What You Should Know Before Using Retinol For The First Time
Retinol is great. Irritation, redness and dry skin from misuse of this potent ingredient? Not so great.
If you’re interested in skincare, we imagine you’ll have read about retinol many times before. But reading about it and using it to great effect are two very different stories.
You see, retinol is not to be underestimated. Its potency, for which it is adored and revered by dermatologists and beauty experts all over the world, is both its superpower… and its downfall. And if you’re yet to try it, that’s probably the reason you’re so nervous. Yes, you’d love a piece of all that skin-replenishing goodness. However, the potential for irritation far outweighs its potential benefits.
Well, we think that’s a real shame. Because for all its strength, retinol really can be tolerated by almost all skin types and is a powerful weapon against the visible signs of aging and acne breakouts.
But only if you use it wisely, of course.
So, if you’re thinking of taking the plunge with retinol, but need a little reassurance and a few pointers to help you along the way, read on for the most important tips for first-timers…
1. Start Off With A Gentle Formulation
Retinol is part of the retinoid family which also includes other topical vitamin A derivatives such as tretinoin, Retin-A and other retinyl esters. Certain retinoids are only available by prescription and are extremely potent (hence the prescription!), but retinol itself is much weaker and readily available in low-percentage, OTC skincare formulations.
This is good news for first-timers because slightly weaker ingredients at lower percentages are going to be much kinder to your skin. If you’re still nervous, however, try bakuchiol instead of retinol. This wonder-ingredient is nature’s gentle alternative to retinol, offering very similar benefits with much fewer side-effects – if any. So, if you want to start off with the gentlest option possible, we recommend going for bakuchiol over retinol, hands down. And we have a whole range to try, right here.
2. Patch Test First
Patch testing any new product that contains active ingredients is important, but with retinol it’s absolutely crucial.
To do this, simply apply a small amount to a discreet area of your skin – behind the ear, at the back of your neck or on your inner arm – then wait 24-48 hours for signs of sensitivity. A little redness or tingling is fine, but anything that feels uncomfortable or looks super red and angry is a tell-tale sign that this particular retinol product is not for you. It doesn’t mean all retinol is off the table, but you might want to try something more suitable for sensitive skin. One word: bakuchiol!
3. Introduce Retinol Slowly Into Your Routine
If you start using retinol every day from the off you could live to regret it. So, after you’ve patch tested and been given the green light by non-irritated skin, start using your retinol product slowly at first.
Begin your retinol routine just once or twice a week to see how your skin reacts. Do this for a week or so then, if all is well, you can gradually build up to every day. And if things start to get too much? No problem, just reduce your usage back down again. It’s very easy to find your sweet spot if you just listen to your skin.
4. Always Apply Retinol To Dry Skin
Applying serums and moisturizers to damp skin can be a great way to seal in extra moisture. However, damp skin is also thought to absorb products quicker and deeper which is great… until your skin freaks out.
To avoid any risk of irritation, allow your skin to dry fully before applying your retinol product.
5. Alternate Retinol With Other Active Ingredients
Retinol plays well with calming, hydrating and soothing ingredients like hyaluronic acid, aloe, green tea and vitamin E which is why you’ll find all of those beauties in our awesome Retinol Facial Serum. But it’s not friends with everything so be extra careful with active ingredients in the rest of your skincare routine.
Instead of piling on potent formulations all at once, we recommend alternating them. Try your retinol serum one night, for example, and then an exfoliating lotion like AHA, BHA + PHA Liquid Exfoliant or your favorite vitamin C serum the next. By doing this, you’ll limit irritation but still reap all of the goodness of some of the most effective skincare ingredients out there.
6. Don’t Forget To Moisturize
The thing most people hate about retinol? Dry, peeling skin. But this all part of the beauty of retinol doing its job, purging your skin while improving cellular turnover and encouraging all those dulling dead skin cells to beat it so you're left with a fresher, healthier-looking complexion.
This purging process usually only lasts around two to four weeks, but it’s no time to stop moisturizing or any other such nonsense. In fact, moisturizer is going to be your BFF right now so ensure you apply it morning and night after your facial serum. We also recommend going super gentle with your cleansing routine to strengthen your skin’s barrier function and help avoid further moisture loss. Try our Soothing Cleansing Milk which is a real winner for dry or sensitive skin.
And if you still find certain parts of your face are becoming drier and more flaky than others? Avoid applying retinol to these areas for a bit. Or only apply it once a week. Again, it’s all about listening to your skin and understanding what it does and doesn’t like.
7. Use SPF Every Morning
Although retinol doesn’t cause your skin to burn it does break down and become less effective when it’s exposed to sunlight. This is why it’s best used at night.
However, you STILL need to apply sunscreen every morning because all those fresh new skin cells require looking after. And subjecting them to hours of damaging UV radiation is not the way to go about that.
Apply Vitamin C Facial Serum in the morning for extra antioxidant safe-guarding, followed by SPF 30 Mineral Sunscreen with Vitamin C. We call this the ultimate sun protective power couple.
8. Finally, Don’t Give Up
One of the most important things to remember is that retinol takes time to work, so don’t expect to see results overnight. Most OTC retinol formulations require at least three, preferably six months for the true benefits to come to light.
Be patient and you’ll be rewarded in the end.
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![What Happens To Your Pores As You Age?]()
Do you feel like your already-supersized-pores are growing by the minute? They're not. But it might feel like they are...
Pores are the foundation of healthy skin. Of course, collagen makes your skin strong, supple and plump. And yes, elastin gives it that all-important bouncebackability. But without pores, your skin would be a dry, shrivelled up shadow of its former self. Not to mention the fact that your entire body would lose its ability to regulate its own body temperature.
