Chemical Vs Physical Exfoliation: Which Is Best?
When something as important as exfoliation comes in two completely different guises, how do you know which is best? Read on for a complete breakdown of the highs and lows of both chemical and physical exfoliation…
Exfoliation is one of the simplest, most effective skincare habits for transforming dull, sad skin into the brightest, healthiest-looking skin of your life. It works hard to smooth out annoyingly bumpy skin texture, reduce the frequency of pesky breakouts, decrease excess oil, and even minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
But exfoliation is often plagued by contradictions and it can be hard to navigate the facts. Should you or should you not exfoliate every day? Are scrubs better than exfoliating masks? Or is the opposite correct?
Of course, the truth usually depends on your skin type and its current condition (because, yes these are two very separate things), but one thing’s for sure, exfoliation takes on two very different forms. And it’s important you know what’s what so you can make the right decision about what’s right for you and your skin.
Before we go any further, however, let’s have a quick refresh on the basics. As you know, skin renews itself every day, shedding millions of cells as it produces fresher ones deeper below the surface. This process is called desquamation and it’s a pretty efficient way of keeping your skin fresh, healthy, moisturized and well protected from the slings and arrows of daily life. Like most good things in life, though, this process slows down as you age, allowing dead skin cells to hang around at the surface and encouraging dryness, dehydration, blocked pores and the formation of lines, wrinkles and other visible signs of aging.
The good news is that exfoliation – both physical and chemical – is here to save the day, sloughing off dead skin cells (as well as other nasties like grime, pollution, makeup and excess oil), boosting circulation, accelerating cell turnover and helping to keep your skin’s barrier function ticking along nicely. Technically, both physical and chemical exfoliation do the same thing. But they work in completely different ways.
So first up, let’s take a look at the most ‘classic’ and well-known form of exfoliation: the physical kind.
What Is Physical Exfoliation?
Physical exfoliation is the one you’ll be most used to. Remember those scrubs you made as an enthusiastic teenager that contained all manner of kitchen ingredients like mashed banana, oatmeal and yogurt? Well, thanks to the oatmeal, that’s a physical exfoliant right there.
Physical exfoliants are abrasives and basically include anything that requires some kind of manual force or motion in order to remove dead cells from the surface of your skin. Face scrubs, which contain grainy elements like sand, sugar, salt and fruit seeds, are the most obvious choice, but mitts, loofahs and cleansing brushes also fit into the same camp.
Then there are the professional treatments like microdermabrasion and dermaplaning. If you’re not acquainted with these, microdermabrasion works by combining microcrystals with a vacuum suction to exfoliate dead skin cells and stimulate collagen production. Dermaplaning, meanwhile, employs a tiny razor to gently shave the skin’s surface. This helps remove peach fuzz, but is also helps get rid of the upper-most layer of dead skin cells as an extra bonus.
Is Physical Exfoliation For You?
When used carefully, gently and not too often (two or three times a week is usually the sweet spot), physical exfoliation can be a great addition to any skincare routine.
We find they’re particularly great for:
* Improving poor skin texture
* Oily skin
* Boosting circulation
* A truly deep clean
* Instantly brighter skin
In? Then Try: Our brand new Vitamin C Gentle Face Scrub which we’re super excited about. Abrasive without being too hard on your complexion, this delicious scrub harnesses our favorite type of vitamin C, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, alongside antioxidant-rich yuzu lemon (which is also naturally chock-full of vitamin C) to work on dull, lifeless-looking skin fast.
All this combines with the smoothness of Bora Bora white sand which is no ordinary sand. Ultra-fine, it's extremely gentle on the skin to help promote cell turnover and remove rough, dead skin cells without the irritation often experienced with inferior face scrubs. Add in some soothing, hydrating aloe and all this makes for the ideal twice weekly scrub in a nutshell. Although, fyi, no nutshells were used in the making of this scrub. Nutshells do not have a smooth, uniform shape which makes them notorious for creating micro-tears on the surface of your skin. And we do not want that for you.
What Is Chemical Exfoliation?
Instead of using physical movement to boost cellular turnover, chemical exfoliants use topical ingredients (usually acids) to dissolve and break down the bonds between dead skin cells so they slough away more efficiently. Again, there are skincare products you can use at home, but also professional treatments like chemical peels can offer very powerful results.
Most at-home chemical exfoliants use AHAs, BHAs or PHAs as a means to get the job done.
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are water-soluble chemical compounds that are usually extracted from fruit or milk sugars. Glycolic acid is probably the most well-known AHA because it has a very low molecular weight which makes it very good at penetrating the skin. Sometimes, too good if your skin errs towards the sensitive side. And this is where lactic acid comes into its own. Lactic acid has a larger molecular size than its glycolic cousin which makes it way gentler and more readily tolerated by sensitive skin.
