Let’s Talk Retinol: Your Questions Answered
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Retinol opens up a whole world of confusion for some people. But when it comes to proven anti-aging skincare ingredients it gives us all the feels.
That’s why knowing what it is and, more importantly how to make it work for you, well, that knowledge is priceless. Not sure of the difference between retinol and retinoic acid? Wondering whether a topical retinoid is OK for your super-sensitive skin? Then get comfy, because we have all the answers to your most pressing questions, right here.
Q: First things first, what are retinoids?
A: Retinoids are active, topical forms of vitamin A that can be split into two camps: retinol and tretinoin.
Vitamin A is a fat-soluble vitamin found naturally in eggs, yellow and orange fruit and veggies, liver, fish, cheese and butter. It’s an essential part of a well-balanced diet and helps maintain healthy cell growth while boosting your vision and reproductive and immune systems.
The active form (the one that does all the good stuff) of vitamin A is called retinoic acid and its topical counterpart is called tretinoin. Tretinoin is a clever little prescription-only ingredient that delivers retinoic acid to the skin to stimulate healthy cell turnover for a glowing, more youthful complexion.
Retinol, meanwhile, is an over-the-counter, gentler version of tretinoin that biochemically does the same thing, but must be converted into retinoic acid by the skin before it can get to work. Studies have shown that retinol is 20 times less potent that tretinoin, but it’s considerably kinder on the complexion which why it’s every beauty editor’s/derm’s/celebrity’s favorite anti-aging ingredient.
Still confused? Then just remember this, retinol is the tortoise to tretinoin’s hare.
Q: What are the benefits of using a topical retinoid?
A: When absorbed by the skin, retinoic acid molecules attach themselves to the center of cells where genetic information is stored. Here, they trigger and activate certain genes to increase collagen production and stimulate the skin to turnover more efficiently. This not only helps soften, thicken and plump up the skin but offers no end of benefits for enlarged pores, acne, pigmentation and aging skin.
Research also shows that retinoids have powerful antioxidant properties, which is why many people call them the ultimate miracle-workers. We, on the other hand prefer not to subscribe to such bold promises. Let’s just say they’re up there with the most proven and effective skincare ingredients, shall we?
Q: So, does that mean tretinoin is better than retinol?
A: Yes and no. Tretinoin is only available on prescription and is often advised to patients who are serious about treating fine lines, wrinkles and discolorations. Derms and doctors see tretinoin as the gold standard of retinoids because it’s so pure, but it packs such a retinoic acid punch that it can be hard to tolerate – especially if you have sensitive skin.
This is why we truly believe that over-the-counter products are the cat’s whiskers. Retinol can be just as effective as tretinoin, as long as you shop wisely and are happy to play the long game. Derivatives of retinol such as retinyl palmitate, retinyl propionate, retinyl acetate and retinyl linoleate are super weak and, in our opinion, not worth it. But choose formulas that contain pure retinol and while visible results may take a little longer, you’ll see just as many benefits as you would from a tretinoin product.
Q: If I start using a retinoid regularly, how long will it be before I see improvements in my skin?
A: Tretinoin usually offers visible results at around the three month mark. Retinol, due to its gentler nature, however, may take up to six. The good thing is that retinoids are among the most highly researched ingredients in skincare and show proven, visible results. Unlike other headline-grabbing ingredients that promise the world but fail to deliver, retinoids have been tried and tested for decades. And they work. They just do. But patience is a virtue.
Q: What’s the best way to use topical retinoid?
A: Great question. Retinoids are best used at night because sunlight can deactivate vitamin A. Nighttime use is also advised to reduce any dryness and redness you may experience from the sun. Contrary to popular belief, retinoids themselves are not sun sensitizing, but they do thin the very top layer of your skin to help rid your complexion of pore-clogging dead skin cells. This is a good thing, but it also disrupts the natural protective barrier which is why you should apply it at night, then in the morning wear a daily, broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or above.
Another tip is to start slowly. Most derms agree you should begin with a low concentration of retinol such as 0.5-1.0 percent. Apply it to clean skin every other night to begin with, then as your skin acclimates you can up your application to every night. After a few months, you could also move up to a higher concentration as tolerated. And if your skin feels dry? Then feel free to layer your favorite moisturizer on top.
