The powers of retinol should never be underestimated, and to successfully reap its rewards you need to know what you’re dealing with. Good news: we can help with that…
Retinol, we do love it. But it’s not always been that way. In fact it’s taken us many years to get to know retinol and understand exactly how it ticks. From starting too big (and instantly regretting it) to avoiding it for years thinking it was only for ‘old’ people, most of us can hold our hands up and admit to making the odd retinol mistake in our time, right?
The truth is, retinol can be a mysterious little beast. It’s one of the most clinically tested and proven ingredients for improving the quality of your skin. Yet, it’s also one of the trickiest to get to grips with. So, if you’re just starting out on the road to regular retinol use, a) congratulations, you won’t regret it and b) don’t make the same mistakes we did. Instead, learn from them and wise up.
Keep scrolling for the answers to the most important, need-to-know retinol questions…
Q: What Is Retinol?
A: Retinol is part of a group of topical vitamin A derivatives called retinoids. Heard about the likes of retinyl palmitate and retinoic acid? They’re also part of this same retinoid family.
Retinoic acid is the active form of vitamin A and the only one that actually works on your skin, but don’t throw away your retinol serum just yet because this is where things get interesting. Retinoic acid is extremely potent and only available by prescription, so it can be drying, irritating and unsuitable for many skin types. And this is where its gentler retinol cousin comes into the equation.
Retinol is an over-the-counter version of retinoic acid which essentially does the same thing, but must first be converted into retinoic acid before it can get to work. This makes it way less potent and much more tolerated by the skin. In our opinion, it’s the best of both worlds.
Q: How Does Retinol Benefit The Skin?
A: Well first, let’s get one thing straight: contrary to popular belief, retinol is not an exfoliant. Yes, it boosts cell turnover and encourages collagen production, similar to an exfoliating product, but it works in a different way. While exfoliants sweep away dead skin cells by breaking down the bonds that glue them together, retinol works on a deeper level, stimulating the metabolism of stronger, healthier skin cells and supporting the natural shedding of the skin.
Retinol works in many ways to improve the appearance of your skin. First up, it helps prevents collagen degradation which results in thicker, plumper skin and less visible fine lines and wrinkles. It also speeds up the process of cell turnover which naturally slows down as you age – cue fresher, brighter-looking skin; less dark spots; cleaner, clearer pores and a consequent reduction in breakouts (whoop!).
Finally, retinol gets even more bonus points for being an antioxidant which means it works hard to neutralize free radicals and thus limit oxidative damage from environmental nasties like UV, pollution, a poor diet and smoking. As you all know, these are best avoided if you want to halt the signs of aging skin for as long as possible.
Q: When Should You Start Using Retinol?
A: In all honesty, this depends on your skin type. Experts used to agree that around age 30 was the best starting point for including retinol in your skincare routine, but it’s since gone down to your mid-twenties. Why? Because this is when your collagen and elastin supplies start to decrease, so giving them a kick up the butt as soon as possible is a very wise move.
Getting a head start in your twenties is also a great idea if you have thin skin that’s started to show the first signs of lines and wrinkles, or if you have textural acne scarring or a history of being a little ‘careless’ in the sun. However, if you have healthy skin, your thirties should be early enough.
The main point is not to get bogged down on the exact minute to start applying retinol. Start when you feel ready, then know that once you’re in, you’re in it for the long term.
Q: What’s The Best Way To Add Retinol To Your Skincare Routine?
A: One word: SLOWLY. Retinol can cause redness, dryness, flaking and irritation if you go in with all guns blazing. So don’t do that. Instead, follow these important rules…
- Always patch test any new retinol product on a small area of skin before using it all over. This will determine how tolerant your skin is to a certain formulation and help you avoid any harsh side effects. And if your skin doesn’t like it? Don’t use it. Simple as that.
- Introduce retinol into your routine very slowly. We recommend starting off with two or three times a week, then build up to daily use as your skin acclimates. This will help reduce irritation and sensitivities. Just remember, if your skin is sensitive, skip retinol on the days you exfoliate to avoid over-stimulating your skin.
- Feel like you’re not getting on with retinol and that your skin’s getting worse, rather than better? This could just be your skin purging itself of oil and bacteria – a sign that your product is doing its job! Don’t worry, this is temporary and should only last a few weeks.
- Apply a high, broad-spectrum sunscreen every morning. All those fresh skin cells can make your skin sensitive to sunlight so it’s imperative to protect it. Try our awesome SPF 30 Mineral Sunscreen as the last part of your morning routine.
- Finally, don’t expect miracles overnight. It takes months for the benefits of retinol to really show up. Patience is key.
Q: Should You Only Apply Retinol At Night?
A: Here’s the thing, retinol doesn’t cause sun damage. Sure, it helps remove dead skin cells to reveal fresher, more vulnerable skin, but this is a good thing for your complexion, and as long as you protect your skin with broad-spectrum SPF, you’re OK to apply retinol day and night.
That being said, retinol has been shown to break down when exposed to sunlight and air. And this is the reason it’s often encouraged for night time use only. Penny. Drops. But again, if you apply a good sunscreen over the top of your retinol product, it can used as a very effective daytime treatment.