Unlike their water-soluble AHA cousins, beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) are oil-soluble substances which means they’re able to cut through the lipid layers between your skin cells to penetrate into your pores and exfoliate your skin on a much deeper level. As well as being darn good at exfoliating your skin, BHAs also target and reduce excess sebum to clear and brighten the skin – that’s a big deal for anyone struggling with oily, inflamed or acne-prone skin, btw. Examples of BHAs? Frankly there’s only one worth mentioning, salicylic acid which has been studied for decades and proven to not only target pores and increase cell turnover, but to offer incredible antibacterial and anti-inflammatory benefits.
Last, but not least, you have poly hydroxy acids (PHAs). Much newer to the exfoliation scene, PHAs are a new generation of water-soluble AHAs with all the benefits… but with less of the side-effects. The reason for their gentle nature is that they’re formulated with multiple strands, so they have a larger molecular size and are therefore unable to penetrate the deeper layers of your skin. Instead, they work exclusively on the skin’s surface to boost cell renewal without irritating your complexion. They’re basically your go-to if you have super-sensitive skin but are concerned about the visible signs of aging. Main players include gluconolactone (sometimes referred to as gluconic acid) and lactobionic acid which is an oxidized form of lactose and extracted from cow’s milk.
Is Chemical Exfoliation For You?
Just like their abrasive co-workers, chemical exfoliants work for all skin types as long as you patch test them first and use them as often (or as little!) as your skin allows.
They’re specifically good for…
* Sensitive skin
* Targeting dark spots
* Acne-prone skin
* Fine lines and wrinkles
* Enlarged pores
In? Then Try: 6% AHA, BHA + PCA Liquid Exfoliant which, as the name suggests, combines all three chemical exfoliants (and vitamin C, of course!) to gently but powerfully boost cell regeneration and promote brighter, younger-looking skin. Simply apply it to cleansed skin before your serum and moisturizer for a daily glow-getting fix and watch your skin continue to get better and better.
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![The 10 Best Facial Serums For All Types Of Mature Skin]()
When it comes to looking after mature skin, moisturizer is great. Heck, it’s vital. However, if you really want to amp up your skincare routine, choosing the right facial serum is everything.
Serums can be tricky to get your head around. Some believe they’re nothing more than an ‘extra’ step in your routine – one that’s, frankly, not that important – while others happily include them in their routine, but then think they can do without moisturizer.
Wrong. And wrong.
Facial serums are, in fact, a vital addition to your skincare routine if you want to target specific issues and concerns that go above and beyond what ‘regular’ basics like cleanser and moisturizer can offer. You see, unlike moisturizers they have a very small molecular structure which allows them to penetrate your skin to channel active ingredients like retinol, vitamin C and peptides deeper below the surface – which is often where they’re needed the most.
Moisturizers, as great as they are, don’t do that. They are, however, essential for sealing in moisture which serums can’t do. And that’s why they make the perfect skincare team.
Navigating the serum world doesn’t come without its challenges, though. With literally thousands to choose from, how exactly do you make the right decision for your skin? What’s best for dealing with dark spots? Which ingredients should you look out for if you have particularly sensitive skin? And is there something out there that can tackle aging AND oily skin?
Below, we talk you through our top ten facial serums so you can make an informed decision on what’s right for you…
The Sensitive Skin Wrinkle Reducer: Rejuvenating Longevity Serum
As you probably know, retinol is ‘it’ for targeting wrinkles, dull skin and basically making your skin look ten times better. And nobody puts retinol in the corner, us included. But as incredibly effective as retinol is, it also has its downsides. Namely being the frequent cause of dryness, irritation and redness to sensitive skin types. Well this is where bakuchiol shines. Frequently touted as ‘nature’s answer to retinol,’ bakuchiol offers all the benefits of this anti-aging wonder ingredient, but with fewer (if any!) side effect. Our Rejuvenating Longevity Serum harnesses all this, alongside revitalizing snow algae and lingonberry stem cells to offer sensitive skin the healthy aging serum it deserves.
The Early Aging Treatment: Smoothing Collagen Serum
Collagen is one of the most important components in your skin, keeping it strong, supple and firm. But life’s a b*tch and once you hit your mid-20s your collagen levels start to dwindle by about 1 percent every year. That might not sound like a lot but you’ll sure notice it in ten years when your skin, well, just isn’t what it used to be. If this sounds familiar and you’re already seeing fine lines around your eyes and a little sagging around the jawline, our Smoothing Collagen Serum could be just what you need. It combines collagen peptides (vegan, of course), ceramides and a powerful blend of antioxidant-rich superfruits to kick-start collagen synthesis and help prevent your skin aging up before its time.
The Skin Brightening Superhero: Vitamin C Facial Serum
The OG of TruSkin and still a fan favorite, our Vitamin C Facial Serum is hard to beat if you’re looking for an insanely good facial serum to not only help glow up your skin but to protect it from the onslaught of environmental aggressors (sun, yes, we’re talking about you).