As a quick reminder, pores are tiny, microscopic openings found at the surface of your skin right at the top of your hair follicles and sweat glands. They exist to allow important liquids (as well as other particles and gases) to pass through the surface of your skin. The human body has two types of pores: sweat pores which help regulate body temperature; and oil-producing pores that are found at the top of your hair follicles where they release sebum to moisturize and lubricate the surface of the skin. The good thing about sweat pores is that they’re so small you can’t see them making them of very little concern in the grand scheme of things.
Oil-producing pores, on the other hand, are just so annoyingly visible. So why?
What Determines The Size Of Your Pores?
Like your height, skin tone and color of your hair, the size of your pores is largely shaped by genetics. This means that yes, you can blame your parents, and yes, the size of your pores is pretty much fixed.
Of course, this is great news if you have almost invisible pores. Not so much if yours feel like they take over your entire face. But let’s get one thing straight: no matter how enlarged you believe your pores are when you study them in the mirror, they’re rarely as bad as you think. Because the truth is, nobody else scrutinizes your skin on the same level as do you.
Do Pores Get Bigger Over Time?
Yes and no. The size of your pores never really changes on a physiological level. So yes, all those half-truths about being able to ‘shrink’ your pores with alcohol-heavy toners or freezing cold water is a bit of a con. But there’s a little bit of truth in there because while the actual size of your pores doesn’t alter, their walls can stretch and expand, making them appear more pronounced.
Penny drops.
What Causes Pores To Stretch With Age?
Many things happen to your skin throughout your life that can cause the walls of your pores to become damaged and loose. Of course, regular aging plays the most obvious role as your collagen levels naturally decrease over time. Sadly, there’s not a huge amount you can do about your biological clock (there’s those genes doing their worst again!) but there are many other factors of which you can control that contribute to the rate at which your pores become slack.
Sun Damage
Gosh, the sun gets blamed for a lot of skin issues. But we don’t apologize for that because it really is one of the worst things for the condition of your skin. UV radiation breaks down important proteins like collagen and elastin thanks to a build-up of free radicals. This weakens the collagen fibers that give your skin its structure, thus allowing the walls of your pores to become slack, weak and kind of baggy-looking. AKA more visible!
Picking Your Skin
If you have a tendency to pick or squeeze your skin, this not only irritates your skin as a whole, but it can seriously mess with the collagen and elastin fibers that keep your skin firm and supple. Scarring is the most obvious possibility from picking your skin, but you pores will also suffer as a consequence.
Excess Sebum
After puberty sebum production usually levels out to a somewhat more ‘normal’ rate. However, things can get messy again during significant hormonal changes in your life. Menstruation, pregnancy, the menopause, all of these periods in your life cause your hormones to become unbalanced and your sebum levels to fluctuate. And when sebum production increases it fills up your pores causing them to expand, stretch and appear bigger.
Slow Cell Turnover
When you’re in your 20s each skin cell has a life cycle of around 28 days in which time it is formed at the lower levels, moves up to the surface and then sheds. As with most biological functions, however, cell turnover slows down as you mature, causing dead cells to hang around longer than necessary at the surface of your skin. Like excess sebum, these dead cells have nowhere else to go but to clog up your pores. And clogged pores = saggy, enlarged-looking pores.
Bad Makeup Choices
Certain foundations and face cosmetics that contain heavy oils and thick butters can also block your pores, causing them to expand and become more noticeable. Make sure you scan the labels of your favorite makeup formulations to ensure they’re non-comedogenic. Non-comedogenic means they’re way less likely to block your pores (comedone is the fancy term for pore, if you didn’t know).
The Best Ways To Keep Your Pores Tight
After reading the above you can probably guess what you need to do to avoid your pores becoming damaged and saggy. But we’ll lay it out for you anyway, just to drive the point home!
1. First up, wear sunscreen. This is the best thing you can do to conserve the collagen you’ve already got while ensuring you’re still making quality fresh stuff. Apply SPF 30 Mineral Sunscreen with Vitamin C every morning as par for the course, and do your skin even more of a solid by doubling up your protection with an antioxidant serum underneath sunscreen. Niacinamide is a very good ingredient for smoother, more resilient skin so try our Niacinamide (B3) Facial Serum.
2. Don’t pick your skin. Pimples or no pimples. Nothing good can come of this.
3. Balance sebum by gently cleansing and lightly moisturizing your skin come what may. It’s super important to keep your skin clean morning and night so that oils don’t build up at the surface. We love Tea Tree Super Cleanser+ which harnesses the power of tea tree oil to clarify the skin without leaving it feeling parched. Just remember, it’s equally as vital to follow with moisturizer so your skin doesn’t think it’s dry and overcompensate with more oil than you started with!
4. Exfoliate to boost cellular turnover. But don’t overdo it. Listen to your skin and exfoliate just once or twice a week if that’s all it needs. Our Vitamin C Gentle Face Scrub (which just won an industry award may we add!) is a fantastic way to keep your skin bright, clean and dead skin cell-free. Plus, it’s kind to your skin. Which is super important, at any age.
5. Finally, don't underestimate the powers of retinol. Retinol is an incredible way to boost collagen AND encourage healthy cellular turnover. That's great news for your pores. And for controlling acne. And for reducing the appearance of wrinkles. And... well, you get the picture. Try our classic Retinol Facial Serum once or twice a week to begin with, building up to nightly as your skin acclimates.
What Happens To Your Pores As You Age?
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