

Exfoliating your skin with a facial scrub, mitt or cleansing brush is a great way to wake up tired, sluggish skin and boost cell turnover. How so? Because it physically sloughs away any dead skin cells that are holding on to the surface for dear life. It’s as simple as that. Of course, physical exfoliation doesn’t come without its problems. Mainly that some people do it a) too often and b) too aggressively. The key is to go gently; avoid products that contain sharp particles like ground fruit pits or crushed nutshells, and only ever exfoliate once, maybe twice a week.

Work on damp skin and use light strokes and circular motions as you exfoliate for 30 seconds or so. Honestly, that’s really all you should need to keep your cells turning over efficiently.

2. Apply Serums That Naturally Boost Cell Turnover

Face scrubs and physical exfoliators aren’t the only way to reveal new, fresh skin: exfoliating acids also get the job done nicely – and they require no effort on your behalf as an added bonus.

Chemicals exfoliators include ingredients like glycolic, lactic, citric and salicylic acid. Often found in treatment serums, they work by breaking down the bonds that glue dead skin cells together, allowing them to naturally shed without you having to scrub them away. We’re huge fans of exfoliating acids as they offer all the benefits of physical exfoliation, but often with less damage to the surface of your skin – as long as you don’t go overboard, of course.

To ensure you don’t smother your skin with too many acids at once, try one of our carefully curated exfoliating products such as the glycolic acid-infused Ocean Minerals Super Toner or Vitamin C Super Serum+.

3. Don’t Forget Your Retinol

Retinol is another powerhouse skincare ingredient that has an exfoliating effect on the surface of your skin. While it doesn’t slough away skin cells or exfoliate in the same way as scrubs or hydroxy acids (AHAs and BHAs), retinol works by ‘communicating’ with your skin cells, boosting collagen production and encouraging your skin to turn over at a more efficient rate.

Again, if you’re looking to boost your skin’s ‘newness,’ retinol is an awesome choice, but don’t go crazy with it. Retinol is a potent ingredient and should only be used if you’ve patch tested it first, and experienced no unwanted, lasting irritations. And if you’re super sensitive, don’t go scrubbing your face, then applying glycolic acid and retinol all at once. This will do nothing but over-stimulate your skin and break down your important protective barrier which can cause real problems like inflammation, redness, itching, even flare-ups in pre-existing conditions such as acne, eczema, psoriasis and rosacea. Go slowly with retinol, applying it just once or twice a week to start with, then building to nightly as your skin acclimates.

The moral of the story is that yes, you want to embrace and enhance your new skin. But be kind as you do so. Or you might, actually you will, regret it.

A brand new year means it’s out with the old and in with the new. Skin that is. 

‘New’ skin might sound like a fantasy, but there’s actually some truth in the idea of new and old skin… and yes, you can absolutely enhance your newest skin cells while nudging the old ones to politely get out of town.

Here’s the thing about your skin – it’s regularly exposed to the slings and arrows of the environment which means it needs to constantly regenerate to ensure it functions to the best of its ability. And its functions are vital. Among other things on its huge resumé are things like regulating your body’s internal temperature, protecting your internal organs, preventing serious injury and shielding you from harmful things like extreme temperature, toxins and nasty germs. No biggie, right? Ha, au contraire. Without your skin, you would literally cease to exist. End of.

So, What Does Skin Regeneration Mean?

Well, it’s pretty simple. Skin cells are created… and then they die, becoming nothing but dust on your baseboards. You actually lose between 30,000 and 40,000 skin cells every minute (*immediately vacuums entire house from top to bottom). Yes, this means skin cell regeneration is a massive operation.

The science is as follows. Your skin is comprised of three main layers. Starting at the base you’ve got the hypodermis (AKA the subcutaneous layer) which consists mainly of fatty tissue and attaches your skin to the muscles and tissues below to provide essential insulation and cushioning. Then, you have the dermis which is where all the action takes place. Collagen and elastin fibres are produced in the dermis, alongside your sebaceous glands, blood vessels, hair follicles, nerve ending and sweat glands.

Finally, on the surface is the protective but paper-thin epidermis. This is the bit you see and it gives your skin its color while keeping water in and toxins out.