Q: Is it true you should never apply retinol to damp skin?
A: In a word, no. There’s no real evidence to suggest that applying retinol to damp or wet skin will intensify skin irritation. Nor will it render the ingredient more or less effective. More importantly, you should ensure your skin is clean and well prepped before applying your retinol product. Cleanse thoroughly and gently exfoliate any dry, flaky patches to make way for the fresh skin underneath. This helps the active ingredient penetrate your skin which actually reduces irritation.
Q: Speaking of which, my skin became really dry and irritated after introducing retinol into my skincare routine, should I stop?
A: Dryness, flaking and slight redness are part of what’s called the purging process, so don’t worry, this is very normal. Skin purging is just your skin reacting to the active retinol which accelerates the exfoliation process and promotes skin cells to turnover quicker than normal. This is great for the health, look and feel of your skin in the long run, but can temporarily exacerbate redness, irritation and scaling.
The good news, however, is these side-effects are temporary so try to push through them. There are also a few tricks to help you avoid them in the first place. First, slowly introduce retinol into your routine to allow your skin to adjust – and yes, once a week is OK. Then you can up the frequency by one day per week as your skin becomes more tolerant. If the irritation continues or gets worse, take your usage back down again and/or try a super-low concentration – we’re talking 0.5 or even 0.3 percent.
Still struggling? Then speak to a skincare expert because retinol might not be for you. There are plenty of other effective skincare ingredients that are more tolerable for sensitive skin like niacinamide, aloe vera or hyaluronic acid.
Q: Can I use retinol with other active skincare ingredients like vitamin C?
A: Combining active skincare ingredients can sometimes have disastrous effects if left in the wrong hands. But that is the key because if you know what you’re doing or better still, leave it to the experts, the results from ingredient cocktailing can be glorious.
Take retinol and vitamin C, for example. Studies have shown that, together, this little power couple offers visible benefits to aging skin such as an improvement in texture and tone, plus a notable reduction in photodamage – aka hyperpigmentation. Retinol and vitamin C are both proven antioxidants and work well to defend the skin against the damaging effects of the sun. We actually combine them with hyaluronic acid and niacinamide in our Vitamin C-Plus Super Serum for a potent, but surprisingly gentle fix of skin-loving actives.
As a side-note, retinol also combines well with AHAs and BHAs like glycolic and salicylic acids. In fact, like John Krasinski and Emily Blunt, they bring out the best in each other to increase turnover and leave you with healthy, glowing skin.
Q: At what age should I start regularly using a retinol product?
A: This depends on each individual because everyone’s skin ages at different rates based on their genes, lifestyle, diet and overall health. Someone living the high-life in the full California sun may find their skin ages at a much faster rate than someone of the same age living in less sunnier climes, for example. That being said, most experts agree that somewhere in your mid to late 20s is ideal, but you know your skin and it’s never too early (nor too late)…
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Fine lines and wrinkles are totally natural, but if you want to lessen their impact, you might want to take a look at some of these seemingly innocent lifestyle habits.
We’ve lost count of the number of times we’ve warned you about the perils of the sun and its effect on the number and intensity of your wrinkles. Ditto for stress, smoking and a lack of sleep. But while these things are up there as the most common culprits of aging skin – the sun being the number one offender, of course – there are plenty of other everyday lifestyle habits you probably didn’t realize were affecting the rate at which your skin aged.
Obsessed with your Stanley water bottle right now? Well, for one thing, who isn’t? But for another, you might want to rethink that whole drinking-from-a-straw situation once you’ve read the rest of this article. You have been warned…
Drinking From A Straw
One of the main reasons smoking is so bad for your skin (toxic chemicals aside) is the repetitive motion of puckering up your lips. How so? Well, this repeated action contracts a ring of muscle around the mouth area called the orbicularis oris muscle. Over time, this causes your skin to lose elasticity. And you know those lines you see when you purse your lips? Instead of going away after you relax your mouth, they start to become permanently etched in.
