Squalene Vs Squalane: What’s The Difference?
Squalene, squalane… tomayto, tomahto. Actually, stop right there, because that one letter makes more of a difference than you might think. (Just to be clear, we’re talking about the skincare ingredient, not your favorite salad ingredient…)
By now you’re probably well versed in the likes of retinol, tretinoin, peptides and hyaluronic acid. But squalene and squalane? These two are a whole different ballgame. For starters, the words look and sound almost EXACTLY THE SAME, but the ingredients themselves? Not so much. Now, if we didn’t know better, we’d think those science bods were doing everything in their powers to confuse us. But they have better things to do than worry about confused skincare fans wondering what on earth squalene and squalane are...
And thankfully, that’s why we’re here.
So, what’s the connection between squalene and squalane and how are they different? OK, here we go…
What Is Squalene With An ‘E’?
In the red corner we have squalene, a naturally-produced polyunsaturated hydrocarbon that makes up around 12-13 percent of your skin’s sebum. Don’t worry about the polyunsaturated thingamajig bit. Just know that squalene is a lipid found in the oil that helps keep your skin moisturized and hydrated by preventing transepidermal water loss (TEWL), as well as protecting it from environmental damage. So, yes, it’s kind of important. Actually, it’s really important.
Like most of the good stuff in your skin (think collagen, hyaluronic acid and co.), your levels of squalene deplete with age, which is why skin generally feels drier, rougher and more dehydrated after the age of around 30. And this is where skincare steps in, hoping to replace all the squalene your skin loses with topical squalene that’s been sourced by other means.
This is where the problem lies. Unfortunately, as a skincare ingredient, squalene is rather unstable, meaning it oxidizes and becomes pretty useless when it’s exposed to air. Another black mark is that, historically, it was harvested from shark liver oil because this particular squalene was shown to closely mimic our own. Thankfully, it can now be sourced from plants like olives, rice bran, sugar cane and wheat germ, but still, its instability and short shelf-life remain.
What Is Squalane With An ‘A’?
The reason squalane and squalene are so alike is because the former is a derivative of the latter. For fear of getting too sciencey on you, squalane is a hydrogenated type of squalene. Hydrogenation means hydrogen has been added to it to make it less likely to react with oxygen. This process not only makes squalane a much more stable emollient than squalene, but it also creates a softer, lighter and more user-friendly version of this skin-moisturizing lipid.
More good news: squalane is just as effective as squalene. Group hug.
What Are The Benefits Of Squalene And Squalane?
Both have similar moisturizing benefits, and they’re ideal for all, as they’re very well tolerated by most skin types. They’re great for dry and mature skin, but equally as effective if you have oily or acne-prone skin. Because they help heal and fortify the skin’s barrier function and reduce TEWL, they’re also often a go-to for relieving symptoms associated with conditions like psoriasis and eczema.
So, As A Skincare Ingredient, Is Squalane The Best Option?
Yes and no. For sure, squalane is more user-friendly and has a longer shelf-life, but it can still be sourced from shark liver oil, so don’t think it’s always the innocent party here. Some people believe squalane is only ever derived from plants, while squalene is the bad guy that’s always harvested from deep sea sharks. Not true. To reiterate, they can both unethically come from sharks and, unless a skincare company tells you otherwise, you should always presume the worst. Why so? Because a.) plant-derived squalene and squalane are around 30 percent more expensive to source and manufacture than the shark alternatives, and b.) unfortunately, the whole sorry business is, as yet, unregulated. Sigh.
How To Make The Right Choice
Always scrutinize your products’ ingredient lists and look out for phrases like ‘100 percent plant-derived’, ‘vegan-friendly’, ‘cruelty-free’ or ‘vegetable-based.’ And if it’s still not clear, contact the manufacturer to demand full disclosure. No BS.
Better yet, stick with us! We use sustainable squalane extracted from olive oil across all our skincare products because we care about the world we live in and don’t mind spending a little extra in order to look after our oceans and climate. Check out our Hyaluronic Acid Eye Cream and Vitamin C Super Serum+ and you’ll see ‘olive oil squalane’ sitting right there among all the other awesome, plant-powered ingredients.
Simple solution, right there.
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![What Is Salicylic Acid And Does Your Skin Need It?]()
Salicylic acid is right up there with glycolic acid for exfoliating your skin. But it also has an extra string in its bow. Listen up, oily skin folks, this one’s for you…
Salicylic acid is one of those ingredients that truly delivers. Forget your snail mucus and 24k gold flakes because they simply don’t live up to the hype. Along with skincare greats like retinol and vitamin C, however, salicylic acid does exactly what it sets out to do. And frankly, that’s all you can ask from a skincare ingredient, is it not?
If you’re not sure what salicylic acid is all about, not a problem, that’s what we’re here for.
So, read on for everything we know about salicylic acid: glycolic acid’s equally as effective, but really quite different cousin…
What Is Salicylic Acid, Exactly?
You’ve heard of AHAs and BHAs, right? Well, salicylic acid sits in the BHA camp. In fact, it’s really the only BHA you need to know about being the single most common BHA used in skincare and cosmetics.