It’s here at the epidermis that your visible skin cells are created and get slowly pushed to the surface as they get harder, flatter and drier. Once they arrive at the uppermost layer – the stratum corneum if you want to get fancy – these cells die, shed and are immediately replaced by new skin cells going through the exact same process right behind them. This cycle takes between around four or five weeks in an average, middle-aged adult.

What Happens To The Life Cycle Of Your Skin As You Age?

One guess: it slows down. Big surprise, right? While the average life cycle of a skin cell is around 28 days during your 30s, once you get past 40 and into your 50s it slows down to around 50-60 days. It can even last as long as 90 days after the age of 60 which is why your skin becomes less bright, fresh, soft and supple as you age. For the most part, your genes determine the life cycle of your own personal skin cells, but things like sun damage, pollution, a poor diet, stress and a cruddy skincare routine will also have a big impact on the rate at which your skin turns over.

And this is where you come in…

3 Of The Best Ways To Embrace Your Newest Skin

Leaving your skin’s natural turnover process to its own devices can spell disaster for the look and feel of your complexion. For one thing, the accumulation of dead skin cells can block your pores and cause breakouts galore. And then there’s the dryness, dehydration and flakiness that come hand in hand with sluggish skin. Oh, and did we mention that allowing dead skin cells to hang around longer than they’re welcome may stop your serum and moisturizer from penetrating your skin, meaning they won’t be able to work to the best of their abilities. Un. Cool.

Here, we round up three tried and trusted ways to boost the turnover of your skin and therefore embrace your best, glowiest (made-up word, right there?), newest skin ever. Happy 2022, everyone!

1. Exfoliate Regularly

Exfoliating your skin with a facial scrub, mitt or cleansing brush is a great way to wake up tired, sluggish skin and boost cell turnover. How so? Because it physically sloughs away any dead skin cells that are holding on to the surface for dear life. It’s as simple as that. Of course, physical exfoliation doesn’t come without its problems. Mainly that some people do it a) too often and b) too aggressively. The key is to go gently; avoid products that contain sharp particles like ground fruit pits or crushed nutshells, and only ever exfoliate once, maybe twice a week.

Work on damp skin and use light strokes and circular motions as you exfoliate for 30 seconds or so. Honestly, that’s really all you should need to keep your cells turning over efficiently.

2. Apply Serums That Naturally Boost Cell Turnover

Face scrubs and physical exfoliators aren’t the only way to reveal new, fresh skin: exfoliating acids also get the job done nicely – and they require no effort on your behalf as an added bonus.

Chemicals exfoliators include ingredients like glycolic, lactic, citric and salicylic acid. Often found in treatment serums, they work by breaking down the bonds that glue dead skin cells together, allowing them to naturally shed without you having to scrub them away. We’re huge fans of exfoliating acids as they offer all the benefits of physical exfoliation, but often with less damage to the surface of your skin – as long as you don’t go overboard, of course.

To ensure you don’t smother your skin with too many acids at once, try one of our carefully curated exfoliating products such as the glycolic acid-infused Ocean Minerals Super Toner or Vitamin C Super Serum+.

3. Don’t Forget Your Retinol

Retinol is another powerhouse skincare ingredient that has an exfoliating effect on the surface of your skin. While it doesn’t slough away skin cells or exfoliate in the same way as scrubs or hydroxy acids (AHAs and BHAs), retinol works by ‘communicating’ with your skin cells, boosting collagen production and encouraging your skin to turn over at a more efficient rate.

Again, if you’re looking to boost your skin’s ‘newness,’ retinol is an awesome choice, but don’t go crazy with it. Retinol is a potent ingredient and should only be used if you’ve patch tested it first, and experienced no unwanted, lasting irritations. And if you’re super sensitive, don’t go scrubbing your face, then applying glycolic acid and retinol all at once. This will do nothing but over-stimulate your skin and break down your important protective barrier which can cause real problems like inflammation, redness, itching, even flare-ups in pre-existing conditions such as acne, eczema, psoriasis and rosacea. Go slowly with retinol, applying it just once or twice a week to start with, then building to nightly as your skin acclimates.

The moral of the story is that yes, you want to embrace and enhance your new skin. But be kind as you do so. Or you might, actually you will, regret it.