Same thing happens if you drink through a straw all day long.
What To Do: As much as we know you love your Stanley Quencher try not to drink out of it 24/7. At home, switch it out for a regular glass and when you’re out and about go for a water bottle that doesn’t have a straw. Oh, and if you get offered a straw when you next order a gin and tonic in a bar, say no. Those fine lines around your lips – as well as the environment – will be forever grateful.
Your Smartphone
What would we do without our digital devices? They are pretty much everything in today’s modern world. And we wouldn’t have it any other way. However, your smartphone, in particular, plays a huge part in the health of your skin. For one thing, constantly looking down while texting, gaming, emailing and browsing can accelerate the formation of creases or bands around the circumference of your neck, aka ‘tech neck.’ Similarly, squinting and frowning at your phone can add even more lines and wrinkles both on your forehead and around your eyes.
Your digital devices also emit something called high-energy visible (HEV) or blue light which studies suggest are just as damaging to your skin as UV light. Blue light not only has the potential to disrupt your skin’s natural barrier function but it can promote inflammation, encourage discoloration and accelerate collagen damage which is a one-way ticket to fine lines and wrinkles.
What To Do: Use your phone less (ha, if only it were that easy!) and always hold it upright so your head isn’t looking down all the time.
You must also try our awesome Longevity skincare range. This collection of three healthy aging products contains lingonberry stems cells which have been shown to help protect your skin from blue light damage.
The Way You Sleep
Getting lots of quality sleep is majorly important for the state of your skin, but skincare experts also agree that the way in which you sleep carries just as much weight on your skin’s aging process. Sleeping on one side, for example, causes creasing on that same side of your face which can increase your chances of developing fine lines on one side more than the other. Similarly, sleeping on your front and smushing your face into your pillow every night creates repeated pressure on your entire face – a sure-fire way to invite fine lines and wrinkles to do their worst.
What To Do: A silk pillowcase can help reduce friction, but your best bet is to change your sleep position so you sleep on your back with your head slightly raised. This avoids repetitive face-to-pillow contact and stops excess fluids from pooling under your eyes which helps stop dark circles and puffiness. Extra bonus right there.
Forgetting To Wear Sunglasses
Squinting is another one-way ticket to fine lines and wrinkles around the eyes as it causes your periocular muscles to repeatedly contract. And if you continue to do this day after day you will soon see exactly what we mean when those cute lines around your eyes turn into deep crevices that just won’t go away. Squinting also contributes to those annoying vertical lines between your eyebrows – glabellar lines or 11s – making it a real no-no if you care about aging skin.
What To Do: Wear shades whenever you go outside – even if it’s bright but not particularly sunny. This’ll immediately stop you squinting and will also protect the skin around your eyes from those damaging UV rays. And if you find yourself squinting at your computer or the TV? Well, it might be time for an eye test. Just saying.
Finally, to help keep the skin around your eyes moisturized and youthful-looking, apply an eye cream morning and night. Try our Peptide Eye Gel which helps support collagen production to minimize premature aging.
Allergies
Do you find yourself continually rubbing the skin around your eyes during the allergy season? This happens when your body’s defense system reacts to an allergen it feels threatened by. Mast cells in your eyes then release chemicals like histamine to try and get rid of these allergens which causes your eyes to become red, watery and itchy.
Allergy triggers can come from many things, including airborne pollen and pet hair, but the worst thing you can do for your skin is to vigorously scrub away at your eyes. This seriously upsets your collagen supplies, thinning your skin, wearing it down and inviting lines around your eyes to do their worst.
What To Do: If your eyes are constantly itching, the most important plan of action is to find out why, so talk to your doctor if symptoms persist. In the meantime, try eye drops and if you can't help but rub your eyes, reduce damage by using just the pads of your ring fingers rather than your whole hand. This will help reduce pressure and friction.
Swimming
We hate to knock any form of exercise but swimming in chlorinated water can be pretty harsh on your skin (and your hair for that matter!). Chlorine is great for sanitizing water and eliminating any contaminants that may otherwise cause infection and illness. But it’s not ideal for your delicate skin. In fact it’s a natural irritant that strips natural oils and moisture from your skin’s protective barrier. This is OK in small doses but if you swim every day and don’t protect your skin, this can potentially cause dryness and dehydration. And two things wrinkles love in order to thrive are dryness and dehydration.