BHAs, or beta-hydroxy acids are fat-soluble chemical exfoliants that break down the bonds between your skin cells to encourage them to slough away more efficiently. Physical scrubs have the same effect, but they use physical pressure alongside grains or textured surfaces to exfoliate your skin. Chemical exfoliants just harness the powers of acids like salicylic to do the same job, improving cellular turnover as a major part of the deal.
Salicylic acid, in particular, is extracted from the bark of willow trees and has amazing exfoliating benefits. But there’s more. It also has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial qualities (take that, pimples!) and, because it’s fat-soluble, it has an uncanny knack of penetrating into your pores and getting to work on your sebaceous glands. And that’s a big plus if you have super oily skin you find hard to control…
The Benefits Of Salicylic Acid In Skincare
Exfoliants are a crucial part of a healthy skincare routine. Not only do they boost cell turnover to help give you a smoother, softer and brighter complexion, but they also work hard to improve collagen synthesis. And as you mature, that’s really important since collagen degradation becomes a huge deal as you hit your 30s and beyond.
As we mentioned, however, salicylic acid differs to other water-soluble chemical exfoliants like glycolic, citric and lactic acids. And that’s because it’s fat-soluble which allows it to go deeper below the skin’s surface, penetrating through the lipid layers to really get into the pores. We mean no disrespect to the AHAs of the world, of course, because they’re incredible at what they do – which is to exfoliate at a more surface level. But, if you have oily skin or have trouble with breakouts, blackheads or blocked pores, salicylic acid can offer so much more.
Salicylic acid is almost unbeatable at preventing your pores from becoming clogged with dead skin cells and excess sebum, AND it gently exfoliates your skin by loosening the bonds that hold together those tough, outer layers of dead skin cells. This not only improves the tone and texture of your complexion almost immediately, but it stimulates collagen production helping to stave off premature lines and wrinkles as time goes by.
To summarize, the key benefits of salicylic acid are…
* Exfoliates the skin and removes dead skin cells* Improves cellular turnover* Balances and controls excess sebum* Detoxifies pores* Reduces acne breakouts* Calms inflammation5 Ways To Make Salicylic Acid Work For You
Like most active ingredients, salicylic acid must be given the respect it deserves. Here’s how to use it wisely and effectively...
1. Always Patch Test Salicylic Acid First
Most salicylic acid treatments are well-tolerated by all skin types and safe for daily use. However, there’s always a chance your skin could freak out by this potent, active ingredient, so patch test any new product before applying it regularly. And yes, we know patch testing sounds like a bit of a headache, but it’s really easy and will only delay your product use by a day or so... but it can save your skin a whole lotta pain.
To patch test your product, apply a small amount to a discreet area of your skin (we like to do it behind an ear). Then leave it for 24-48 hours to check for any negative reactions. Most likely, your skin will be fine other than mild redness or tingling which is to be expected with any active product. However, if you experience anything like burning, discomfort, swelling or itching, stop use immediately – this product is not a good fit for you.
2. Listen To Your Skin To Get Your Routine Right
Once you know you’re safe to use your salicylic acid formulation without any negative reactions, introduce it slowly into your routine. Your skin might be strong enough to take it every day… then again, it might not. Start with once a week and then build on that after a couple of weeks as your skin acclimates. And remember to always read the labels of your products as not all serums are built to be used daily, anyway!
Our Vitamin C Super Serum+, for example, is packed with potent ingredients and combines salicylic acid with other skin superheroes like retinol and vitamin C. Because of this we recommend you apply it just two or three times a week for the best results.
3. Get The Most From Salicylic Acid By Using A Leave-On Treatment
Salicylic acid can be used in pretty much any skincare formulation, from cleansers and toners, through to exfoliants, serums and moisturizers. To really maximize its benefits, however, we believe that leave-on products offer far superior results to anything you’re going to wash down the plughole. It’s common sense, right?
On that note, try our 6% AHA, BHA + PHA Liquid Exfoliant which is everything for brighter, clearer, smoother-looking skin. Apply it to clean skin, before your serum and moisturizer.
4. Combine It With Tea Tree Oil
Our Tea Tree Super Serum+ blends salicylic acid with tea tree oil to really hit breakouts from all angles.
Tea tree oil is extracted from the leaves of the Australian tea tree and it has awesome anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial benefits making it a shoo-in for helping to calm facial redness at a surface level. Meanwhile, salicylic acid goes deeper to improve cell turnover and help remove excess oil and dirt that can block your pores in the first place. Together they’re truly dynamite. What’s more, our serum has been crafted to be as gentle as possible while still providing all the benefits you could ever want.
As we said, dynamite.
5. Use Sunscreen Every Morning
All experts agree (us, dermatologists, the FDA, need we go on?) that salicylic acid must be used in conjunction with a broad-spectrum sunscreen in order to help protect the skin and avoid sensitivities to UV radiation. It’s basically non-negotiable, so make sure sunscreen is as much a part of your morning routine as cleaning your teeth and brushing your hair.
We like to keep our SPF30 Mineral Sunscreen with Vitamin C right there on the shelf next to our serums and eye cream. That way, we never forget.
What Is Salicylic Acid And Does Your Skin Need It?
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