Like retinol, pure vitamin C can be a tad irritating if you’re not careful, but we cut out all of those risks by using a C-derivate called sodium ascorbyl phosphate (SAP). SAP is a salt form of vitamin C which makes it kinder to the skin and one of the most stable versions available in skincare. It’s a shoo-in for dull, aging skin.
The All-Round Nice Guy: Multi-Vitamin Facial Serum
While some people love to really hone in on the things they don’t love about their skin, others prefer a more rounded approach to skincare. And that’s why we created our Multi-Vitamin Facial Serum. Like an oral muti-vit supplement, but one you apply topically, this lightweight milky facial serum comes brimming with no less than 11 plant-derived vitamins, minerals and electrolytes to offer an all-in-one approach to youthful, healthier-looking skin. It helps improve tone, texture, firmness and hydration without having to rely on 10 other products to do the exact same job. Smart stuff.
The Mature-But-Still-Oily Skin Savior: Tea Tree Super Serum+
We don’t know about you but we specifically remember being told that our greasy, teenage skin a) would not be so oily as we got older and b) would age way better than our friends with drier skin. Lies, all lies. OK, so the oil might have a subsided a little and the wrinkles aren’t so bad, but still miracles definitely did not happen.
Oily, mature skin is not easy to manage. In fact, the words ‘balancing' and 'act’ come to mind. Which is why you should make tea tree oil your BFF. Due to its potent anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties, tea tree oil is fantastic for treating super-oily skin, enlarged pores and breakouts. Our Tea Tree Super Serum+ blends it with hyaluronic acid to deal with dehydration, plus niacinamide and organic aloe. Gorgeous.
The Dehydration Rescue Serum: Hyaluronic Acid Facial Serum
Unless you’ve been hiding under a very large rock for the past ten years, hyaluronic acid will be no stranger to you. To refresh, hyaluronic acid, sometimes known as hyaluronan, is a sugar molecule that’s found by the bucketload in your skin where it helps keep it cushioned, lubricated and hydrated by drawing in water like a sponge. Dehydration can be a major issue as you get older because your natural levels of HA disappear and your barrier function becomes weaker.
If dehydration is something you’re concerned with, you can’t go wrong with Hyaluronic Acid Facial Serum. As the name suggests, it comes packed with oceans of hyaluronic acid alongside vitamins C and E.
The Dark Spot Destroyer: Vitamin C Super Serum+
Wrinkles are one thing but they’re not the only skin gripe we have to deal with as we get older. Dark spots, aka hyperpigmentation, are also a thing and they’re caused by an overproduction of melanin which happens as a result of too much sun, acting-out hormones or some kind of skin trauma like acne or a burn.
Sounds familiar, then add Vitamin C Super Serum+ to cart right this minute! Why? Because vitamin C was born to help fade existing dark spots and prevent new ones from forming. This highly powered serum also blends retinol for extra anti-aging prowess, plus niacinamide to soothe and hyaluronic acid to hydrate. Word is, it’s so good, you probably only need to apply it a few times a week.
The Overnight Rescue Remedy: Retinol Facial Serum
What kind of skincare company would we be if we didn’t have a retinol serum? Thankfully, we’re not those people. Say hello to Retinol Facial Serum which combines this anti-aging heavy-hitter with hyaluronic acid, vitamin E, glycerin and aloe to help counteract and balance the strength of retinol. Contrary to popular belief, retinol is perfectly fine to apply morning and night but we prefer to save it for bedtime. How so? Well, retinol is ideal for helping your skin to regenerate as you sleep plus saving it for nighttime means you get to use a completely different serum in the morning, ha!
The Skin Harmonizer: Niacinamide (B3) Facial Serum
Another one of our winning all-rounders, Niacinamide (B3) Facial Serum is the absolute nuts for treating a whole bunch of skin types and concerns. Along with vitamins C and E, niacinamide is an effective antioxidant that works hard to help your skin neutralize damaging free radicals. It’s also fantastic at balancing sebum, calming inflammation and increasing the production of ceramides in the uppermost layers to help maintain a strong, protective barrier and more resilient skin.
The Skin Firming Friend: Peptide Facial Serum
Peptides are often talked about in skincare but they can be hard to get your head around. All you really need to know is that, like proteins, they’re chemical compounds made up of amino acids. Because of their similarity to proteins, studies show that peptides are able to penetrate the skin really well, signaling your cells to produce more collagen – undoubtedly the skin’s most important protein of all.
Proteins are key if you want to maintain firmer, smoother and more lifted skin, so it figures that anything you can do to boost collagen, elastin and keratin (all proteins in their own right) is a major plus for the look and feel of your skin. Peptide Facial Serum is just the job here, not only targeting your skin’s essential proteins but also helping to strengthen, hydrate and tone your complexion.
The 10 Best Facial Serums For All Types Of Mature Skin
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