What To Do: A pre-swim shower is a great way to reduce chlorine damage because if your skin is already wet, it will absorb less chlorinated water. Smart huh? Of course, you should also shower immediately after swimming and moisturize all over to replace lost sebum and hydration.
When it comes to your face, apply Vitamin C Facial Serum to fully cleansed skin after swimming. Vitamin C helps neutralize the damaging effects of chlorine. Follow with moisturizer and you should be good.
3 Of Our Favorite Wrinkle-Busting Skincare Products
Because a little help goes a very long way...1. Collagen Boosting Skin Supplement
Want to keep your skin looking its best for as long as possible? Then you simply have to look after your collagen. And what better way than with this daily supplement that’s literally brimming with clinically-proven, collagen-promoting ingredients like vitamin C, acai and biotin.
2. SPF 30 Mineral Sunscreen with Vitamin C
Did we mention that the sun is the biggest culprit when it comes to premature skin aging? We did? Yeah, well, we will continue to do so. We will also continue to laud the benefits of daily, broad-spectrum sunscreen for warding off the sun’s damaging UV rays. And this is an absolute must. No arguments.
One of the most effective anti-aging ingredients in skincare, retinol helps stimulate cell turnover and up your skin’s content of quality collagen. This awesome facial serum also contains hydrating hyaluronic acid (take that wrinkles) and vitamin E (same). We love that for you.
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![The Products We Swear By For Bright, Dewy Skin]()
The truth is, glowing skin will always be in.
Oh, the heady heights of glowing, healthy skin. Whether you prefer to use the term ‘bright,’ ‘glowy,’ ‘dewy’ or ‘radiant’: we can’t think of a single person who wouldn’t want their skin to be described by one (or all!) of these words. Why is it such an elusive and lusted-after skin condition? Because no matter your skin type or how many wrinkles you do or don’t have, nail that radiant glow and everything else pales into insignificance.
But, how to get glowing skin? Now there’s a question that has as many answers as we’ve had hot dinners.
You can start with what goes in your body, of course, taking a look at your diet and ensuring you chow down on plenty of antioxidant-rich fruit and veggies and cut back on things like booze, sugar, salt and processed carbs. This helps nix skin-damaging free radicals to ensure your skin turns over efficiently and remains healthy from the inside out, making it a great place to start.
There are also things like exercising outdoors to get your blood flowing, massaging your skin as you cleanse, getting plenty of shut-eye and faking it with highlighting makeup and shimmering face powders.
But skincare is our thing, so today we’re going to focus on that.
There are many awesome ingredients and products out there that claim to rejuvenate your skin and freshen up your complexion, but what are the true tried and tested contenders? Keep scrolling for, what we believe, are five of the best products for glowing skin.
1. The Definitive Glow-Giving Facial Serum
Let’s get one thing straight, there’s no better skincare ingredient for boosting a radiant glow than vitamin C. Vitamin C (otherwise known as l-ascorbic acid) has been researched to death over the years and it’s been proven to offer all manner of skin-boosting benefits – glowier skin being just one of them.
So how does this powerhouse work? Well, further to its antioxidant powers, which in themselves are great for strengthening your collagen supplies and improving cell turnover, it also helps slow down melanin production. Melanin, as you know, is what gives your skin its individual color and, when you expose your skin to UV radiation, it’s also what makes you tan. However, melanin production isn’t always smooth sailing. In fact, many triggers such as unbalanced hormones and too much sun can make your melanin go all over the place, resulting in patchy skin, dark spots and hyperpigmentation. No fun. No fun at all.
We believe vitamin C should be a staple in anyone’s skincare regime, but we also understand that it’s a potent ingredient that can cause sensitivities in certain skin types. This is why we infuse all of our vitamin C products with a milder version called sodium ascorbyl phosphate.
When it comes to looking for your perfect match for brightening your skin, you could literally take your pick of our entire vitamin C range, but for a classic favorite, you can’t go wrong with Vitamin C Facial Serum. We believe it’s a winner. Over 140,000 people on Amazon agree with us. We rest our case.
2. The Moisturizer With The Most
If you’re yet to try our new Renewing Longevity Moisturizing Cream you are missing out. It doesn’t contain vitamin C – because choices – but it is powered up by another ingredient that’s already making headlines for all the right reasons: bakuchiol.
Bakuchiol is nature’s alternative to the mighty retinol. Extracted from the seeds and leaves of the babchi plant, it’s fast becoming hot property in the skincare world due to its extraordinary skin benefits (just like retinol) and lack of irritating side-effects (unlike retinol!). We mean no offense to retinol, of course, because it’s still one of, if not THE gold standard of skincare. However, it’s not for everyone and bakuchiol has undergone plenty of studies that show it’s right up there, stimulating collagen synthesis and accelerating cellular turnover in a very similar way to rid your skin of unwanted dead skin cells and help improve your radiance factor.
We have a whole collection of products that harness the powers of bakuchiol but for a great introduction to the range, try this deliciously smooth moisturizer that’s ideal for all skin persuasions, including sensitive skin.
3. The One That’s In It For The Long Game
Admittedly this one might not make your skin look immediately radiant but c’mon now, patience is everything. And in all honesty, this is unarguably the single most important product you could use for glowing skin, healthy skin, smooth skin, strong skin, the works.
So what is this too-good-to-be-true product we speak so highly off? Simple. Sunscreen. Now don’t roll your eyes at us in a ‘not that old chestnut’ fashion because we don’t bang on about sunscreen just to pee you off. We do it because we care about your skin.
The simple truth is that if you don’t protect your skin from the sun’s damaging UV rays, your collagen supplies will dwindle, elastin will get destroyed, dark spots will appear and cell turnover will decrease. This all leads to dull, lackluster, sad-looking skin. And that’s just touching the surface.
Ensure you apply a quality, broad-spectrum sunscreen every morning without fail to make sure your skin doesn’t get caught up in all that damaging nonsense.
Try our SPF 30 Mineral Sunscreen which also comes packed with sodium ascorbyl phosphate (that supercool vitamin C derivative we spoke of earlier) on top of hydrating ingredients like squalane and cucumber, plus vegan marine collagen to help target fine lines and sagging skin.
4. The All-Important Skin Exfoliator
If your pores are filled to the brim with sebum, sunscreen, makeup and dead skin cells, your skin stands no chance of being smooth and radiant. Dead skin cells, in particular, create the perfect storm for dull skin.
One of the simplest ways to keep your skin clear from complexion-killing pore plugs is to use a chemical exfoliator like 6% AHA, BHA + PHA Liquid Exfoliant two or three times a week. Chemical exfoliation works by using certain ingredients –commonly fruit acids – to break down the glue that holds dead skin cells together. By doing so, they’re an incredible way of forcing these unwanted cells to sling their hook so that the fresher, brighter ones can make their way to the surface. And unlike physical exfoliation which uses pressure and movement (like scrubs and cleansing brushes), chemical exfoliation, when done correctly, is far less damaging and irritating.
Our fabulous 6% AHA, BHA + PHA Liquid Exfoliant combines a carefully crafted blend of three exfoliating acids along with organic reishi mushroom and hyaluronic acid to combat dehydration and help soothe and nourish the skin. Because, btw, dehydration will also kill your glowy skin vibes.
5. The Dewy Skin Spritz
Convenient and effective, our Ocean Minerals Super Toner is often glossed over in our line-up of skincare greats, but it’s a real goodie in the quest for a revamped complexion. Not only is it formulated with two key skin-brightening players – vitamin C and glycolic acid – but it also contains power-packed peptides, collagen-boosting MSM and over 90 revitalizing marine minerals. All this adds up to some serious love which helps to remove dull, dead skin cells, detox your pores and smooth the surface for a more balanced, even skin tone.
It's an awesome addition to your skincare routine and takes just seconds of your time to apply. So, why not?
Why not indeed.
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